258 replies to this topic

[AlanG]

A quick question regarding TDM gearboxes in general. What is the normal amount of "noise" one can expect. Is it the tolerences on the straight cut gears that Generates noise ?

[fixitsan]

A quick question regarding TDM gearboxes in general. What is the normal amount of "noise" one can expect. Is it the tolerences on the straight cut gears that Generates noise ?

 

 

I was wondering if they were straight cut (my preference), given the tell-tale whine...... more noise but, more strength.

[Bjørge]

A quick question regarding TDM gearboxes in general. What is the normal amount of "noise" one can expect. Is it the tolerences on the straight cut gears that Generates noise ?

 

I have 2 kinds of noise:

- A slight whine probably (hopefully) coming from cogwheel teeth, not really annoying but deffo sounds like a pre-2000 vehicle 

- Shift clunking - sound slike forcing a bike into 1st gear at highway speeds. All the time. Almost.

[alexk243]

It does charge with the revs up, but at idle with the lights on it dips almost to the point of it dying

[AlanG]

I wondered if it was a characteristic of Dry sump engines in motor bikes. Maybe, there is not the volume of oil in the gearbox to act as a noise damper ?

[fixitsan]

It does charge with the revs up, but at idle with the lights on it dips almost to the point of it dying

I suppose you could also have a weak battery, as you asked about it earlier.

Does the starter spin positively when trying to start it ?

A good battery should be easily capable of running the bike while the alternator drops out

[alexk243]

It starts it fine and runs it without the stator, except if headlights are on... Then It drains fast and dies

[Bjørge]

It starts it fine and runs it without the stator, except if headlights are on... Then It drains fast and dies

A battery should keep engine and lights running for at least a coupla hours (ok, maybe 1 if you have double low beams).

14Ah * 12V = 168Wh

[fixitsan]

A battery should keep engine and lights running for at least a coupla hours (ok, maybe 1 if you have double low beams).

14Ah * 12V = 168Wh

 

 

Thats what i was thinking too...

 

A weak battery is capable of holding a realistically 'good' voltage often quite well, until you put it under load when the voltage collapses.

 

So even though it stands at , say 12.5V, and even though it might keep the engine running (very low current drain in the ignitor unit with intermittent 5A pulses for the coils) , when you put a constant significant load on it and the voltage drops quickly you need to suspect the battery

[Bjørge]

What about the rotor ? Won't give much output if e.g. rotor circuit is broken ?

[alexk243]

How do I check the rotor circuit? Still havent solved this, but it is getting better after running though all the electronics (found one bad connection, but was not the problem)

[JBX]

Did you guys mean the stator ?

 

The rotor is only a bunch of permanent magnets, not a lot to check there !

[Bjørge]

Did you guys mean the stator ?

 

The rotor is only a bunch of permanent magnets, not a lot to check there !

 

Oops, you're right ! Never saw that one before, thought alternator was of the same type as found in cars....

[alexk243]

So nothing left to check? best guess is a faulty brand new stator?

[alexk243]

So I am attacking this problem again this spring. Replaced; stator, wiring, voltage regulator, nothing changed... next is going to be upgrading the battery... 

[drewpy]

get a multimeter and test each component.

 

I bought a mosfet RR and its ace, along with a volt meter I can check on the move now as fitted heated grips and electric fuel pump

[alexk243]

ok, So battery replaced. Fuel pump swap done (R1), carbs rebuilt and back at it again... and same issue....

 

Even with the new battery its running about 12.5v when running, slowly charges with lights off and with headlights on it maintains/drains, depending on engine speed.

 

So everything on the charging system has been replaced except the magnets, and since I am assuming those don't really fail I have to assume that I got a faulty replacement stator... I may try another one and see if that does it, in addition to checking all wires. 

 

If anyone has any other thoughts to throw in let me know... I am at a loss. 

[fixitsan]

Stator, wiring to reg/rect, and the reg/rect itself ?

 

Next thing to check would be the earth connections, particularly at the ring terminals to the battery, where the individual conductors can break so that what looks like a good crimped terminal is actually a poor one. Also check the spade terminals from the rectifier for a similar problem. Any sign of overheating at any connectors in the main power circuit, such as darkened plastic or discoloured spade terminals ?

 

I think there's a fuse in the rectifier circuit, pull the fuse and check the fuse holder terminals for corrosion

 

 

A quick bypass test is to use a jump start cable directly between the negative terminal of the battery and the engine earth, and another on the frame too.

Edited by fixitsan, 08 May 2018 - 07:35 am.

[alexk243]

I added another ground line a while back just in case and I have also replaced the rectifier too... Where is that fuse located for it?