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Head Bearings Quick Adjustment Advisable?


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#1 Norwegian

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Posted 12 May 2020 - 09:32 am

Good morning!

 

Lately, I have noticed a small play in the headstock bearings, at 32 000 km. Not much, no rough feeling or indents at the straight ahead or any other place. I've read all I could find in here and at JBX, envied mr Henty's special tool and whatsnot. The complete replacement procedure of the bearings is pretty clear to me.

 

I do plan to replace with tapered bearings, and change the fork oil at the same time. I had hoped, however, to do it at the end of the season, not now. 

 

Would it be a terrible idea to just nudge the castle nut an 8th or a 16th of a turn until its tight, but not binding, for now? Would it then be necessary to loosen the top yoke clamps, or just the stem cap nut?  

 

Any and all advice much appreciated.


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#2 dapleb

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Posted 12 May 2020 - 10:01 am

Hi N. I have found the best way to gauge wear is to jack up the front and then slightly load front wheel with a jack. Then turn steering, that will reveal true notchyness.

If you decide to give it an extra tweak, I would def do the above test before and after.

Have worn out alot of treader head bearings, I would personally replace but understand the desire to tweak. Is this not something a light application of smergel paste could fix?
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#3 dandywarhol

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Posted 12 May 2020 - 11:14 am

As Dappers says - if there's no roughness or notchiness then, from memory, there are 2 adjuster nuts with a rubber ring between them -  loosen the top yoke bolts and the centre nut, turn both adjuster nuts a half castlation, retighten the yoke bolts then finally the centre nut. Test and repeat if necessary.


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#4 Norwegian

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 02:25 pm

So got around to it today. Put the rear up on a paddock stand and jacked up the engine until the front wheel just touched the floor. There was indeed a small, but distinct slack noticeable on pulling the fork legs.

I losened the senter cap and the yoke pinch bolts and lifted off the top yoke, and tightened the bottom castellation nut perhaps a 16th of a turn with a small hammer and a drifter. It did take some effort, it didn't move as easily as I would've thought. Top castellation nut when only finger tight fell between castels, so tightened it a tiny bit with the drifter to align it and get that lock washer back on. With all tightened up again the slack was gone, and the fork still fell merrily away to both sides with no rough spots. I could probably have tightened it a fraction more, but then again I am a bit wary of binding or premature wear.

It did make a huge difference on handling, especially in long slow turns like roundabouts where it used to sort of fall into the turn requiring sudden adjustments. Doesn't happen now.

Edited by Norwegian, 22 May 2020 - 02:27 pm.

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#5 dapleb

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 02:28 pm

Brill sounds like a good result N...and a lot less work than replacement!
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#6 Norwegian

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 02:33 pm

Brill sounds like a good result N...and a lot less work than replacement!

For sure, it was a 20 minutes job at most, really. All thanks to the excellent advice in here - cheers!

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#7 Snowbird

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 08:18 pm

When I checked mine looking for a rattle when on bumpy surfaces I found the centre bolt was loose, bike had fork seals done just before I bought it so I guess they never tightened it properly, rattle now gone.


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#8 dandywarhol

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 08:47 pm

Is there not a rubber washer between the castellated nuts to still have tension to allow the lock tap to line up?


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