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Sheared Coolant Screw


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#1 BlackTDM

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Posted 17 November 2019 - 09:25 pm

Hi,
Ive had my tdm for 3 years, riding it to work mostly. Its done 60K miles.
I decided to do a bigger service of air filter, plugs etc. Unfortunately, after draining the coolant/refilling, and I was using a torque wrench set to 10N , the drain plug on the right sheared off. Its not leaking but I wonder what I should do. The choice being trying to extract myself or asking my local bike place. Its a small bolt and drilling it accurately looks tricky. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers.

#2 TKH

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Posted 17 November 2019 - 10:50 pm

Hi - I tend to remove the radiator hoses to drain the system. 10nm is not much above finger tight so it's strange you managed to sheer it - faulty torque wrench or setting?. At least it's not leaking at the moment. I assume it's the drain bolt just under the exhaust?

 

You could drill it out, re-tap and put a new/(bigger?) bolt in.

 

I assume it's sheared level or below/into the engine block? Given the low torque setting you could try drilling but put your drill in reverse using a drill bit just under the bolt size, and hope the drill bites and pulls the bolt out. Not as far fetched as it sounds, it's got me out of a few similar problems.

 

To try and help the drill bit get a hold, I drill a smallish hole in the broken bolt a couple of mm deep. If you're lucky, this might even do the trick for you. If you see the broken bolt turning when you are drilling it's loose enough to try and reverse it out.

 

An alternative I've heard of but not tried (not sure how well it will work)  is to use jb weld or similar to try and grab on to the bolt and remove it. 


Edited by TKH, 17 November 2019 - 11:06 pm.


#3 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 09:44 am

:wifgeni:  I've also retrieved snapped bolts using the reverse drill method, doesn't always work but extremely satisfying when it does. :)

 

Although, if you're a little, or a lot, apprehensive about doing it, a local engineer/mechanic shouldn't charge a lot as it's easy to access. They would also have to put right any unintended damage should it happen, such as tapping and helicoiling etc.


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#4 steve27bha

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 11:23 am

To add to and clarify the above suggestions of reverse drilling: - use left-handed drill bits.

There are many videos online of broken bolt extraction. My recall is that most emphasise the initial steps of preparing the broken end surface so that the initial contact with a drill does not get deflected from the required central position.

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#5 BlackTDM

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 12:12 pm

Thank you all. I was using a laser torque wrench but I guess it was the combination of tiredness and long handle that caused it. I may try carefully with a very small left hand drill.I couldnt see the bolt on any on line Yamaha diagrams but I live near CMC Cannock so Ill see if I can buy another from them first.
The bike is running a bit more freely after a new air filter and plugs so apart from the bolt Im pleased with my efforts!

#6 dapleb

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 12:35 pm

Hmm yeah laser... That there could be the problem. 0-25nm? With such small values it needs to be a really decent wrench.

I would prefer to do it by feel at such low settings than risk a dodgy torque wrench.

Other ones to look out for in the stripping threads list are... Oil filter bolts and lower shock mount (though this prolly only for 850s).

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#7 steve27bha

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 11:38 am

...l.I couldnt see the bolt on any on line Yamaha diagrams...

 

If it is the one on the front of the cylinder block (on the LEFT, gear change side!) it is #4 on this:

https://www.bike-par...-2971/B2/0/7416

However, that does not help with its size!

 

The other drain is on the (removable) water pump cover (which is on the right hand side) and is shown on the water pump parts diagram, and both in this service manual page:

https://www.manualsl...page=129#manual

 

HTH


Edited by steve27bha, 19 November 2019 - 11:41 am.

TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#8 BlackTDM

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 06:34 pm

Hi Steve, thanks very much. It is the number 4 on the Left side. CMC seem to have quite a good stock so I'll go armed with your diagram. Cheers.



#9 PICARD

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Posted 20 November 2019 - 07:08 am

Just my 4d worth.....if it comes to "engineering the broken bolt out, I think I'd just leave it alone. I don't think I've ever loosened mine.


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#10 Snowbird

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Posted 20 November 2019 - 08:23 am

Where are you based? Maybe a member local that can assist.


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#11 Favs

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Posted 20 November 2019 - 10:37 am

CMC is Mancs I think


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#12 TKH

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Posted 21 November 2019 - 08:09 pm

CMC - Manchester, Coleshill and Chesterfield.



#13 dablik

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Posted 24 November 2019 - 08:52 am

Just my 4d worth.....if it comes to "engineering the broken bolt out, I think I'd just leave it alone. I don't think I've ever loosened mine.

 

I agree, you'll only get a dribble out anyway after removing the lower bolt.


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#14 leehenty

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Posted 27 November 2019 - 11:12 pm

M6 x 10mm long afaik, oh and plus one copper washer


Edited by leehenty, 27 November 2019 - 11:26 pm.

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