36 replies to this topic

[AlanG]

I've got set of Daytona heated grips to fit on my TDM 850. Not sure the preffable supply connection. They draw a max of 58 watts. I believe Yamaha did these as a factory fit so was a feed put in place ? Also does the alternator have enough power to run other electrical devices I.e heated vests etc ?

[fixitsan]

58W is just under 5Amps when they're on full power. If they have variable heat settings you can get that down to probably 2.5 Amps at half power.

 

Standard alternator is 280W ...Normal lighting will be under 150W. The cooling fan will draw 80W periodically. Ignition will draw about 20W. I'ld say you'll get away with it, and if the cooling fan comes on then you probably have no need for heated grips at that point anyway

[ChrisG]

My 900 has dealer fitted heated grips, and they took the feed from the front brake switch with no beefed up wiring or relay, so I'd have thought the wiring on a Mk2 ought to be able to cope in the same way, but personally I've put in a relay switched by the lights and connected straight back to the battery (with an inline fuse) to run my heated jacket and other stuff so I'm not risking putting too much current through the existing wiring

Edited by ChrisG, 21 February 2016 - 02:45 pm.

[AlanG]

Many thanks. I agree a relay should be fitted !

[jiff]

.....very attracted by the notion of wiring in heated grips so that they are off when the ignition is off...

I assume that wiring direct to the battery, with or without relay / fuse, would not satisfy that requirement, so would be grateful for
specific suggestions as to how / where to make the connection........

thanks , as ever, in anticipation.....Jiff.

[ChrisG]

A relay's the best solution Jiff, I never like running to much extra current through the bike's wiring as I don't want to melt anything.

I thought there was a writeup on fitting a relay in the Knowledgebase but I can't see one. General gist:

Nice thick cable from the +ve terminal of the battery, via an inline fuse holder (as close the battery as possible), to pin 30 on the relay (this is the power feed)

Thin wire from any switched live to pin 85 on the relay. If you have the relay under the seat the rear brake light switch is good for this, if you have it up front the parking light or front brake switch. This is the signal that tells the relay to close and takes very little current

Thin wire from pin 86 to earth, so connect to pretty much any black wire on the bike (think mine's on the lights) or bolt to the frame. This is the earth for the switching signal so again very little current flow.

Pin 87 in then your power output, wire this to your grips (or other accessories) with a suitably thick cable, and then earth the black wire on the grips by either attaching to the frame securely or tieing back to the battery.

I've got a step further and fitted an auxiliary fuse box
http://www.nippynorm...e-panel-fuz-fz1
This sits behind the side faring, has a built in relay, is wired to use the front parking light as a switch signal, and I then run my satnav, auxiliary lights, charging sockets, etc from there wityh individual fuses on each. The fuse has blown on my heated grips so I'm tempted to wire them up through the fuse box rather than just replacing their inline fuse.

Edited by ChrisG, 22 February 2016 - 08:14 am.

[fixitsan]

I drew this up for a friend. Replace the horn with your device to power. The wire for the horn switch just goes to your switched 12V wire

Edited by fixitsan, 22 February 2016 - 01:58 pm.

[BlueTwin]

Just a thought.  Could you use a caravan auxilliary charging relay (http://www.towingele...ays_caravan.php) for switching heated grips?  I think the solution is a bit more expensive than a relay (they are around a tenner I think) but there are fewer cuts and crimps required.  I already use one in the car to turn on and off a dash-cam with the engine where an ignition switched feed wasn't available.  They are rated to 20 or 30A and you just wire them in-line from your main 12V (not battery!).  All wiring needs to be rated for the maximum load and should always be protected by a fuse in the input power feed, located close to the source of power.

[tdmterje]

A relay's the best solution Jiff, I never like running to much extra current through the bike's wiring as I don't want to melt anything.

I thought there was a writeup on fitting a relay in the Knowledgebase but I can't see one. General gist:

Nice thick cable from the +ve terminal of the battery, via an inline fuse holder (as close the battery as possible), to pin 30 on the relay (this is the power feed)

Thin wire from any switched live to pin 85 on the relay. If you have the relay under the seat the rear brake light switch is good for this, if you have it up front the parking light or front brake switch. This is the signal that tells the relay to close and takes very little current

Thin wire from pin 86 to earth, so connect to pretty much any black wire on the bike (think mine's on the lights) or bolt to the frame. This is the earth for the switching signal so again very little current flow.

