95 replies to this topic

[fixitsan]

I've just updated the response rate to changes in light level.

The brightness of the DRL's are set based on the assumption that the lowest ambient light level of the past 5 seconds is the preffered level to use. This means that when entering a tunnel from daylight the lights will dim immediately, but then will not respond to the short duration increase in light as you pass under a light within the tunnel.

[Favs]

I've just updated the response rate to changes in light level.

The brightness of the DRL's are set based on the assumption that the lowest ambient light level of the past 5 seconds is the preffered level to use. This means that when entering a tunnel from daylight the lights will dim immediately, but then will not respond to the short duration increase in light as you pass under a light within the tunnel.

 

Hi Fixitsan - whats happening with your aux lamp controller?

[fixitsan]

 

Hi Fixitsan - whats happening with your aux lamp controller?

 

 

All excuses aside I've been a lazy git on top !

 

I ordered a BikeVis PodMod and I'm pleased to say that I'm in the right sort of ballpark regarding glimmering  effects.

 

I need to get something built and operating on my bike soon, and the same for my gaughter's bike too, as well as people like your interested self.

 

The first version will only have automatic dimming, and full brightening when high beam is activated. The reason for that is that some bikes switch the high side of the indicators and horn, and some switch the low side, so to satisfy all needs I either need to make different versions, or as I hope to do instead, make the switching method something which the unit will automatically detect for itself. Adding this extra feature will take time to work out, but I want one NOW !....and I know I'm not alone.

 

I've just cleared a space on my desk to start prototyping a couple of these first units (later features can be added with firmware updates) and I've ordered some midnight oil what for burning.....hopefully something will be ready within a couple of weeks if not sooner.

 

Thanks for the kick up the jacksie here (unintentional or otherwise )  It's been getting pushed to the back of my desk over and over too much.

Edited by fixitsan, 08 February 2018 - 12:00 am.

[Favs]

No pressure - :cake eating:has priority.

Keen to know/try/buy

[fixitsan]

I've got the prototype built up and installed on my bike, and discovered my first problem !

 

The DRL led's which are built into my handguards have some sort of switching power supply/regulator on the input, because it is smoothing out the glimmering effect. Testing it on my desk with ordinary 12V LED's shows the glimmering is working fine. It is subtle but noticeable, but at ,maximum  power the handguard DRL's smooth out the glimmering to produce a continuous illumination.....at least it works in one way - the auto brightness is working well.

 

It's probably a case of finding suitable DRL's if the glimmering is required, otherwise, it is possible to simplify this design further, and have something which automatically dims the DRL's at night and brings them on with full power when the high beam is activated. The mosfet transistor being used is capable of switching a 10A current, good enough for the highest power DRL's (120W)

 

 

I need to figure out how to integrate the light sensor. It ought to be handlebar mounted, or it should poke out through a crack in the bodywork, which should be skywards facing. If i can find a handlebar mounting switch with enough spare room to put the controller PCB that would be ideal !

 

Maybe this https://www.ebay.co....RIAAOSwDFBaS1pb

Edited by fixitsan, 11 February 2018 - 06:46 pm.

[Coxylaad]

Great work! 

 

just popped on here and saw this. not been on for a while - this is very interesting! 

[fixitsan]

Great work! 

 

just popped on here and saw this. not been on for a while - this is very interesting! 

 

Cheers Coxy...

 

I was out at the weekend with the prototype on, the sky was quite dull and the DRL's weren't at full brightness, and when it rained they were stable.....if they had been at full brightness in the rain they would have caused some dazzle.

 

I was previously keeping the DRL's aimed at the ground, 10m in front, but now they point straight forward and don't appear to be causing any bother in subdued lighting. I'll need to wait till it gets dark tonight to try them in the dark but I'm quite pleased with them as they are now.

 

The first version will have auto dimming, full brightness with full beam headlight, and flashing rapidly when the horn is sounded. The rapid flashing with horn isn't meant as an aggressive thing, I can recount lots of times when I've sounded my horn and for whatever reason the other road user hasn't noticed me....so it's just intended to get a bit more visual attention, momentarily. Of course, if someone doeasn't want that they can just disconnect the wire from the horn

[dmmsta]

I'm holding off fitting my DRL's on the back of this thread.
I'm probably going to sell my current ones (mentioned earlier in the thread - they have a control module) and find some better ones that will fit this application better

[Favs]

I'm holding off fitting my DRL's on the back of this thread.
I'm probably going to sell my current ones (mentioned earlier in the thread - they have a control module) and find some better ones that will fit this application better

 Yep, me too. I have already bought some chip on board very bright types to replace the current LEDs on the handguards.

