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Yamaha Ignition Dissembled


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#1 Phracker

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Posted 07 June 2019 - 10:45 am

So, forever one to pull things apart, I’ve decided to have a look inside 3VD ignition key. It was a delicate job, but with a few tools (And catlike reflexes for surprise springs) you can easily clean/service your ignition key.  

 

What you'll need:

Graphite powder

Screwdriver

Solvent

Toothbrush

Paperclip (or small welding rod)

Tape (optional)

Small container for washing parts and catching springs (Old crazyglue container for me)

Hobby knife or razor blade

 

1: Remove the ignition from the bike

 

2: Remove the two Phillips screws holding the steering lock to the ignition switch. These two should separate without issue. Take your ignition switch and rest it upside down on your work surface. You should now see the following.

 

https://www.dropbox....24412.jpg?raw=1

 

3: Lift out the electrical contactor. This should slide/fall out without issue.

 

4: Lift out metal detent plate. Again, should slide/fall out without issue.

 

https://www.dropbox....24405.jpg?raw=1

 

5: Read the entire step before continuing. Make a note of the orientation of the retainer plate before loosening the two screws holding it. Under you will find the shaft that drives the steering lock mechanism and a spring. The spring is butted up against the lock cylinder as shown in the picture below. Take these bits out and put them off to the side for cleaning later.

 

https://www.dropbox....24251.jpg?raw=1

 

https://www.dropbox....24035.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox....23953.jpg?raw=1

 

6: The fun part. The lock cylinder is held in place by a spring-loaded brass keeper. It is trapped in place, but the wafer gates are not. If the lock cylinder gets turned upside down, not only will you potentially lose your gate sequence but will risk scattering 5 small springs & wafers around your garage/kitchen/outhouse or walk in humidor.

 

https://www.dropbox....23902.jpg?raw=1

 

If the keeper is at the top, so are the wafer gates. Another indication is a slot on the key cylinder that is on the bottom side only. Do this over an empty container as a contingency plan.

 

Compress the brass keeper into the lock cylinder and push the cylinder out just a few millimeters so the keeper no longer traps the cylinder in place.

 

https://www.dropbox....73336.jpg?raw=1

 

Insert your key into the lock without undoing your prior handy work before sliding the lock cylinder completely out of the ignition housing. The key will trap the wafers in place. You are unable to do it sooner because the key stops the brass keeper from sliding into the lock cylinder.

 

https://www.dropbox....23117.jpg?raw=1

Sorry, I didn't realize how bad the photo was till it was all assembled.

 

Optional steps 7 & 8

 

7: Using a knife, run the blade just underneath the face plate. Go around the entire circle and resist the urge to pry on.

 

https://www.dropbox....21152.jpg?raw=1

 

8: Take the ignition housing and rest it face down inside your empty container. You could also be crazy like me and hover it slightly over top of a tall clear container that is prone to falling over. Push on it until you see the spring and brass slide fall out. Once the two bits are safely collected, you can push out the pin and be spared the grief of spending 4hrs on your hands and knees.

 

https://www.dropbox....21406.jpg?raw=1

 

https://www.dropbox....21521.jpg?raw=1

 

https://www.dropbox....22206.jpg?raw=1

 

Cleaning

 

Everything but the lock cylinder, brass slide & pin:

 

9: Give them all a good scrub with the toothbrush and some brake clean. Make sure everything is nice and dry when you’re done.

 

Lock cylinder + spring & brass slide:

 

10: Slowly remove your key out of the lock cylinder while removing wafer gates along the way. Place the wafers down in order from inside to out. To clean them I just went over each with the toothbrush and some solvent.

 

https://www.dropbox....62316.jpg?raw=1

 

The springs can be difficult to get out, but with all the wafer gates removed from the lock cylinder you can just simply turn it over top of a small container and give it a bit of a shake. After you have collected all five of them, just add a little solvent and give it a bit of a swish. Remove them out of the container and put them somewhere safe to dry.

 

https://www.dropbox....15753.jpg?raw=1

 

With the lock cylinder now free of everything but the brass keeper. Give it a good wash in solvent and try to clear out the 20+ years of dirt that has been collecting. I’d give it a good once over with the brush to try and knock things out of every nook and cranny.

 

https://www.dropbox....15516.jpg?raw=1

 

Re-assembly

 

It would be cruel to just say “reverse the steps above” and leave it at that.

 

*Ignore step 11 if you didn’t do steps 7 & 8

 

11: Cover the pin in graphite powder and insert it back into the house just until you are about the cover the hole that holds the spring in place. Drop the spring and brass slide into the hole.

 

https://www.dropbox....22944.jpg?raw=1

 

Compress brass/spring assembly with a hobby knife and slide the pin back into the housing. Anchor the tip of the blade between the pin and housing so it is less likely to slip out of the way. After it is in, give the inside of the housing a quick dusting of powder before step 12.

https://www.dropbox....23013.jpg?raw=1

 

12: Assemble the lock cylinder and apply graphite powder. You can apply it as you assemble too, but it tends to make things slippery and your hands get covered in powder.

 

https://www.dropbox....23117.jpg?raw=1

 

13: I had trouble taking a photo of this step. You are going to slide the lock cylinder back into the ignition housing. The way I got it back in was to use a paper clip to compress the brass keeper that prevented you from taking it out at the start. Slide an unfolded paper clip into the key slot and rest the tip of it over the brass keeper as shown. Using your finger, compress the brass keeper with the paper clip. Use a bit of tape to mark how far the paper clip needs to be for you to find the keeper.

 

https://www.dropbox....73155.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox....73209.jpg?raw=1

 

Looking into the ignition housing you will see a larger slot then the rest. This pathway will allow you to compress the keeper with a paper clip while the brass wafers can float freely.

 

https://www.dropbox....23401.jpg?raw=1

 

If you didn’t do steps 7 & 8, this slot will be hard to see and you might have to compress each wafer past the face plate. If the paper clip slips off the brass keeper, don’t panic. Use that marking you made with the tape to help probe for the keeper again.

 

https://www.dropbox....23452.jpg?raw=1

 

Eventually you will get the lock cylinder deep enough that the paper clip will get pushed off the keeper and by that point it should be trapped on the other side. Sneak a peek from below to confirm that it is in place (Should look like it did in step 6)

 

14. Now, you can reverse the order of disassembly. The face plate will need to be glued again in place if you followed steps 7 & 8. I went with a thin layer of black gasket maker so it could be removed again if I wished.

 

15: Go have a beer.


Edited by Phracker, 07 June 2019 - 10:47 am.


#2 Favs

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Posted 07 June 2019 - 12:20 pm

15, Don't mind if I do. :drinks:

 

 

Great write up :clapping: Going to be V useful to some & a source of inspiration to others.


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#3 TKH

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Posted 07 June 2019 - 06:54 pm

Nicely detailed write-up with good piccies!



#4 PICARD

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Posted 08 June 2019 - 09:48 am

I love playing with locks (sado)....makes me want to go buy an ignition switch just to dismantle it !! Great write up and an inspiration. Thanks.
Lock onto my co-ordinates and beam me up !!

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#5 Pedro

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Posted 08 June 2019 - 10:47 am

Excellent write-up. could be handy for someone one day. Hopefully not me cos i'd end up with microscopic springs everywhere!

 

 




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