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Clutch Replacement.


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#21 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:27 pm

You shouldn't need one if all you're doing is replacing the clutch plates as you don't need to remove the boss or boss nut. :)  The universal tool holds the boss so you can remove the nut.


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#22 dmmsta

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:54 pm

You shouldn't need one if all you're doing is replacing the clutch plates as you don't need to remove the boss or boss nut. :)  The universal tool holds the boss so you can remove the nut.

13 words in and reality struck. :rolleyes:

While I was reading the manual (re-install bit) I wondered why you'd do the boss nut before the plates, and then realised...don't know why it took so long to actually realise what I was asking on here was the same thing I'd already worked out...


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#23 dapleb

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 10:11 pm

Was about to say that I think ewe mean a holding tool. I made mine out of a cake trolley!!!
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#24 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 10:37 pm

Minus the cake I hope. :cake eating:


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#25 AlanG

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 10:56 pm

Changed mine on a 850. I changed the lot, friction plates, metal plates, springs, release bearing. Other things to check is wear on the basket tangs. Make sure markings on plates are all the same way round. Not sure about 900 spec ?

#26 JMC

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 08:01 pm

Interesting thread !

I recently serviced my 850 and since then the gear change from 1st to 2nd is clunky and sometimes difficult in the sense it just pops into neutral so I have to shift again

I used the correct oil so would it be fair to say there is some clutch wear ?


Edited by JMC, 13 February 2017 - 08:01 pm.


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#27 dmmsta

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 08:56 pm

Interesting thread !

I recently serviced my 850 and since then the gear change from 1st to 2nd is clunky and sometimes difficult in the sense it just pops into neutral so I have to shift again

I used the correct oil so would it be fair to say there is some clutch wear ?

On the 850 I believe this can mean something else - but someone will confirm


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#28 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 09:18 pm

With the 850 problem, it's generally the mk1 slipping out of 3rd gear or slipping in 3rd gear.

 

Interesting thread !

I recently serviced my 850 and since then the gear change from 1st to 2nd is clunky and sometimes difficult in the sense it just pops into neutral so I have to shift again

I used the correct oil so would it be fair to say there is some clutch wear ?

 

You could try adjusting the gearchange lever rod if there's excess play there.  You could also check it's not worked loose.  Might also be worth checking the drivechain slack is correct.


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#29 JMC

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 11:12 pm

With the 850 problem, it's generally the mk1 slipping out of 3rd gear or slipping in 3rd gear.

 

 

You could try adjusting the gearchange lever rod if there's excess play there.  You could also check it's not worked loose.  Might also be worth checking the drivechain slack is correct.

 

I'll double check everything at the weekend when I've more time hopefully it's something simple as you suggest  :good:



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#30 JMC

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Posted 15 February 2017 - 04:36 pm

Update on 

 

With the 850 problem, it's generally the mk1 slipping out of 3rd gear or slipping in 3rd gear.

 

 

You could try adjusting the gearchange lever rod if there's excess play there.  You could also check it's not worked loose.  Might also be worth checking the drivechain slack is correct.

 

Update on this: The gear change lever was about 5mm out of alignment and it's perfect now after the correction, did not realise such a small adjustment on it would make such a difference !



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#31 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 15 February 2017 - 08:02 pm

:good:  Think I had a similar crunchy gear change due to incorrect adjustment.  Glad you're sorted. :)


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#32 paultdm850

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 05:15 pm

 

 

Also - while on the subject of cables - whats the best thing to lubricate the cable itself, and how do people do theirs...?

 

I use a piece of old fuel hose that fits snugly around the outside of one end of the outer part of the cable. Then I dribble a little engine oil in the end of the fuel hose and with the gun from my compressor pressed firmly into the end of the fuel hose, I very gentle apply a little pressure until the oil comes out the other end. Takes seconds and you can even do this with something like WD40 if you want to wash the cable out first. I've not found a faster way yet.



#33 m471c

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 06:17 pm

Hello guys...i'm quite new to this TDM 900 forum and have a question...i have owned several bikes and race them for few years, but got tired and settle down with a bike that works and doesn't give me a headache, I'm quite a technical guy but there is a problem i need some explaining about...
Few weeks ago my clutch started to slip a little, since i have this bike for only 4 month and is has at least 70.000km on it, I thought the clutch was worn out...But when i opened it, was a shock...