Pin 87 in then your power output, wire this to your grips (or other accessories) with a suitably thick cable, and then earth the black wire on the grips by either attaching to the frame securely or tieing back to the battery.

I've got a step further and fitted an auxiliary fuse box
http://www.nippynorm...e-panel-fuz-fz1
This sits behind the side faring, has a built in relay, is wired to use the front parking light as a switch signal, and I then run my satnav, auxiliary lights, charging sockets, etc from there wityh individual fuses on each. The fuse has blown on my heated grips so I'm tempted to wire them up through the fuse box rather than just replacing their inline fuse.

 

I`ve ordered this FZ-1, and got it yeserday. I`m a rookie with this, so I would apreciate some advice on where to place it. The easiest place, as I see it, is under the rear seat. It will then be easy to access. Did you have to take off the side faring when you mounted it, and everytime you connect a new device? Did you do somthing to make it more waterproof? 

[Apache]

Just a thought.  Could you use a caravan auxilliary charging relay (http://www.towingele...ays_caravan.php) for switching heated grips?  I think the solution is a bit more expensive than a relay (they are around a tenner I think) but there are fewer cuts and crimps required.  I already use one in the car to turn on and off a dash-cam with the engine where an ignition switched feed wasn't available.  They are rated to 20 or 30A and you just wire them in-line from your main 12V (not battery!).  All wiring needs to be rated for the maximum load and should always be protected by a fuse in the input power feed, located close to the source of power.

Yes you can. Get a TEC3M from t'internet. Battery plus and negative straight in. Grips negative in with the negative. Grips positive in to terminal that switches on engine running (TEC3M senses rising voltage). Ideal. If sat in traffic idling i.e. falling voltage. Grips will switch off until revs and voltage rise again.hth.

All appropriately fused of course....

Edited by Apache, 21 June 2017 - 03:11 pm.

[jiff]

I drew this up for a friend. Replace the horn with your device to power. The wire for the horn switch just goes to your switched 12V wire
horn.jpg

I followed this diagram when fitting twin Stebel Magnum horns (12A?, 30A fuse).....relay as shown.

Now I want to fit Oxford Commuter heated grips(3A)....to be powered only when the ignition is on, as are the horns.
(even though Oxford show grips wired direct to the battery)

now for the ‘silly boy ‘ question :
can I run the heated grips via the same relay, or do I need a separate relay for them (well out of my depth here)

either way, would be grateful for a nice diagram

Jiff.........and a Merry Christmas to All xxxxx

[Apache]

I followed this diagram when fitting twin Stebel Magnum horns (12A?, 30A fuse).....relay as shown.

Now I want to fit Oxford Commuter heated grips(3A)....to be powered only when the ignition is on, as are the horns.
(even though Oxford show grips wired direct to the battery)

now for the silly boy question :
can I run the heated grips via the same relay, or do I need a separate relay for them (well out of my depth here)

either way, would be grateful for a nice diagram

Jiff.........and a Merry Christmas to All xxxxx

No. Same trick but with an extra relay. Ignition feed to switch it.Use a micro relay to save space....hth. p.s. you could use a tec3m relay as described further back in the thread. No need for ignition feed. Had mine connected to one for years. Hth

Edited by Apache, 21 December 2017 - 02:51 pm.

[JBX]

Apache's answer is the theoretical right way to go, but I'd use the same relay because it is rated enough for both the horns & the heated grips with a large safety margin.

 

Main reason to use a common relay : (1) it's already there and works ok, (2) no extra power consumption, (3) fewer wiring/connectors and (4) less time to do the job.

 

More a matter of personal taste imho !

[Apache]

Apache's answer is the theoretical right way to go, but I'd use the same relay because it is rated enough for both the horns & the heated grips with a large safety margin.
 
Main reason to use a common relay : (1) it's already there and works ok, (2) no extra power consumption, (3) fewer wiring/connectors and (4) less time to do the job.
 
More a matter of personal taste imho !