 

 

Cheers Coxy...

 

I was out at the weekend with the prototype on, the sky was quite dull and the DRL's weren't at full brightness, and when it rained they were stable.....if they had been at full brightness in the rain they would have caused some dazzle.

 

I was previously keeping the DRL's aimed at the ground, 10m in front, but now they point straight forward and don't appear to be causing any bother in subdued lighting. I'll need to wait till it gets dark tonight to try them in the dark but I'm quite pleased with them as they are now.

 

The first version will have auto dimming, full brightness with full beam headlight, and flashing rapidly when the horn is sounded. The rapid flashing with horn isn't meant as an aggressive thing, I can recount lots of times when I've sounded my horn and for whatever reason the other road user hasn't noticed me....so it's just intended to get a bit more visual attention, momentarily. Of course, if someone doeasn't want that they can just disconnect the wire from the horn

I may consider either a switch to facilitate flash mode on/off and/or input from hazards (on) which would help (maybe) when filtering. What do you think?

[fixitsan]

 Yep, me too. I have already bought some chip on board very bright types to replace the current LEDs on the handguards.

 

I may consider either a switch to facilitate flash mode on/off and/or input from hazards (on) which would help (maybe) when filtering. What do you think?

 

Great idea but i do have some reservations. I chicken out from using hazard lights when filtering, preferring to rely on bright front lighting and a loud exhaust, both of which are legal, but using hazards while moving is a very grey area.....my reason for thinking twice is because every little probably helps, and having seen the scooters flying around the Peripherique in Paris between vehicles,using hazards it isn't too bad.

 

But hazard light control requires tapping into the wiring before the indicator relay, otherwise every time an indicator comes on both DRL's will flash at the same time. (Indicator sensing will come later on)

 

 

For now I'm thinking the way to go is to make half a dozen or so prototypes and give them out FOC, in return for honest feedback. I am keen to find out how they interact with DRL's already purchased, whether fitted to the bike yet or not, because it's cheaper and easier for me to do this than it is to go and buy lots of different types of DRL for testing.

 

I've got all the bits I need to build them, but they won't be pretty, probably potted in hot melt glue and heatshrink tubing, but safe enough and strong enough to install and use.

 

I've got some time off this week so I'll hopefully be able to push on soon

[Favs]

Yep you're correct, the lighting requirements lays it out against moving with hazards except in certain circumstances - so a switch will be easier and a bit more legal

 

I've ridden through Paris (a long time back and it was interesting then, must be worse now). I think the driving rules were after me, you're first

Edited by Favs, 19 February 2018 - 01:26 pm.

[fixitsan]

Yep you're correct, the lighting requirements lays it out against moving with hazards except in certain circumstances - so a switch will be easier and a bit more legal

 

I've ridden through Paris (a long time back and it was interesting then, must be worse now). I think the driving rules were after me, you're first

 

I see what you're saying re the simplicity of a switch. That could be something which a user can choose to add for themselves, by putting a blocking diode on the horn sense wire and buying their own bar mounted switch.

 

I'm probably overthnking it, but for this application you would also want an illuminated switch, just to remind you that the DRLs are still in fast flashing mode.

Edited by fixitsan, 19 February 2018 - 09:11 pm.

[fixitsan]

'ere's a wiring diagram - >  https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/

 

For those who will receive a prototype shortly, please drop me a line if anything needs clarification, I'm happy to help and appreciate you are helping me by trying out this doohickey

 

The prototypes have basic waterproofing, they would probably leak a little bit if submerged in water but hidden behind a body panel they will be fine. You can fit the control box using cable ties through the box's  edge slots and probably also double sided tape should work in a clean and dry location. The light sensor on my bike is trapped between the inner cowl and the side panel, facing upwards. I've included a 6way connector and terminals, which is completely optional to use, but just in case someone felt like making it removable i included it. I have no idea about MOT testing and would normally disconnect this sort of device, or simply remove the fuse. The 12V supply should be fused and ought to be switched with the ignition.

