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#1 dapleb

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Posted 26 August 2018 - 01:01 pm

Lookin for summat to stop damp getting into dangermouse.

It will be indoors with plenty of room so was thunkin of summat loike this https://m.ebay.co.uk...m-/282211143864but not really airtight and would need building around the car.

Have started looking at car specific items like this https://www.carcoon....vo-indoor#intro

Anyone tried such a thing or for any suggestions pleasey?
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#2 wicklamulla

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Posted 28 August 2018 - 09:13 pm

is it damp / mould from lack of use or is rain water finding it's way in past worn door wubbers etc?  the one in the first link looks good value.


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#3 dapleb

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Posted 29 August 2018 - 12:36 pm

Tis inside but designed to be damp! No idea what the humidity was before but for about 6 months have a dehydrogenator running full time.

Borrowed a hygrometer with remote unit that I installed today. Only had time to drop it off and it has already gone from 50% to 60% in the 5 mins I was there! Will be interesting to see what it settles at next time I'm there. Dread to think what it would have read prior to dehydrogenator!!

So my plan is.

Seal up the places atwix roof and wall where wet can get in.

Seal up door and gaps.


Add a small heater to try and keep the compressor type dehydrogenator working in winter months (they dunt really work in cold).

Carcoon or summat to seal off a smaller space to which I will add another desiccated coconut style dehydrogenator which don't much care about operating in cold weather and the remote hygrometer thingy.

Phew... Best get to it.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

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#4 dapleb

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Posted 29 August 2018 - 02:47 pm

Hygrometer showing 81% and rising on return....sigh.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#5 wicklamulla

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Posted 29 August 2018 - 09:50 pm

sounds like a headache,  car will rot and stink if it's continually damp. must be 33 years old now is it?


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

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#6 dapleb

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 04:59 am

Yeah headache aboooot right!
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#7 ChrisG

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 08:30 am

Polly tunnel sounds like a good idea if you can seal it fairly well and then use a dehumidifier to suck up what moisture does get in.  A lot of caravaners put tubs of "moisture crystals (presumably silica gel) in them in the winter to absorb moisture too, you can get bags of the stuff on ebay 


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#8 dablik

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 06:53 pm

Bags of kitty litter can do the same thing, dont know if it would be cheaper than a box of silica gel !!


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#9 TKH

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Posted 31 August 2018 - 01:14 pm

is it used much? Could you put silica gel inside, antifungal on whatever will rot and wrap and places where damp might get in with wrapping film? That just leaves the exterior.



#10 dapleb

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Posted 31 August 2018 - 02:53 pm

Humidity now 85%


Obviously not used enough as the primary ignition system has grown a beard! I don't want to repair for the same thing to happen again.

There is a lot of stuff down there!!! All parts are on pallets and wrapped in fillum so that's not such a worry.

The bikes seem fine but I want to incorporate them into a reasonable moisture levelled atmosphere too.

I have a plan which involves:

Gutters and sealing brickwork on outside where possible.

Sealant atwix roof/wall joints where it's damp.

Another cheap dehydrogenator for the main area when I find one.

A 6x3m poly tunnel sealed to a damp proof membrane with wooden floor in top.

A desicated coconut dehydrogenator in the poly tunnel.

Monitor the rh level. If still to high I will put another poly tunnel inside this one with another desiccated coconut dehydrogenator.. and repeat until moisture level sane or I run out of room. 😀

... will report back win or lose.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#11 ChrisG

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 08:56 am

Gutters and sealing brickwork on outside where possible.

 

Worth checking around doors and windows after rain too. I had rain blowing un under the door to my garage.  Sticking a rubber sealing strip the concrete under the door has made a huge difference to the amount of moisture inside. This rear door is pretty knackered though and I'm probably still getting some in through there.

 

A coating of ACF50 or similar might be worth it to stop any parts that do get damp from corroding.


1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

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#12 dapleb

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 01:58 pm

Thanks Chris. I have put sealant in any door gaps. The rubber door strips are a great idea. No water gets in through the doors as the hanger is covered by an even bigger hangar, so the doors open to an "inside" area but sealing will help me dehumidify.