He can't JBX. He used the diagram in his link and the relay output is dedicated to the horn. Sure, the relay has the capacity but it's already fully occupied with a task....

[fixitsan]

I followed this diagram when fitting twin Stebel Magnum horns (12A?, 30A fuse).....relay as shown.

Now I want to fit Oxford Commuter heated grips(3A)....to be powered only when the ignition is on, as are the horns.
(even though Oxford show grips wired direct to the battery)

now for the ‘silly boy ‘ question :
can I run the heated grips via the same relay, or do I need a separate relay for them (well out of my depth here)

either way, would be grateful for a nice diagram

Jiff.........and a Merry Christmas to All xxxxx

 

 

I have the same Oxford controller, and decided to tempt fate and not fit any relay because, as Oxford boasts, the grips switch themselves off even if you leave them on by mistake.

 

I have tested their claims, and sure enough after a couple of minutes of turning off the engine the grips shut themselves off, in theory, no relay required. They monitor the system voltage for noise and variation, and assumes that a long period without noise or change means the engine has been shut off and heating is no longer required

 

I do have a switched relay installed which i could have used but just threw them on quickly for a particularly cold day. i would prefer to run them from the relay but so far so good, they are working as described and the parasitic drain seems to be negligible

 

Edited by fixitsan, 21 December 2017 - 05:51 pm.

[JBX]

He can't JBX. He used the diagram in his link and the relay output is dedicated to the horn. Sure, the relay has the capacity but it's already fully occupied with a task....

 

Can't he ride with the horn always on ?

Should be a good safety policy...

 

I'm out...

[JBX]

 

 

I have the same Oxford controller, and decided to tempt fate and not fit any relay because, as Oxford boasts, the grips switch themselves off even if you leave them on by mistake.

 

I have tested their claims, and sure enough after a couple of minutes of turning off the engine the grips shut themselves off, in theory, no relay required. They monitor the system voltage for noise and variation, and assumes that a long period without noise or change means the engine has been shut off and heating is no longer required

 

I do have a switched relay installed which i could have used but just threw them on quickly for a particularly cold day. i would prefer to run them from the relay but so far so good, they are working as described and the parasitic drain seems to be negligible

 

 

I've used a car rear-window defrost relay for a stairway light : it is a very versatile device as it requires only a push-on / push-off button and the automatic switch-off delay can be adjusted (I've made it 80 sec).

 

Can also be used for heated grips very easily.

[jiff]

No. Same trick but with an extra relay. Ignition feed to switch it.Use a micro relay to save space....hth. p.s. you could use a tec3m relay as described further back in the thread. No need for ignition feed. Had mine connected to one for years. Hth

......told you I was out of my depth !

The Hotgrips wiring harness only offers me two wires,
one (5A fused) to the battery + ive, and the other to the battery -ive (or presumably to earth on the frame ?)
Both come from a block connector ‘after’ the ‘heat controller/on/off switch.
The schematic in the instructions implies that they are powered independently of the ignition.

The Hotgrips fitting instructions warn, ‘if it is necessary to power via the ignition’, of potential problems using either lighting or horn circuits ....but simply propose that it is connected to main ignition cabling which can take the extra load of up to 4A.
........nor do they mention use of a relay.
I’m happy / would prefer to use a relay as you suggest - would that protect me against such problems?
I’d be grateful for an indication / diagram as to how to connect the relay to enable overall on/off with the ignition

or alternatively, is there some other ignition controlled circuit that would be appropriate to use?

.......nursery steps please !......Jiff

[fixitsan]

Jiff, if the controller with leds is identical to the one in the video you can get by with a direct battery connection because they shut off automatically and cannot flatten the battery. They also have an inline fuse already in the wiring so that provides the safety protection

[jiff]

I have the same Oxford controller, and decided to tempt fate and not fit any relay because, as Oxford boasts, the grips switch themselves off even if you leave them on by mistake.
 

........maybe you have a superior version of the Hotgrips, I have the ‘Commuter’ version, and haven’t read that claim in the accompanying literature....indeed it says ‘please ensure that you remember to switch off the Hotgrips before leaving the vehicle....Oxford Products cannot accept any responsibility for flattened batteries ‘

Even more reason to wire via the ignition!.......(see above).....Jiff