 

kupla.jpgimage hosting 10mb limit

The first and the last friction disc has been scattered and shredded...the clutch still operated, but those two discs have not been whole (1/4 of a disk has been broken and thrashed around)... all friction and metal disc were in specs as written in manual... So i manage to get new parts put them together according to service manual...the bike runs fine...

but i still wonder how did it come to this...okay maybe i did pop some wheelies but nothing drastic...nothing indicated in clutch that have might been overheating or else... so any of you got any ideas ?
 



#34 Sidarta

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 02:28 am

Hello guys...i'm quite new to this TDM 900 forum and have a question...i have owned several bikes and race them for few years, but got tired and settle down with a bike that works and doesn't give me a headache, I'm quite a technical guy but there is a problem i need some explaining about...
Few weeks ago my clutch started to slip a little, since i have this bike for only 4 month and is has at least 70.000km on it, I thought the clutch was worn out...But when i opened it, was a shock...

 

kupla.jpgimage hosting 10mb limit

The first and the last friction disc has been scattered and shredded...the clutch still operated, but those two discs have not been whole (1/4 of a disk has been broken and thrashed around)... all friction and metal disc were in specs as written in manual... So i manage to get new parts put them together according to service manual...the bike runs fine...

but i still wonder how did it come to this...okay maybe i did pop some wheelies but nothing drastic...nothing indicated in clutch that have might been overheating or else... so any of you got any ideas ?
 

 

Hi m471c!

 

I do not believe in overheating. Discard.
1) It may have a spacer ring twisting.
2) Or some small piece broke loose, out of fatigue or defect, and entered between the discs.
3) The sixth forks may be grooved, securing the (square) guide end of the disc, causing it to break during the movement of separating and joining the discs.

 

Cheers!


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#35 m471c

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 05:33 pm

Tnx for answering...no.2 is probably the correct answer i think :D thou the forks have some signs of wear but they are far from disabling the disc or locking them in improper position...maybe someone changed the inner plates and just used old outer plates...i guess it was something previous owners screwed up...

So as far as i'm concerned right now there shouldn't be problems from now on, right ? anyhow i'll just ride it and see what happens ;) 

Cheers!



#36 Wimpy

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Posted 14 October 2019 - 11:27 pm

Hi Guys

Can anyone point me in the direction of the procedure to replace the clutch plates on a 9er. and what tools i will need I have not attempted anything like this before.

 

Cheers guys / gals



#37 Bjørge

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Posted 15 October 2019 - 05:42 am

You find the manual here: https://www.tdm-yama...t.org/?page=DOC

 

I never changed it myself, but .... You don't need a lot of tools. Something for locking the clutch basket, but a helper sitting on bike in 1st gear and brakes applied may do the deal (? anyone ?).

 

Seen some times to soak friction plates in oil for a while before installing.


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#38 Favs

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Posted 15 October 2019 - 06:59 am

Do work with the bike on the sidestand (retains oil in bike).

New gasket needed.

No special tools or force required.

Pay attention to actuating arm angle.

Read the manual before you begin so you are more confident.

Below in red = not required unless you're doing more than plates.

HTH

 

You find the manual here: https://www.tdm-yama...t.org/?page=DOC

 

I never changed it myself, but .... You don't need a lot of tools. Something for locking the clutch basket, but a helper sitting on bike in 1st gear and brakes applied may do the deal (? anyone ?).

 

Seen some times to soak friction plates in oil for a while before installing.


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#39 dandywarhol

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Posted 16 October 2019 - 06:26 pm

Not a good idea to lube a nylon coated cable. Check the outer cable for damage - if the plastic outer sheath is broken then the outer cable trys to compress itself and the clutch cannot free properly


Edited by dandywarhol, 16 October 2019 - 06:28 pm.

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#40 wicklamulla

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Posted 16 October 2019 - 07:52 pm

Not a good idea to lube a nylon coated cable. Check the outer cable for damage - if the plastic outer sheath is broken then the outer cable trys to compress itself and the clutch cannot free properly

 

 

Randyborehole,   can ya explain that some more please as i don't understand it.


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