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Well I've F##ked It


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#1 Dickiebig

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 06:52 pm

1995 3dv. Trying to take the top fork cap off and I have made a right mess. Any tips and anybody have one. Reason for the take down one of the mudguard lugs broke, it also appears the stantion is creased. Probably explains the broken lug!

#2 dapleb

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 07:42 pm

Pics?
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#3 Dickiebig

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 08:06 pm

https://photos.app.g...2Bg4mFt6sx4WcP7

Loosing the old temper not good

#4 chrisr

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 08:11 pm

A friend of mine had the same problem on a Triumph, I suggested loosening the yoke clamp, it worked for him. But I see your clamp is quite a distance away, so may not be the problem here.

Edited by chrisr, 07 February 2021 - 08:13 pm.

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#5 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 08:48 pm

Maybe try winding in the pre-load adjuster and then you'll be able to use a socket on the nut ?

 

EDIT: one complete fork here https://www.gn-moto....-1991-1995.html

 

and the other one here https://www.gn-moto....-1991-1995.html


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#6 Dickiebig

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 08:57 pm

I think it's going to be brute force and 24" stilsons. Stauntion has a crease at the back and the mudguard lip is also broken. Think it has had a shunt

#7 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 09:00 pm

Check my previous post again as I've just edited it. :)


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#8 Dickiebig

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 09:15 pm

Thanks guys, been beavering away on the net myself and one on its way fro France, slightly more money but in its way. So fingers crossed happy days.
Not comes in threes they say fell of my VTR 500 yards from home on new rubber. A lock issue and now this hopefull all done.
Scrapped paint on the VTR and scrapped knees on me!!!
To think 40 odd years ago I used to be a tire fitter and ran Avon Sm's on my bike!!!

#9 Sphere

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 09:18 pm

Have you tried a bit of heat?


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#10 Dickiebig

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 10:07 pm

Oh yeah, had a heat gun on it till it was smoking. Heat and stilsons next!!!

#11 Dickiebig

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Posted 09 February 2021 - 05:37 pm

Still f@@ked.  Slightly worried about going near the other one!   Nothing ventured nothing gained



#12 Catteeclan

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Posted 09 February 2021 - 06:35 pm

Prob a bit late but single hex sockets n spanners are pretty good for this sort of prob although that does sound stupid tight.


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#13 Dickiebig

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Posted 09 February 2021 - 07:50 pm

I went and bought a six sided long reach socket but that not gripping anymore..might resort to the hacksaw at this rate

#14 Catteeclan

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 06:00 pm

Bomb the bastad.


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#15 fixitsan

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 06:55 pm

get the flame torch on it. It can't seize if it's a liquid


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#16 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 09:17 am

:lol: Quality advice there from 2 of our more experienced mechanics.


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#17 leehenty

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 09:46 am

Try freezer spray on nut then heat stanchion
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#18 fixitsan

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 09:51 am

:lol: Quality advice there from 2 of our more experienced mechanics.

 

 

Absolutely !

 

Number of hours spent + cost of tools damaged + (potential time spent in A&E) + cost of parts required to rebuild the part which got damaged in the removal process .

 

 

Minus the cost and time to get a secondhand one.....

 

 

Having said that. I know what it's like to feel like a seized thread is laughing at you !


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#19 fixitsan

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 09:56 am

Try freezer spray on nut then heat stanchion

 

I thought that too, it's the scientific approach...... :)

 

 

What about standing it upside down in a bowl of penetrating fluid, even old brake fluid, which penetrates very well and loosens some types of corrosion .  After a day or two something might finally let go.   (I keep a tub of old brake fluid from brake bleeding sessions for this sort of thing


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#20 Dickiebig

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 01:49 am

Thanks guys will try the brake fluid trick. Freezer spray on shopping list


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