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#1 PICARD

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 04:31 pm

Beginning to wish I'd done these jobs earlier!
Couple of problems....can someone confirm that the drive sprocket nut is conventionally threaded ie anti clockwise to loosen.
Secondly I've got a cross threaded Allen bolt on the sprocket cover (plastic) that I had to drill the head off....although I'm the first owner and have never removed it before...thanks Yama san!!
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#2 dmmsta

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 04:38 pm

From memory Sprocket nut is standard thread...use a good size bit of wood across the swing-arm (through wheel), or a guest fettler standing on rear brake to give you a decent amount of torque.

 

You may also need a long lever bar, or impact driver if it's on there good!


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#3 PICARD

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 05:13 pm

Cheers dmm....oooh....its it's on there good!
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#4 chrisr

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 05:48 pm

You will need a very long breaker bar, and a scaffold pole!
And preferably some help

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#5 PICARD

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 06:32 pm

Got the breaker bar but was thinking of extending it with a good length of steel pipe courtesy of work (borrowed) tomorrow. I love a challenge!!
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#6 fixitsan

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 06:51 pm

If it still doesn't work a cold chisel into one of the points of the nut and a very big hammer, the shock should loosen it. Then a new nut if required

 

In this example a punch is used, but I find a sharpened chisel works well to knock it around works...

 

https://youtu.be/E90IH20he80?t=9m48s


Edited by fixitsan, 15 January 2018 - 06:57 pm.

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#7 thelodger

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 07:16 pm

Don't be tempted to put it in gear to hold the sprocket. 

 

Expect it to loosen with a loud crack ......like " crap , what have I broken ? "

 

Probably one for another thread but it has always puzzled me why manufacturers dont put LH threads on output shafts then sprocket retaining nuts wouldn't come loose would they!  



#8 Swarf

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 08:06 am

Probably one for another thread but it has always puzzled me why manufacturers dont put LH threads on output shafts then sprocket retaining nuts wouldn't come loose would they!  


It would actually. You have to imagine the output shaft as a bolt being screwed into a stationary nut to see the forces involved. Interestingly that's come up lately with rear wheel spindles on the Facebook Tdm page, three bikes have all broken the drive side chain adjuster plate which has allowed the wheel to skew to the offside. All three had the spindles inserted from the nearside (correct to parts diagrams) whereas ordinarily it would be inserted from the offside in conventional machinery design.

#9 thelodger

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 09:54 am

Hi Swarf

 

Hadn't really thought of it like that until you said it. So , to be clear, the conventional RH thread nut is being tightened by the rotation of the

shaft ( rather than being loosened ) ?



#10 PICARD

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 02:58 pm

Here's a tip for anyone who needs to remove the front sprocket after stupidly dismantling the whole rear end of the bike....(who'd do a thing like that?).....put a bar through the Swing arm pivot holes between the chain runs. Screwdriver through links, and go at the nut with a breaker bar and socket........worked for someone I know.
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#11 Swarf

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 03:41 pm

Hi Swarf
 
Hadn't really thought of it like that until you said it. So , to be clear, the conventional RH thread nut is being tightened by the rotation of the
shaft ( rather than being loosened ) ?

Yep, that's it. If the output shaft was on the offside of the bike then a left hand thread would be correct.

(Sorry for the hijack, Captain!!)

Edited by Swarf, 16 January 2018 - 03:41 pm.


#12 Hombre

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 05:44 pm

Just did this on my 04 Niner at 33,000Km and sprockets were OEM.  RH thread nut is correct.  Tightening torque only 85Nm (threads clean).  Release torque felt similar.  Bike on centre stand and missus on brake pedal.  Rear wheel spindle torque to nut is much more at 150Nm.


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#13 jono49

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:45 pm

For jobs like this your best mate is one with an impact gun!......Air or Electric!!!!!

 

Invest in one of these yourself it'll alway's be there for you as it's 240v!!! battery ones are a waist of time as you would hardly ever use it....."Would You" and it would be flat when you went to use it!

With 450nm of torque it'll be all you need for the most stubborn nut/bolt :good:

 

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#14 steve27bha

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:50 pm

..... All three had the spindles inserted from the nearside (correct to parts diagrams)....

I have a 2002 parts catalogue and a 2007 shop manual for the 900, both by Yamaha, and they both show the rear axle inserted from the right / offside with the nut on the left beside the sprocket.

 

Not only is that correct based on the engineering you quote but it means a socket set handle / torque wrench or even a spanner can get in to tighten the nut without the OE silencer getting in the way


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#15 Swarf

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 07:08 am

Yeah, the 900 and possibly the 4tx parts diagrams show them the correct way but for some reason some 3vd drawings are reversed. Only bike I've ever had that's shown it that way, needless to say mine isn't done to the drawing.....

#16 drewpy

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 12:32 pm

For jobs like this your best mate is one with an impact gun!......Air or Electric!!!!!

 

Invest in one of these yourself it'll alway's be there for you as it's 240v!!! battery ones are a waist of time as you would hardly ever use it....."Would You" and it would be flat when you went to use it!

With 450nm of torque it'll be all you need for the most stubborn nut/bolt :good:

 

https://www.ebay.co....675.c100623.m-1

 

I got an air impact  gun from Aldi, brill and made short work of any stubbornness, although for some reason it didn't work on the missus.


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#17 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 03:22 pm

Mk1 has a castellated nut with a split pin and the nut is on the right-hand side. :)  Even shows up on the cover of the Haynes manuel.


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#18 PICARD

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 05:30 pm

I got an air impact  gun from Aldi, brill and made short work of any stubbornness, although for some reason it didn't work on the missus.



Got one of those and as you say, it does a good job, but my compressor works at only 8bar and wouldn't touch the sprocket nut. Anyway .... happy ending. Just got to shift 10 years worth of Scott and various other chain lubes now. Deep joy.
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#19 Catteeclan

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 08:43 pm

That's 120 psi, (almost) and should be enough for most air guns. :huh:


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#20 PICARD

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 06:32 am

Don't know what Nm the gun is rated at, but it just stopped when confronted with the sprocket nut. Works fine on most other jobs
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