11 replies to this topic

[hoggyf]

As it says really, I've wanted a Tdm for a while and would really like a mk1 as in my opinion they look best but....... I'm terrified about the horror stories about oil usage and blow ups. Are they really as bad as they are portrayed? Is it an urban myth? And how can I tell if its a good un or ready to blow?
Hope you guys can help

[TDMick]

It's a cunning plan, if everyone knew how good they were the prices would go up.

[masterbrewer]

It's a cunning plan, if everyone knew how good they were the prices would go up.

 

Good point Mick    maybe I should stop posting my ride reports

[Studley Ramrod]

The blow ups are almost always due to the owner/rider not checking the oil level.  The exception being some idiot who nearly blew his engine after dropping some cardboard into the sump.   Anyhoos, moving on.......

 

Oil usage varies considerably from bike to bike.  Anything up to 1ltr of oil per 1000 miles is acceptable, according to Yamaha. Anyone who's selling a mk1 that they've owned for a while will be able to tell you how much oil the bike uses.

 

Another thing to look for is a slipping 3rd gear.

[hoggyf]

Ok the oil usage is just one of those things then, almost a bloody 2 stroke lol

Does mileage make a difference i.e. higher miles more oil use? anything else in particular to look for? any of the models (mk2 or 900) better or worse?

Nooby questions I know but hope you can help.

[TDMick]

I'm a Mk2 owner (they're the best).

Points to note;

 

Mileage doesn't matter much (although it would be a negotiating point).

 

Oil as above - 9ers generally don't use oil, if you're looking at a Mk1 or Mk2 and the owner says it don't use oil, be suspicious. Oil use depends on how you thrash it, mine doesn't use much at all if I'm careful, check every week and you'll be fine.

 

3rd gear- ANY issue walk away, its cheaper to source a replacement engine than repair the gearbox.

 

Rattly tappets or camchain indicate work to be done, ask about the valve shims (should be checked and adjusted every 28k miles).

 

Drive chain tension - 35 - 50mm at rest (on side stand) too tight could kill the gearbox O/P shaft oil seal.

 

Blue spot front brake are a plus especially with braided lines.

 

Non OEM discs can be a future issue, many on here have complained about them.

 

Cracks in the INNER fairing piece (replacements are like hens teeth) repairs can be made but its a pain to do.

 

Lights are shite - HIDs are a common upgrade or the high power types.

 

There is no Oil pressure light fitted as standard (hence the almost obsessive fixation on oil use).

 

Original exhausts are heavy and prone to rot.

 

Rear shock bottom bolt has been know to seize, check to see if it is an area that has been looked after this should be checked, cleaned and lubed religiously.

 

IIRC there has been a couple of frame issues with MK1s that needed a bit of welding around the swing arm point? can't recall the detail, but it was not a big deal if I recall correctly.

 

Why do I own a bike with this many possible issues? -

It's a very economical bike to own.

It's as reliable as a rock.

When sorted out it's the best all round Motorcycle on the road (still). 

It's distinctive looks appeal.

Will cheerfully do a couple of tankfulls in a day and still leave you in a good mood even when fully loaded.

Has some decent grunt.

Will corner better than I can.

Easy to work on.

There is a wealth of knowledge and assistance available if you do get a problem.

Leaves me with a big grin every time I get off the thing.  

 

 

I'm sure others will be along to add or detract 

 

 

Mick

 

 

 

 

 

Mods: should we put a buyers guide in the KB?

Edited by TDMick, 17 May 2013 - 09:01 am.

[dapleb]

I am sure that oil useage will vary dependent on moileage and valve stem/bore wear but rectum the largest variable on oil consumption is the way the boike is ridden.  I used a completely rebuilt enjun to pootle to work and back for a year with zero oil use but even completely rebuilt I could get up to 250ml per 1000moiles by ragging the byjingo ooot of it on open fast roads.  Could prolly get that oop to 400ml+ after 35,000+ of wear if I had the time/money to ride it. So my view is that they are ALL capable of using oil, the way you ride and roads you use will play a mahoosive part in consumption.

 

There are very very few terminal enjun failures due to anything other than owner error (not chicken the oil).

 

If you are after a mkI (wise choice), then the Top Tree tings oi would check are:

 

Welded on front sprocket

Slipping turd as SR mentioned

Ask about oil consumption (but take the answer with a pinch of salt as described above)

 

If you want someone to kick tyres there might be someone walkinh their Terrier in your area.

[leehenty]

On any of the 850's fit an oil pressure switch to give you some warning, Mick has it on the button re the other issues.

 

9ers are a nice bike, rarely use oil due to ceramic coated bores and gearboxes are known to be generally slightly better than the mk1 -2 offering.

 

Issues:

Early ones had some camchain tensioner problems, easy to replace with later version.

Cold start mechanism can seize, easy to fix, fit a boot kit to it.

 

Chain adjuster bolts can seize and break off in the alloy swing arm, again easy to fix, make brass ones after helicoiling repair, never happens again.

 

There was a recall for the TPS sensor most should have been done by now.

Check the rear suspension linkage has been greased.

 

Check fork tops for seizure of the screwdriver blade adjusters, you should be able to turn them easily. If they are ok dose them with ACF50, fit 17mm plastic nut covers to protect them. If chewed, walk away, they are fixable, but takes a lot of fiddling about with lathes and that, or factor in a big drop in price to allow for repair..

 

Chain tension 50-60mm, most dealers set them too tight.

Jerky throttle can be tuned out via dashboard buttons and the air box flap mod.

Suspension is slightly soft for most tastes, can be fixed with stiffer springs up front, more progressive shock out back.

 

Sky is the limit on suspension costs, right up to Ohlins race kit. Yer pays yer money and take yer pick.

Wilburs make a decent shock with remote hydraulic preload, saves all that fiddling with C spanners.

 

Mine does 55-65 mpg depending on how you twist it's throttle.

Been the best bike I've ever owned bar none.

 

9er riders are not gay, as some on here would have you believe.

Edited by leehenty, 17 May 2013 - 11:19 am.

[gordons]

get yourself a 900. You'll never need another bike. Fantastic.

[AliG]

I'm a Mk2 owner (they're the best).

Just to clarify, Mick., is it the MK2 or the owner that's the best?

[TDMick]

Both  of course

[Beancounter]

Discerning mkII owners will have swapped the emulsion tubes by now.