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Fork Oil Seal (mkI)


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#141 openroad

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 01:09 pm

looking to do the seals on my mk1 850. just ordered them on ebay. i've done this job on a few bikes in the last five years any thing i need to look out for when doing this job on a tdm. what weight oil and how much per fork are you gental foke using? my forks are squeaking at me which is making me think i've go no oil in or very little them which is kinda worrying. (seems fine while riding) the dust seals are looking a bit crappy tho. just passed an MOT today with them.

#142 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 02:10 pm


Fork oil capacity is 395cc per fork. Haynes say 10w oil but I think Yamaha have it at 7.5w. unsure.gif

I doubt very much if you'll get the old seals removed without damaging the fork bushes, unless you can force them out without having to separate the upper and lower parts. Chances are they're already damaged if there isn't any oil in the forks.

I'll say it again, but ya really will need a Haynes manual if you have to separate the forks. There are various bolts and washers, adjusters, rods and springs in there that would be difficult for anyone to accurately describe. Even the parts diagram takes some working out ! rolleyes.gif

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#143 openroad

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 09:40 pm

does anyone have a web site address where i can get the bushes from.

#144 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 09:53 am


http://www.yamahasco...;DisplayID=5481

Metal Slide 1 & Metal Slide 2 are the upper and lower bushes.

Are you sure you need to do all this matey ? If it's handling fine and passed the mot the squeak might just be summat else like the clutch cable or the brake hoses catching.
I wouldn't go near my fork seals unless it were absolutely necessary, jobs a PITA.

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#145 openroad

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 10:19 am

i have seen a bit of residue on the forks and the dust seals are knackard. it's the forks squeaking just bloody annoying. i LOVE TINKERING WITH MY BIKE. i don't go out drinking or smoke. this is my sort of hobbie. the seals are on the way. untill i look under the dust seals i won't now the extent of the leak thanks for the linky



#146 dapleb

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 10:34 am

QUOTE(openroad @ Sun 1st Jul 2012, 11:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i LOVE TINKERING WITH MY BIKE.

Defo get a heinz manuel then.
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#147 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 11:37 am


Have you got the pdf parts file for your bike openroad ? Very handy with the exploded diagrams and you also get all the correct part numbers.

If you register on JBX's toptastic site you can download the files for free, registering is also free ! smile.gif

http://jbx9.free.fr/tdm/index.php

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#148 openroad

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 03:14 pm

yer i have studley. i know i need to get a haynes manual i'm looking for one on ebay but want to get it as cheap as posible. got to love a good deal.


#149 wicklamulla

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:07 pm

QUOTE(dapleb @ Mon 25th Jun 2012, 06:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Good move but you "missed out" on the pickled onion water Thomas. Oi can send thee a wee sample so you don't feel left oot. smile.gif




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#150 James

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 06:18 pm

For reference: Mk1 oil seal removal.

Not sure if this has been mentioned in the thread up to now but...

Once you're ready to separate the tubes from the sliders, it's a lot easier to do this if you gently warm the slider around where the top bush sits. I did mine with a blow torch but a hot air gun or boiling water on a rag wrapped around the top of the slider would do the same job. A gentle heat is all that's required, aluminium is a good heat conductor with a relatively low melting point! If you're lucky you might save your fork bushes. On mine, one side was okay the other ruined, but I'm replacing bushes on both sides anyway.

As mentioned already, use genuine Yam seals. I replaced seals on my FJ1200 three times in short succession before I ordered OEM, they're not much more expensive anyway.

Edited by Jim, 13 March 2015 - 06:20 pm.

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#151 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 07:18 pm

Good thinking Jim, godda be worth a try.  Anything that makes the job easier. :good:


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#152 jellypops

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 08:37 pm

I only split them if I'm fitting new bushes for seals only I use the hydraulic method to pop the seals out works a treat ☺

#153 danceswithmopeds

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 08:48 pm

My seals went last year. I managed to change the seals on their own, without seperating leg and slider. 

Top cap and spring removed, let tube down into outer.

Use a very small drill. Drill into seal to start small hole in steel liner.

Screw a small self-tapper into steel. same on other side of seal

Use piece of wood or similar to protect top of slider, you can lever seal out quite easily.

 

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Edited by danceswithmopeds, 13 March 2015 - 08:49 pm.


#154 loadedmind

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 06:49 pm

When you say #14 & #16, are you referring to this diagram? 

http://www.partsfish...b484/front-fork

 

I'm about to tackle this myself and want to ensure I order all the right parts.  Speaking of which, will these fork seals do the trick?

http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B00691ZSF6

 

I've watched Delboy's video here:

https://www.youtube....h?v=vrmYJgcGX30

 

I believe that setup is similar to ours enough to copy the method.  Anyone care to verify and/or elaborate on possible gotchas?


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#155 Bjørge

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 10:31 am

I think I'm not the only one having run into trouble with aftermarket seals. Hat do change a couple of those after a few days - used genuine Yam ones after that.

 

A comment on the video: This way of separation of fork tubes are ~ 43.55% certainly ending up in warped bushings.

 

Consider an alternative way: https://www.youtube....h?v=QAK2GrWaTu0


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#156 loadedmind

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 01:20 pm

Bjorge-> From the Amazon link, do those seals appear to be the ones you ordered?  What all other parts did you replace in the fork seal job or were they just the seals themselves?


Edited by loadedmind, 08 January 2016 - 03:18 pm.

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#157 TDrummer

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Posted 18 March 2016 - 07:13 pm

Just read this entire thread. What a trip!

 

I'm thinking I'll remove my forks and bring them to a pro for rebuild when the time comes.

I think I can swap the oil myself in the meantime...



#158 Bjørge

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 10:58 am

They're not that complicated. Not much you'd service other than oil seals and bushings - both easily swapped.


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#159 dapleb

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 11:30 am

:wifgeni:

Its not tricky and if not done fur a while then worth replacing bottom bushes anyway so doesn't matter if ya ruin em.

I would def do em yersen-----we can talk ya through stage by stage!

Havin said that, if seals not leaking then just changing the pickled onion water will make a big diff!!!
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#160 idlebloke

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Posted 19 July 2016 - 07:18 pm

Looks like I may need to replace the seals and oil on my 4tx.

Googled first and landed on Dappers youtube vid, so have saved that to look at again.  Have been having a read here and making notes.

Quick Q.  Do we have a thread for the MkII, or are they pretty much the same as the MKI?


Oh.  In the meantime I have invested in one of these.  If it helps me thru' MOT next month, I can sort the seals and oil change later

http://www.ebay.co.u...rYAAOSwve5XOFnS




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