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#21 Nog

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 09:28 am

The easiest is one relay that triggers a little fuse box that goes out to all your accessories.  Then you only have one relay and everythings fused, save's on loads of wires and relays all over the place.

 

You just have to make the wire from the battery to the fuses substantial enough to cover all the combined draw.  That said heated grips I'd probably do it's own dedicated line though.



#22 TKH

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 10:05 am

Decided to see if anyone had any fixes for my Oxford grips problem and came across this:

https://www.bikechat...ic.php?t=142171

Basically saying not to use a relay but to rely on the grips to switch themselves off. I'll give it a go in the next day or so and see if it works for me. Also a number of people reporting water ingress problems with the controller. The proposed remedy is to strip down and blast with WD40 to clean and remove water.

 

I've seen other threads with much the same message. Guess I'll try wiring direct. Shouldn't take long or so to rewire and test.



#23 Nog

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 10:42 am

That's worrying about water ingress.  I might give mine a thin layer of clear silicone around the joints etc to try and waterproof a little bit before it goes out in the weather for the first time.



#24 ManonEdge

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 06:50 pm

To me, yes although as the saying goes, to the man with a hammer, the world's a nail,......... :lol:

 

I have grips, three sets of aux. front lights, two aux. rear lights all through a set of 4 relays and it's all fused. Yes they take some power to keep them energised but I've not had any battery drains since. 

 

A relay costs about £1 or so. I have mine housed in a watertight project box under the seat. 

 

Where are you taking your feed from to pull the relay in? 

Be interested too as to what type your front aux lights are & how you've mounted them. Have so thoughts on doing this but always keen to see how others have tackled it.

 

Cheers

 



#25 Muppdog

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 09:25 pm

TKH,
Have a look how old that thread is. They are probably talking about the old controller. The current one is completely waterproof. It also is usually in a bit of cover behind the fairing. No worries here in the heaviest rain.

Rob

#26 TKH

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 04:15 am

TKH,
Have a look how old that thread is. They are probably talking about the old controller. The current one is completely waterproof. It also is usually in a bit of cover behind the fairing. No worries here in the heaviest rain.

Rob

 

Hi rob, they look the same but  as you say may be different.

 

Also, when rewiring mine, I removed the fuse and found corrosion on the fuse and inside the fuse holder. I've cleaned it up. whether that was causing voltage drop I don't know. Anyway I should be able to give the grips a good test in a day or so. 


Edited by TKH, 01 February 2019 - 04:16 am.


#27 TKH

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 04:41 am

 

To me, yes although as the saying goes, to the man with a hammer, the world's a nail,......... :lol:

 

I have grips, three sets of aux. front lights, two aux. rear lights all through a set of 4 relays and it's all fused. Yes they take some power to keep them energised but I've not had any battery drains since. 

 

A relay costs about £1 or so. I have mine housed in a watertight project box under the seat. 

 

Where are you taking your feed from to pull the relay in? 

Be interested too as to what type your front aux lights are & how you've mounted them. Have so thoughts on doing this but always keen to see how others have tackled it.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

I've got the relays connected to the rear light wire (left side of the rear fairing as you sit on the bike) to switch the relay. I take power direct from the battery and fuse the items through a fuse block


The easiest is one relay that triggers a little fuse box that goes out to all your accessories.  Then you only have one relay and everythings fused, save's on loads of wires and relays all over the place.

 

You just have to make the wire from the battery to the fuses substantial enough to cover all the combined draw.  That said heated grips I'd probably do it's own dedicated line though.

 

 

Hi - I thought of something like this at the time but couldn't see any relays capable of taking the level of power/current for when everything is one. Maybe I didn't look hard enough....



#28 Nog

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 09:00 am

Hi - I thought of something like this at the time but couldn't see any relays capable of taking the level of power/current for when everything is one. Maybe I didn't look hard enough....

 

Most automotive relays are 30A or 40A.  I'd wire the hot grips through it's own relay in all fairness, but the rest (LED DRLs and USB sockets etc) are fine on one.


Edited by Nog, 01 February 2019 - 09:00 am.


#29 JMC

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 05:56 pm

Decided to see if anyone had any fixes for my Oxford grips problem and came across this:

https://www.bikechat...ic.php?t=142171

Basically saying not to use a relay but to rely on the grips to switch themselves off. I'll give it a go in the next day or so and see if it works for me. Also a number of people reporting water ingress problems with the controller. The proposed remedy is to strip down and blast with WD40 to clean and remove water.

 

I've seen other threads with much the same message. Guess I'll try wiring direct. Shouldn't take long or so to rewire and test.

 

I wired direct and never had a problem, if the bike will be lying up for more than a few days I just take out the fuze under the seat

I've heard of lads having problems using the newer grips if fed thru a relay



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#30 Riggers

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 06:06 pm

I've got mine wired directly, and they seem to work fine. I've left them on loadsa times and never had a problem. When the ignition's switched off they enter a 'power save mode' for a few minutes and 'remember' their setting in case you return quickly. In which case you don't have to bother switching them on again. If you don't return within a few minutes they switch off.

 

I'm no expert on the subject and not sure what happens in 'power save mode' but just saying.......

 

On my previous 9er an older set of Oxfords were fitted and wired directly by the previous owner, but they didn't have the auto shut down of the new ones. On that bike I did fit a relay to be on the safe side.

 

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#31 fixitsan

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 08:16 pm

The simplest way to get full protection, is a single high current relay for all accessories, at it's output a single wire to each accessory, fused. This way no matter if one device shorts it blows it's own fuse. Multiple relays are no more reliable than a single one in this type of application.