 

The installation ought to be straightforward, the only question might be about the horn wiring. I have written the code to automatically detect whether the horn is wired for active low or active switching. you should fit the pink wire to the side of the horn which is switched. On a 900 one side of the horn has a permanent 12V supply, because it is switched low on the other terminal, it is this other switched terminal which should be used. But you can not damage the unit if you get it wrong the first time, so a trial and error approach works. Just make sure you turn the ignition off in between attempts.

 

When you sound the horn the DRL's will flash rapidly for a couple of seconds.

When you turn on the high beam the DRL's will be set to high brightness regardless of the ambient light level

There is some intended flickering/glimmering at about 14Hz frequency of the DRL's, which will probably only be noticeable if you use basic LED DRL's . If your DRL's have a wide input voltage range, such as 12-80V (like mine have) then the internal power supply within the case of the DRL will smooth out the glimmering , however all functions including the automatic dimming for night use will still work as intended.

 

For a simple quick check you only need to connect the red, green and black wires, the pink and blue wires can safely be left 'floating'

 

The only DRL's which are problematic are those with built in strobe functions, which you have to cycle through power on/power off cycles to get them into the mode you prefer.The glimmering effect of the controller confuses those DRL:'s internal controller.

 

Some DRL's have three wires, red, yellow and black. Whenever the yellow wire is switched to the red wire the DRLs step through their programmed modes (usually at leats one flashing routine and one brightness setting. I guess you can still use these. Just set them to their brightest steady output and then connect the yellow wire to the black wire to keep the unit locked in it's current mode.

 

The unit uses barely any power, and the internal MosFet transistor switch is rated for up to 10Amps of current. There is no heat management involved though so 10A of led DRL's would probably cause it to get pretty warm, but bearing in mind that a single DRL is unlikely to draw more than 1Amp I can't see this being a problem, but then this is what I need to find out too !  In my tests the unit didn't get warm even at 5Amps.

Edited by fixitsan, 24 March 2018 - 12:01 pm.

[Favs]

Pretty much covered everything there Fixitsan

[JBX]

Using a MOSFET with an Rds(on) = 20mΩ, you will have a power dissipation of 20mW @1A...

No need for a heat sink !

[fixitsan]

Using a MOSFET with an Rds(on) = 20mΩ, you will have a power dissipation of 20mW @1A...

No need for a heat sink !

 

Nope, not at 1A....but I^2 * R at 10A  ......2W !

 

Also. I've used an enhanced mode IRL520 which only *nearly* switches fully at 5V

Edited by fixitsan, 24 March 2018 - 09:36 pm.

[JBX]

I hope your led drl does not draw 10A per side (and per mosfet I presume) otherwise there is something I'm missing !

[fixitsan]

I hope your led drl does not draw 10A per side (and per mosfet I presume) otherwise there is something I'm missing !

That would be a cause for concern !
The difference in price between a 2A mosfet and a 10A one was only pennied, so I chose the higher power version to give a better safety margin.....I've seen a Harley which was lit up like a Christmas tree in DRLs !



There will be time for Muntzing later https://en.m.wikiped...g/wiki/Muntzing

Pretty much covered everything there Fixitsan

Hope so. Cheers

[fixitsan]

I'm not going to be taking this project any further forward.

 

 

It seems that the distant manufacturing facility (China) has finally caught up with our needs.

 

Check this out  https://www.ebay.co....tm/122935317241

 

I've ordered one and should be able to figure out how to trip the dimming function automatically (given that most of our headlights are permanently illuminated (unless you ride something less than a 900 ) it needs a small modification ) Watch this space...

 

Interesting that they've added a horn flash routine. All previous modules I've looked at were just basic headlight dimming.

 

There is no way on earth i could come up with something in this price range so I'll not bother trying

 

 

EDIT... £7.83    is that the smell of child labour in the air ?  (No, just very efficient manufacturing...)

https://www.ebay.co....5.c100005.m1851

Edited by fixitsan, 28 March 2018 - 08:42 pm.

[JBX]

An Arduino Nano is cheaper than that and much more versatile.

Not to mention the joy of C coding... 

Edited by JBX, 28 March 2018 - 11:46 pm.