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Auxillary Fuse/bus Box


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#1 ChrisG

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:28 pm

I know I've been here before but after some hurtful comments about my "nest of snakes" rolleyes.gif along with a short on one of the relay signal wires, I'm thinking I really do need another go at tidying up the auxiliary wiring on my bike.

The trouble is there's quite a lot of it, and once I check the wiring on it I plan to fit a pulse width modulator on DIN2 for my heated jacket, which I believe varies the earth rather than live for added complication.



I'm tempted by the idea of an Eastern Beaver PC8 but with postage it does seem quite an expensive option, and I don't really need everything separately fused. What I really need I think is some form of bus bar to give me the positive and negative rails I can hang everything else off, as a fair few of those wires are just to connect the rails together rather than connect the rails to my ancillaries.

So has anyone got any bright ideas this time around?


1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#2 dapleb

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:36 pm

QUOTE(ChrisG @ Sun 29th Apr 2012, 02:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So has anyone got any bright ideas this time around?


Li....ahh you said bright ideas.



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#3 Matt101

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 02:27 pm

What about this Chris?

http://www.nippynorm...e-panel-fuz-fz1

Gives you the option of permanently on or switched lives!

#4 ChrisG

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 02:47 pm

That looks quite good Matt, still a similar price to the Beaver but neat to include the relay in the box. I really like the way they've done the switched vs not switched by using the fuse as a jumper, although I want all mine to be switched so it's not necessary.

QUOTE(dapleb @ Sun 29th Apr 2012, 02:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Li....ahh you said bright ideas.


laugh.gif

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#5 catsbum

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:04 pm

Hurtful! To be fair the word Italian was used a few times, then that the Italian looms were more reliable tongue.gif

Anyhows, this it what we saw in France (Near Italy)

hide.gif



#6 ChrisG

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:27 pm

Oi, I'll have you know I've had no reliability issues at all until this shorting problem tongue.gif

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#7 big dave

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:35 pm

QUOTE(ChrisG @ Sun 29th Apr 2012, 03:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That looks quite good Matt, still a similar price to the Beaver but neat to include the relay in the box.


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#8 Matt101

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 03:45 pm

You have to admit though Chris. It is a Rats Nest!! Pied Piper springs to mind!!
biggrin.gif

#9 ChrisG

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:10 pm

Dave does make a fair point laugh.gif

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#10 Saga Lout

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:36 pm

I'm just amazed he had the audacity to take the Michael out of me, just because I left a couple of long (ish) leads on my LED bullets to enable easy removal of the fairings hm.gif
Now on 9er number 2 .....

#11 3vd

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:46 pm

Yes a rats nest indeed!

It just so happens I'm looking into making a PCB for power distribution, to include the relay and fuses etc.

So tell me exactly what you want and I'll knock it up for you FOC, then if it's any good I'll make one for myself lol wink.gif

I was thinking of a PCB with ground, live and ignition live feeds, from this supply some fused outlets at constant live and switched live. Plus I was going to add, a 5v DC DC converter with a USB socket for phone charging etc. Plus a 9v DC DC convertor because my radio uses a 9v charger?? I was thinking of a bare PCB, lacquered for protection from the elements. The problem with putting it in a box is access to the fuses, plus cooling for the voltage converters.



#12 ChrisG

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:58 pm

QUOTE(Saga Lout @ Sun 29th Apr 2012, 05:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm just amazed he had the audacity to take the Michael out of me, just because I left a couple of long (ish) leads on my LED bullets to enable easy removal of the fairings hm.gif


What? Who did? I've not even seen your LED wiring.


Mark, I'm not convinced everything needs to be fused. I reckon a fuse on the common supply to whole lot should be ok, though a separate fuse on the heated jacket supply makes sense.

A simple solution would be common +ve and -ve rails with about 8 connections on each, either with an external relay meaning the +ve is all on a switched live, or a built in relay with an extra connection for the switched live feed. A more complex solution would have a second +ve rail than can powered by the second relay for the lights, though with only 3 connections needed that could be done separately fairly easily.


Now I think about it it's sounding suspiciously like I want an Eastern Beaver or a Fuzeblock but just without the individual fuses

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#13 Matt101

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 05:20 pm

Bit like these?



http://www.tlc-direc...ucts/TLEB8.html

#14 ChrisG

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 05:25 pm

That would be ok for the earth but for the 12v I'd want something with insulation on it.

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now :(
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

post-1-1152402501.jpgpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#15 Saga Lout

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:01 pm

QUOTE(ChrisG @ Sun 29th Apr 2012, 05:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What? Who did? I've not even seen your LED wiring.

It may have been TD but I'm sure you were there too? If not .... sorry.gif

As for the mains earth block suggested by Matt, how much current do you think you can drag out of that poor little battery! Have to admit though, you will be able to join lots of wires ...
Now on 9er number 2 .....

#16 not2fast

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 09:03 pm

Been using that FZ1 from Nippy Normans for about 3 years now on 2 different bikes. Useful bit of kit. GPS power on perm, owt else like my extra lights and heated gear, ignition switched. Simply done by swapping the fuzes about....

#17 danceswithmopeds

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:08 pm

I fitted one from these guys Vehicle Wiring Products and haven't had a problem. Good gear, right price.

http://www.vehicle-w...es/holders1.php

#18 leehenty

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:24 pm

QUOTE(Matt101 @ Sun 29th Apr 2012, 03:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What about this Chris?

http://www.nippynorm...e-panel-fuz-fz1

Gives you the option of permanently on or switched lives!

Now I like that idea very neat. wub.gif

must get me one when swmbo lets me out the shed..

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#19 TDMick

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 11:20 pm

http://www.vehicle-w...photo/lfb06.jpg

If you used something like this and soldered a link across the appropriate terminals you could fuse the lot, and then fuse separate outputs at a lower rating to provide a little discrimination.

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#20 danceswithmopeds

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 03:56 pm

Surface mount fuse box FBB8T.
Exactly what I did do. I soldered a copper cable across the rear terminals, and fused the link connecting to battery.
Piece of tubing split down the side, filled with silicon and fitted over terminals. Physical and water protection.
Whole hollow bottom part of box is overfilled with silicon to keep out water. Sticks it in place.


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