 

As for the hotgrips, I have 2 sets of the auto switching off type, one on each of my bike, and certainly had no problem. The quiescent current drain is very low, can't remember off the top of my head but not enough to flatten a battery for a long time


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#32 TKH

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 02:29 am

OK decided to have a good long ride out today to check out the rewire of my grips. Went to switch the bike on and ..... nothing. The battery was dead. The only thing I'd changed was wiring the Oxford grips direct rather than via a relay.

 

That's it. I'm sick of these crappy grips. It's not worth buying a new controller because I'm just throwing good money after bad.

 

I put the bike on charge and while I got an initial charge in my battery so that I could jump start the bike of my car I changed them back to being through a relay. When I tried them, of course they no longer work - ffs. Anyone thinking of buying these piles of crap don't waste your money. I've in effect only had a few days of use out of them and they're done. I can think of better things to waste money on.

 

This is a tamed down rant compared with what was going through my mind waiting for the battery to charge. Before anyone says anything, the battery was new a few months ago and this is only the second time I've had a battery almost fully discharge, the other was due to Oxford grips.

 

Thinking on it's pretty much everything Oxford branded I've bought that's prematurely failed in one way or another.



#33 fixitsan

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 07:52 am

OK decided to have a good long ride out today to check out the rewire of my grips. Went to switch the bike on and ..... nothing. The battery was dead. The only thing I'd changed was wiring the Oxford grips direct rather than via a relay.

 

That's it. I'm sick of these crappy grips. It's not worth buying a new controller because I'm just throwing good money after bad.

 

I put the bike on charge and while I got an initial charge in my battery so that I could jump start the bike of my car I changed them back to being through a relay. When I tried them, of course they no longer work - ffs. Anyone thinking of buying these piles of crap don't waste your money. I've in effect only had a few days of use out of them and they're done. I can think of better things to waste money on.

 

This is a tamed down rant compared with what was going through my mind waiting for the battery to charge. Before anyone says anything, the battery was new a few months ago and this is only the second time I've had a battery almost fully discharge, the other was due to Oxford grips.

 

Thinking on it's pretty much everything Oxford branded I've bought that's prematurely failed in one way or another.

 

 

Is the controller you currently have the correct automatic Oxford one, or have you wired via a switch ? It seems like they've been left on and that's what's caused the battery drain.

 

 The very latest Oxford controller, which I'm using on the TDM and a KTM, are working fine wired directly. And I'm not someone who takes wiring things to the battery directly lightly. I have left them on and they switch off by themselves after a couple of minutes


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#34 TKH

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 10:43 am

 

 

Is the controller you currently have the correct automatic Oxford one, or have you wired via a switch ? It seems like they've been left on and that's what's caused the battery drain.

 

 The very latest Oxford controller, which I'm using on the TDM and a KTM, are working fine wired directly. And I'm not someone who takes wiring things to the battery directly lightly. I have left them on and they switch off by themselves after a couple of minutes

 

It's the intelligent heat controller. Wired them as we've talked about on here,  straight to the battery with live and negative. When I changed them over I tried them to ensure they worked. Went up and down the settings leaving the controller not showing any lit led. Even went up one to the first setting and back down to ensure they were switched off. 



#35 fixitsan

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 03:49 pm

 

It's the intelligent heat controller. Wired them as we've talked about on here,  straight to the battery with live and negative. When I changed them over I tried them to ensure they worked. Went up and down the settings leaving the controller not showing any lit led. Even went up one to the first setting and back down to ensure they were switched off. 

 

 

Odd. Do you have an ammeter you can put in line with it to see how much current is being drawn in standby mode ?  Alternatively it may be worth sending back to Oxford, to make them aware of a possible faulty batch issue


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#36 Muppdog

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 06:13 pm

Very odd indeed. Never heard anything negative about these grips since they changed the controller. Had them on four bikes now and never failed. Only once did they not work when numbty here connected the relay up wrongly.
Have you checked the fuse? Accidentally shorted them?

Rob

#37 TKH

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 10:14 pm

 

 

Odd. Do you have an ammeter you can put in line with it to see how much current is being drawn in standby mode ?  Alternatively it may be worth sending back to Oxford, to make them aware of a possible faulty batch issue

 

Yes I try and see what it's pulling. Probably be weekend before I can look properly. 



#38 TKH

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 10:20 pm

Very odd indeed. Never heard anything negative about these grips since they changed the controller. Had them on four bikes now and never failed. Only once did they not work when numbty here connected the relay up wrongly.
Have you checked the fuse? Accidentally shorted them?

Rob

I've had some really strange things going on whilst connected via a relay which is why I changed to wiring in direct to see if that would be a cure. They would work fine and then cut out. Then I could only get them to work on max setting. Then the max setting led cut out but the grips still heated up, for a while then cut out. So much for the intelligent bit. Logically, if the relay was dropping out for some reason it could possibly trip the controller into thinking power had been switched off and it switched off the grips which is why I rewired them .....and lost the best part of a good ride out. :rant:



#39 chrisr

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 10:40 pm

Get some heated gloves?

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#40 TKH

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Posted 08 February 2019 - 10:44 am

Get some heated gloves?

 

Already ahead there. Replaced my old gloves where one had failed with glove liners. Tops/sides of my fingers are as warm as toast. I like to have the heated grips as when riding a distance in winter I can end up with very cold palms, or if one or both heated gloves fail at least I have a backup. Been in both situations as well, and the heated grips have failed as well.

 

I probably sound a bit soft with this but the arthritis pain increases alot when my hand get cold and I end up in so much pain it just ruins the fun.

 

But yes, I'll just use heated liners going forward and put the old working glove in my top box as a spare.




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