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#1 idlebloke

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 07:36 pm

Apologies in advance!!

Every time I find a few minutes to get on and do something to get the bike back on the road, another issue occurs and I am back here asking questions!!

All fuel supply cleaned up now, so was just about to swill some old petrol around the tank with the filter assembly out to make sure it was clean and had a shock on looking in the tank. Rust...not bad or serious, but enough to make sure that muck will get into the system.

Any good ideas on the best way to clean this out?? help.gif

#2 SteveK

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 07:51 pm

Frost automotive (car restoration supplies) do a range of fuel tank treatments. I used some on my BSA Bantam restoration. Cant remember the exact product, but it cured exactly what you describe.

Found it http://www.frost.co....roductName=Fuel Tank Sealer (US Quart, 946ml)
Not cheap but works great.
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#3 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 07:58 pm


Think Wicky used stonechips.

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#4 tdm850rider

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 08:32 pm

QUOTE(Studley Ramrod @ Tue 27th Jul 2010, 03:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Think Wicky used stonechips.


Well, when Wicky was young all they HAD was stonechips! tongue.gif
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#5 wicklamulla

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 10:42 pm

pebbles and some go go juice, swill an shake it around alot, tip it out and rints it out with fresh go go juice. badgers.

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#6 Fernihough

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 10:47 pm

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Tue 27th Jul 2010, 11:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
pebbles and some go go juice, swill an shake it around alot, tip it out and rints it out with fresh go go juice. badgers.

Your neighbours must be delighted with the "music" when you are shaking around "a lot" rolleyes.gif
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#7 wicklamulla

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 10:48 pm

QUOTE(Fernihough @ Tue 27th Jul 2010, 11:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Your neighbours must be delighted with the "music" when you are shaking around "a lot" rolleyes.gif

ya shud see dare faces when i jiz wan out on me lawn. regards, The Lawn Ranger.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



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#8 Guest_LDRider_*

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:18 am

If you want to get it done 'permanently', you can use POR-15 kit. Pain in the neck, but really does the job properly. I'm sure there is at least one post on here about it, although it's not required as the instructions are very straightforward.

#9 idlebloke

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:40 am

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Looks like gravel/pebbles etc and juice will be simplest and cheapest for a quick attempt. My only minor fear is that one of the pebbles will get stuck in one of the tight angles, but don't suppose that should cause too much of a problem.

Will look to raid a neighbours garden now for some small pebbles!!


#10 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:50 am


You can easily put 'em back when they're all petrollie tongue.gif

Just a thought but a little background music might help you when your pebblin yer tank, a little Margerita Praketan pehaps !

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#11 slartybartfarst

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 12:23 pm

Know anyone with a cement mixer?

Couple of handfuls of pea shingle, splosh of parafin, seal it all up, wrap up well in foam, stick it in a cement mixer for 15 mins then turn around and give it another 15mins. Flush out with more parafin - which should keep rust off the clean metal until you've fueled it up. For extra insurance use tank coating gloop.

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#12 idlebloke

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 03:26 pm

Just been to beach and got some (will put it back when finished of course)

Cement mixer is sitting in the garden.......don't think I'll try that one though!! Thanks for the suggestion clapping.gif

#13 tdm850rider

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 03:40 pm

QUOTE(pharland @ Wed 28th Jul 2010, 07:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Will look to raid a neighbours garden now for some small pebbles!!


I don't suppose I need to add wash off any clinging dirt first.... tongue.gif
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#14 danceswithmopeds

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 04:14 pm

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Tue 27th Jul 2010, 11:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
ya shud see dare faces when i jiz wan out on me lawn. regards, The Lawn Ranger.


Is this why you're moving?

#15 MadManx

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:38 pm

I just cleaned my tank last week as it was the same.
I put 2lt of diesel in with some 8mm nuts tied on a piece of string (tie wrap would work) and put it in a tonne bag and 10 mins in the mixer three times.
Easy to pick out nuts.
Washed through with parafin.
Washed out with unleaded.

Worked great.

#16 idlebloke

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 07:57 pm

Just given it 2 'run throughs'.

Filtering the petrol through a rag has produced enough muck to easily fill a matchbox and a bit more!!

Will have another couple of goes tomorrow....still not gonna use the mixer.....actually, just reread Slarty post.....idiot....never read it properly first time!! I imagined the tank thumping and bumping around in the mixer bowl!! istupid.gif

#17 westaustdm

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 10:01 am

I'm just doing mine. Used nuts, because they are easy to remove with a magnetic pick-up tool. Pebles I used before was messy and hard to get out.
Now sealing?
I have used Silver Solder for about 14 pin holes in the flat plate (fuel hole) area. I have great success with this in the past on metal tanks. Needs to be cleaned with solvent and lots of solder flux though. Keep the heat low just enough for one maybe two holes at a time. Let coll and next.
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Edited by westaustdm, 07 January 2019 - 10:04 am.

Nothing teedium about a tdm.

#18 Nog

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 10:35 am

I have used Silver Solder for about 14 pin holes in the flat plate (fuel hole) area. 

 

I wouldn't trust solder to repair tanks.  May be ok at first but you don't know how good the bond is between the metals or how thick the repair is (solder is more a 'glue' than a true bond between metals).  On a hot day in the sun pressure can build up in the tanks and you only need those pin holes to start leaking a small amount to cause a big problem.

 

IMO get the holes properly welded up or brazed at the very least.  I've read of people soldering tanks up but IMO it's a bodge and not something I'd to when I'm about to ride around with my family jewels sat on litres of flammable liquid.

 

Each to their own though.



#19 westaustdm

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 11:08 am

Silver solder not solder. Is strong used properly. As I explained used it many times. Brazing would require a higher heat the thin metal wouldn't handle. But smudging was possible. Try silver solder low heat and plenty of cool down time. Slowly smudging not just dollops. Better luck next time. I've had trouble before with chemical bonds. We use silver soldering in tank building for years never a problem but I do a low pressure test over night. Checks fine. Now found over flow pipe is leaking internal so that will need replacing... oh dear... Lols.

Edited by westaustdm, 07 January 2019 - 11:09 am.

Nothing teedium about a tdm.

#20 Nog

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 11:32 am

Fair enough, as I say each to their own.

 

Either way I just noticed this thread is nearly 9 years old :D




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