I am about to install some heated grips to my TDM900 and wonder if anyone can advise me on the best way to route the wiring. I've also noticed the left grip is a poor fit (too loose). Do you think it will be ok to wrap a bit of tape around the bar to make a tighter fit. Thanks.
Routing Wiring Heated Grips
#1
Posted 23 November 2014 - 09:46 pm
#3
Posted 23 November 2014 - 10:35 pm
When I have used the stick-on grip heaters which go under regular grips (as opposed to heated grips), I generally wrap the bars with heat shrink or, even better, silicone tape (like Rescue tape/self amalgamating tape). This reduces the heat sink effect whereby your left grip doesn't get as hot because a lot of heat goes to the bars instead of the grips.
The fact that you have extra room for this is a bonus. I'd give it a few wraps of silicone tape - it's resistant to heat and will keep the heat going into the grips.
#4
Posted 23 November 2014 - 11:01 pm
#5
Posted 26 November 2014 - 03:41 pm
But apart from Dandy's useful hint, it appears no further info forthcoming re: wiring.....
Maybe, for those more proficient, 'wiring via the ignition switch circuit' says it all, but I'd have loved, if not a diag. , then more of a hint as to which wires go to where....
....... that is by the bye, and certainly not in the nature of a complaint..........or indeed what my point is.....
I was then surprised, when resorting both to the 'Knowledgebase', and the 'Search' facility, with variations on 'wiring for heated grips' that nothing at all came up......as I have found on one or two similar topics in recent times......stuff we've chewed over on here, sometimes in depth, that would be v.useful to be able to regurgitate when needed.......
Am I missing something?.....or have we lost stuff from the archive?.......how come a search for 'heated grips' comes up with zip.
Again, not griping, nor decrying the much appreciated contribution of our 'divine admins'.......just wondered how come?
....ducking!.......waiting for the brickbats.......Jiff
#6
Posted 26 November 2014 - 04:00 pm
Full of self-doubt, I 'searched' heated grips again.....& wadda-y-know.....in amongst the previous topics, & discussion on glue & stuff was some info. on wiring an' all sorts.......must have been a glitch previously.......either at my end or on here.......
....believe me, I spent quite a while trying to find it last time...
So, part egg-on-face......sorry!......Jiff
#7
Posted 27 November 2014 - 07:54 am
Thanks for the tips guys. I've noticed also that the new grips are shorter than the originals by about 10-12mm. Why is nothing straightforward?
#8
Posted 27 November 2014 - 03:33 pm
#9
Posted 27 November 2014 - 03:35 pm
I run my accessories (heated grips, GPS, and lights) off a separate 4 circuit fuse block that is powered off a relay. I use the rear taillight wire to trigger the relay. The relay is under the seat, near the other relays. The wiring runs along the main harness on the right inside of the frame and I mounted the fuse panel outside the frame on the right side (opposite of where the RR is mounted). Here is the fuse block I used:
I am definitely the type of guy who would walk away from the bike with the heated grips/GPS/lights still on. So I definitely prefer my extras to be connected to switched power.
#10
Posted 27 November 2014 - 03:48 pm
My advice - Buy a bike you like with everything on it that you need and then leave it alone - you cannot make a silk purse from a sow's ear.
#11
Posted 27 November 2014 - 05:48 pm
In my experience nearly every attempt to improve one's motorcycle brings about some new problem. I put R & G heated grips on my bike - they were incidentally, crap. Then I installed a throttle tamer to make the throttle less jerky on speed humps. This has been a great help but I had to do away with the heated grips. So I decided to try heated gloves instead (Gerbings). After my first journey with these I noticed that I had a large burn blister on a knuckle also one glove was hotter than another so I had to send for a new pair. I haven't tried these - I expect they will give more problems. At present my problem is that I have bought fuel exhausts and now the bike runs really jerky so I bought a Dobeck fuelling device from the states and guess what - I had to pay £30.00 duty and handling charge and now Parcelforce have lost the package ! I have also made many futile attempts to improve the windscreen and reduce wind noise - another sequence of wasted money and failures.
My advice - Buy a bike you like with everything on it that you need and then leave it alone - you cannot make a silk purse from a sow's ear.
Still, mustn't grumble eh?
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, 2014 Kawasaki W800, 2011 Aprilia Tuono 1000 V4, 2020 Yamaha XSR900
"At the cutting edge of technophobia"
#12
Posted 29 November 2014 - 08:07 am
In my experience nearly every attempt to improve one's motorcycle brings about some new problem. I put R & G heated grips on my bike - they were incidentally, crap. Then I installed a throttle tamer to make the throttle less jerky on speed humps. This has been a great help but I had to do away with the heated grips. So I decided to try heated gloves instead (Gerbings). After my first journey with these I noticed that I had a large burn blister on a knuckle also one glove was hotter than another so I had to send for a new pair. I haven't tried these - I expect they will give more problems. At present my problem is that I have bought fuel exhausts and now the bike runs really jerky so I bought a Dobeck fuelling device from the states and guess what - I had to pay £30.00 duty and handling charge and now Parcelforce have lost the package ! I have also made many futile attempts to improve the windscreen and reduce wind noise - another sequence of wasted money and failures.
My advice - Buy a bike you like with everything on it that you need and then leave it alone - you cannot make a silk purse from a sow's ear.
I'm afraid I agree with tomwal on this. Would you even think of buying a car without heating. somewhere to plug in your sat nav or a jack.
Everyone has a smart phone these days and winter comes round every year. Don't even get me started on the centre stand thing
#13
Posted 29 November 2014 - 12:14 pm
By that logic, nobody should ever buy a Mk1 then?
While I agree that tinkering can cause additional problems, I think totally avoiding it paints too broad of a picture. Adding an accessory circuit for things like heated grips and a GPS is fairly simple and harmless provided you have the extra electrical output available.
But even beyond that, how many motorcycles are properly sprung for even an average size man, much less a larger person? How many have decent headlights, much less extra lighting for safety? There isn't a bike I have ever owned that didn't need some extra fiddling here and there.
#14
Posted 29 November 2014 - 12:50 pm
I used some bicycle handlebar stem spacers that I had lying around. You can buy them at bike shops and they come in various widths and in black or silver finish. I put mine at the inner end of the grips i.e not next to the bar ends. They looked really neat.Thanks for the tips guys. I've noticed also that the new grips are shorter than the originals by about 10-12mm. Why is nothing straightforward?
#15
Posted 01 December 2014 - 09:23 am
I bought the Oxford adventure ones and they are only marginally shorter than stock. I also found the left was a loose fit but I didn't bother with any insulation - just the glue that was provided with it.
With the wiring I seem to remember a wire in the main fuse block (blue? maybe?) is a good point for taking off ignition power. Mine is wired to a relay and the main unit for the grips is mounted in the rear under the seat. The wires have been routed under the tank with existing wiring and cable ties every 6-12 inches to ensure they stay tied in with the existing wiring.
Hope this helps.
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