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First Tdm, And A Few Questions


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#1 rlittlefellow

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Posted 15 July 2019 - 08:13 pm

Just purchased my 2004 Tdm 900 loving the bike it's my first twin!

1. Bike is very snatchy low down, the wire has been removed for the airbox mod by previous owner, is this normal.

2. I've ordered a replacement cam chain tensioner as I hear slight ticking noise at idle. I've looked at fitting this myself by following instructions for finding tdc but never have i done any work on a bike. It seems a quick job ha. How much do you think it would cost labour wise for garage.

The bike has covered 32000 miles with service history.

Any other tips or areas to look at

Cheers

#2 dablik

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 08:21 am

I expect they will charge an hours labour, but a savvy mechanic should have it done rather sharpish..


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

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#3 Riggers

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 08:39 am

Hi mate. TDM900s are notorious for being 'snatchy' low down, which is a shame as otherwise they're an amazing all rounder. If the air box mod has already been done then (apart from drastic action like sending away the ECU for remapping) about you're only recourse is making sure the drive chain is adjusted bang on. Also careful riding technique at low revs eventually gives results but the snatch never quite goes away (IMHO).

 

Another 'biggy' is the rear suspension linkage which must be kept well lubed. It's a a bit of a fiddly job - especially if you don't have a centre stand - but once done and kept on top of should allow you to sleep at night. Full details with piccies on how to do the job can be found on this site.

 

I've had two 900s and apart from the above they've proved great bikes which will match other bikes costing twice as much. 

 

One last MAJOR problem is this: when the time eventually comes to replace it what on earth do you buy?  :)

 

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Edited by Riggers, 16 July 2019 - 08:41 am.


#4 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 09:02 am

Worth checking the freeplay on the throttle as this can make for a snatchy ride if it's out of spec. 

 

Swapping out the tensioner can be very tricky.  Some have had success whilst others have ended up with the chain jumping a tooth or two.  Best way to be sure everything is correct is to remove the rocker cover so you can visually check the valve timing before and after you've installed the tensioner.  It also allows you to tiewrap the camchain and sprockets so the chain doesn't jump when you release the old tensioner.


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#5 Hombre

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 01:35 pm

There is also changing the CO settings via the dash buttons.

Documented on this site and on JBX's

https://www.tdm-yama...t.org/?page=ISS

which lists common faults.

 

If the airbox electrical wire has been disconnected then there may have been other mods made - including the CO settings.  Unfortunately, there appear to be no standard or default settings to work from.  Can you ask the previous owner?

 

2004 is a very good year :)


Edited by Hombre, 16 July 2019 - 01:35 pm.

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#6 TDM4ever

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 04:54 pm

Just purchased my 2004 Tdm 900 loving the bike it's my first twin!

1. Bike is very snatchy low down, the wire has been removed for the airbox mod by previous owner, is this normal.
 

 

Fitting a Power Commander completely cured the snatchynes (is that a word?) on my 2010 9'er. No airbox mod has been done.



#7 rlittlefellow

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 05:11 pm

Thanks for all the replies, I have been controlling the snatch with clutch, maybe it's just something I have to get used too!

Another issue which is probably making it worse is one of the chain adjustment bolts has sheared off! It's in the garage on Thursday to get it sorted but currently the chain is a but slack so maybe it will perform better once sorted.

#8 AliG

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 06:06 pm

Thanks for all the replies, I have been controlling the snatch with clutch, maybe it's just something I have to get used too!

Another issue which is probably making it worse is one of the chain adjustment bolts has sheared off! It's in the garage on Thursday to get it sorted but currently the chain is a but slack so maybe it will perform better once sorted.

Common problem with the chain adjustment bolts. Lots of people on here have fitted brass ones courtesy of Lee Henty (on here). They don't seize up quite so easily. Where are you based, by the way. Ali


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#9 rlittlefellow

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 06:23 pm

Good idea fitting brass ones! , I'm based on in torpoint in Cornwall.
TDM4ever.

I've thought about P.c But quite expensive, does it have to be specific to the bike? Also I've seen booster plugs on ebay specific for the tdm which claim to soften the throttle response, 129 notes

#10 Hombre

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 07:12 pm

I have been controlling the snatch with clutch, maybe it's just something I have to get used too

I have completely junked the airbox flap gubbins, plugged the manifold suction line, disconnected the electric circuit and changed the CO settings.

Now no snatch.

 

Its not something you have to get used to.


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#11 TKH

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 06:15 pm

Thanks for all the replies, I have been controlling the snatch with clutch, maybe it's just something I have to get used too!

Another issue which is probably making it worse is one of the chain adjustment bolts has sheared off! It's in the garage on Thursday to get it sorted but currently the chain is a but slack so maybe it will perform better once sorted.

 Don't forget chain tension is 50-60mm on a TDM so maybe not as slack as you thought?



#12 spike240

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 07:13 am

Hi there. I feel your pain.  Wouldn't bother with the "Booster Plug"  - waste of money. And please don't ask me how I know.

Depending what your previous bikes were/are - you may have to learn how to ride the TDM. It is a great bike, but you won't think so if you do a lot of town work.

Last weekend I did 800 miles on A and B roads and some lanes and enjoyed every minute. (weekend = Fri Sat Sun & Mon)

 

Hombre - can you enlighten me on the plugging of the manifold suction line.

I have completely junked the airbox flap gubbins, plugged the manifold suction line, disconnected the electric circuit and changed the CO settings.

Now no snatch.

 

Its not something you have to get used to.



#13 rlittlefellow

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 08:35 am

This is my first twin engine, precious have been 4s, nice and smooth ha. I am adapting slightly to it.

It's all slow stuff really where I'm having to adapt.

At the minute lots of town riding, but soon I'll be using it to commute weekly about 180 miles each way.

#14 Hombre

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 08:28 pm


 

Hombre - can you enlighten me on the plugging of the manifold suction line.

There is a tube from manifold to flap actuator.  Manifold low pressure provides the motive power for the actuator.  When you junk the actuator it is necessary to blank/plug the suction line.


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#15 dablik

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 09:57 pm

Go to the site Hombre linked in post 5 spike and have a look about, all explained for ya mucka and piccies i recall.


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#16 Robodene

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 10:55 am

You seem to have all and the only problems that the niner ever really suffers. I would disconnect the suction pipe and plug it. It cured mine and it was a great relief at the time. I remember having to cut off a chain adjuster bolt. Once you get that sorted I recommend that you move the bolt/nut(?) now and again to stop the corroding solid. It is supposed to be its nearness to the silencer that is partly a cause. Let's settle for "snatchyness"; it's not in the dictionary but it is certainly needed on here....?
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#17 rlittlefellow

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 08:07 pm

Got the bolts out....not me garage, said it was bastard, in the end welded a nut onto remaining bolt and got the fecker out, both bolts swapped out for new. Chain tensioner correctly and low and behold...a lot of the snatchyness has gone!

Next job, swap out camchain tensioner! I'm not very mechanically minded, lucky enough the guy I go to is decent, said would cost 30 quid to fit! I'll take that.


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