I have a warped LHS disc so I have purchased 2 new discs and a set of 4 pads and thought that perhaps it is better to play safe and get my local bike shop in Chippenham to do the work for me and at the same time replace all of the caliper seals but the shop has quoted me £132 plus vat for the seal set!
I understand it's 8 seals per side but I'm not paying that plus labour so my question is I'm a resonanble home mechanic but have never tackled calipers so do you guys think if I get all the parts I could tackle this at the weekend?
If so any hints and tips or potential pitfulls to watch out for?
thanks in advance.
Front Calipers, Advice Please
Started by
nigel2129
, Mar 18 2014 11:17 pm
10 replies to this topic
#1
nigel2129
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Posted 18 March 2014 - 11:17 pm
#2
dapleb
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Monkey Boy
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Posted 18 March 2014 - 11:55 pm
The seals (and pistonias if corroded) are expensive fur what they is, even aftermarket wans.
Ear is how I did moine: http://www.carpe-tdm...430&hl=calipots
Ewe wont need to split em though unless you really feel loike it.
I would def not put on all yer new kit until certain yer stickin calipot is fixified.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#3
TYREDNGRUMPEE
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 12:38 am
get my local bike shop in Chippenham to do the work for me and at the same time replace all of the caliper seals but the shop has quoted me £132 plus vat for the seal set!
Not those saddo tossers on Bumpers Farm FFS! ( A Corsham boy speaks!)
I got best results removing disc bolts using soakage, an impact driver, a hammer and a little twistage back and forth whilst hitting them.
DON'T be tempted just to undo/leverage the bolts. That way lies snappage.
Edited by TYREDNGRUMPEE, 19 March 2014 - 12:45 am.
#4
Hombre
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 10:31 am
You don't say that the seals are leaking. If not then a good clean with brake cleaner and toothpicks should be sufficient then with the old pads in position, lever the pistons in to get sufficient clearance for the new pads and discs. If you haven't drained the fluid then make sure you don't overflow the reservoir when doing that. Make sure the mounting face of disc/wheel is clean because a spec of summat you didn't see can cause the disc to run out of true sufficient to feel pulsing at the lever.
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#5
Wildbill
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 02:40 pm
Praps remove the calipers and pads and pump oot za pistons and inspect them before you pull zem to bits.
If ze pistons are corroded badly you can suss out options from there.
The seals can be reused usually if the pistons haven't chowed them up.
You need to clean the oxidation from oot ze grooves though.
They are not hard to split and you can get at the grooves much better.
You need a little heat on the disc bolts to soften the loctite;less it 'ill be a Lee Henty job.
The price of new seals is why blue spots get used as an upgrade; pity you already bought new pads for the 'riginals.
Don't come preaching to me;you'll get chased down the road wiff a pitchfork.
#6
dapleb
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Monkey Boy
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 03:10 pm
( A Corsham boy speaks!)
Did ya know me Nanna Moya doon Clevedale Road? 
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#7
leehenty
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Backstreet Mechanikin'
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 06:54 pm
have new disc bolts handy the old ones will be scrap usually.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.
#8
nigel2129
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 08:09 pm
Not those saddo tossers on Bumpers Farm FFS! ( A Corsham boy speaks!)
I got best results removing disc bolts using soakage, an impact driver, a hammer and a little twistage back and forth whilst hitting them.
DON'T be tempted just to undo/leverage the bolts. That way lies snappage.
Many thanks for the advice and yes bumpers farm! You also in Corsham then ?
You don't say that the seals are leaking. If not then a good clean with brake cleaner and toothpicks should be sufficient then with the old pads in position, lever the pistons in to get sufficient clearance for the new pads and discs. If you haven't drained the fluid then make sure you don't overflow the reservoir when doing that. Make sure the mounting face of disc/wheel is clean because a spec of summat you didn't see can cause the disc to run out of true sufficient to feel pulsing at the lever.
Yeah don't as yet if leaking so hopefully not but won't know till sat when i dismantle. Only reason i was thinking of replacing the seals was after purchasing new discs and pads and i haven't tackled this before so thought best to get it done until i was quoted that for the seals plus 2 hrs labour so ill tackle it myself.
have new disc bolts handy the old ones will be scrap usually.
#9
nigel2129
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enuff posts to fill a 50cc
- Location:Wilts
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Posted 19 March 2014 - 08:43 pm
Praps remove the calipers and pads and pump oot za pistons and inspect them before you pull zem to bits.
If ze pistons are corroded badly you can suss out options from there.
The seals can be reused usually if the pistons haven't chowed them up.
You need to clean the oxidation from oot ze grooves though.
They are not hard to split and you can get at the grooves much better.
You need a little heat on the disc bolts to soften the loctite;less it 'ill be a Lee Henty job.
The price of new seals is why blue spots get used as an upgrade; pity you already bought new pads for the 'riginals.
Many thanks for the advice wildbill. Will see how it goes on sat.
#10
leehenty
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Posted 21 March 2014 - 11:36 am
If you do snap a bolt off, I'm about over the weekend, the carpe disc bolt drilling and hub thread recovery service could attend.
I have friends who live down there and his Bonneville needs a slight fettle anyway.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.
#11
nigel2129
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Posted 21 March 2014 - 06:47 pm
Nice one thanks mate.
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