I think part of the problem with water finding its way in is that another roof feeds onto my roof close to the roof/wall junction. On the other side of the apex roof it joins the next hangar and the valley formed atwix the two did have a gutter but it's now an airborne hedgerow!!!

The roof looks fragile... And as you know I'm not, so clearing that might be an issue. Gulp. Thinking maybe drain rods or summat as hangar is around 30m long!!


I put the remote hygrometer in the car yesterday along with a "unibond aero 360" non powered dehydrogenator loike dis https://www.diy.com/...r/307283_BQ.prd . Inside car humidity was 77%, 21 hours later it's 71% and the aero 360 has collected around 100ml from my poor interior!

Might give the bucket of silica gel a go too.

Boikes are acf50d. Will get underneath the car before it goes in the poly tunnel and give it a good go.

Thanks for suggestions.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#13 ChrisG

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 02:24 pm

No water gets in through the doors as the hanger is covered by an even bigger hangar, so the doors open to an "inside" area but sealing will help me dehumidify.

 

If the outer hanger is leaky the air inside is going to be humid so any ventilation through your smaller building is going to be humid too.  Might be worth seeing what you can do you keep the water out of the outer hanger, while still allowing ventilation.


1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

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#14 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 02:25 pm

Sounds like problem you might be having is water ingress from the roof causing the walls to get wet and stay damp.  If so then sealing up the air  gaps around the doors and roof etc won't necessarily stop the damp atmosphere and could make it worse from a lack of ventilation.

 

I would prolly build a damproof shelter inside the building and then, if you have a leccy supply, install a dehumidifier that has a built in humidity meter and that also has a pipe fitting to allow the unit to drain off externally rather than drain off into a holding tank.


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#15 ChrisG

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 02:27 pm

Are you on CMC?  ET does smoke stuff for a living so I'd guess he knows a thing or two about ventilation.

 

 

ETA:  He does stuff involving smoke extraction and fire safety. I'm not saying he smokes stuff for a living, I know how rumours start over there :D


Edited by ChrisG, 03 September 2018 - 02:29 pm.

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#16 dapleb

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 03:24 pm

The whole place is damp so definitely the outside hangar will have high RH too. This is why I am trying to seal it off completely.

You are right SR the walls are damp. ... So I can see why ventilation is important but it's a damp box within a damp box arghhhh. So my initial plan is too deal with just my damp box by sealing out the bigger damp box.

I have an electric dehydrogenator SR and it's working flat out. I have a plan to get out to drain externally rather than having to empty the 25 litre barrel every 3/4 days.

I will definitely give ET a shout if plan A don't go so good. Also handy to know as I am just reading up on section J of building regs regarding ... Smoke extraction!!!

The damp proof ground sheet arrived today. Poly tunnel ordered and on the way.
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#17 Nog

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 04:12 pm

I have an electric dehydrogenator

 

Are you pumping out all this hydrogen you're producing, also don't light a match afterwards ;)

 

Seriously though, don't fanny around with silica gel etc.  That's only used for modest moisture removal on small spaces and at a slow rate.  For what you need you want one of those poly tunnels like you posted and seal an electric dehumidifier inside with it draining through a pipe to the outside.  Will keep the inside at a decent low level.  If the whole place is damp like you say noting will compete with the humid air coming in unless you fully seal it in.



#18 cobi

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 10:56 pm

I had similar problems and the damp proof membrane under a ply floor made a massive difference. I also added ventilation through the walls and insulated the ceiling.Very happy with the results as the bikes went from dripping in condensation to dry.


Edited by cobi, 04 September 2018 - 10:57 pm.


#19 dapleb

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Posted 05 September 2018 - 05:48 am

Ahh that gives me some hope thanks cobi.

I have discovered a massive 3 foot fan hidden in the back wall! It isn't plumbed in to power but does go outside so this may help swap air when it's dry out if I can get it working.

Desicated dehydrogenator is here. Yodel got to within 1/2 Miles with poly tunnel then disappeared from the radar!!!! Boo
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

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#20 dapleb

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Posted 05 September 2018 - 06:55 pm

New desiccated dehydrogenator installed in the main area and in 5 hours with both that and the standard compressor type dehydrogenator going RH down from 86% to 76%. Whoop whoop but a long way to go.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.


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