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Timing Chain


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#1 mgml

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 11:33 am

Been through loads of threads on here and looked at the service manual (handbook say nowt) but can't see any description of adjusting the timing chain. 

 

I assumed you'd just remove the tensioner bolt, and use a screwdriver to take up any slack? This a bit simplistic or what? Or is it self adjusting with the bolt itself maintaining tension?  Service manual shows pictures of the tensioner out of the block and seemingly being adjusted/tested for smooth movement. 

 

It also seems you shouldn't remove the tensioner at all unless you're at TDC on left cylinder.  Tension seems ok anyway at present (19,000 miles) no noises that I can hear, but if it was a quick adjustment job then I was going to do it.


Edited by mgml, 12 August 2018 - 11:37 am.


#2 James

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 12:54 pm

It’s an automatic, self-adjusting tensioner.

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#3 mgml

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 03:16 pm

So, replace it when f****d indicated by cam chain rattles.



#4 fixitsan

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Posted 12 August 2018 - 09:20 pm

I recently changed mine, despite no nasty noises I think it had done 100000 miles. There was enough wear in the change to cause a couple of degrees of change to the timing.


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#5 Hombre

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Posted 13 August 2018 - 04:56 pm

http://www.tdm-yamah...ex.php?page=TEN

 

From the link to JBX's excellent site;

 

"Some TDM900 models from 2002 to 2004 have a problem with the cam-chain tensioner. There is no specific mileage at which the problem appears, it seems more to be linked with the way the engine is used (low rpm mainly). Anyway it all appears one day : a clicking & rattling noise coming from the cam-chain from time to time, then more frequently. When it occurs, it is time to change the tensioner asap or the cam-chain may jump, leading to a major valves failure and a hole in your wallet !

Yamaha is aware of the problem : the tensioner was changed in 2005. The new tensioner looks externally the same (although it is not) but the internal part is different : the spring and the casing are much bigger. This allows a longer travel to the shaft, which was not long enough with the old part. The part numbers were changed too : the old tensioner bears part # 5PS-12210-00, the new tensioner bears part # 5PS-12210-10 (trailing number 10 stands for modified part)."


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#6 mgml

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 05:04 pm

I recently changed mine, despite no nasty noises I think it had done 100000 miles. There was enough wear in the change to cause a couple of degrees of change to the timing.

Had your monies worth out of that one then.

 

http://www.tdm-yamah...ex.php?page=TEN

 

From the link to JBX's excellent site;

 

"Some TDM900 models from 2002 to 2004 have a problem with the cam-chain tensioner. There is no specific mileage at which the problem appears, it seems more to be linked with the way the engine is used (low rpm mainly). Anyway it all appears one day : a clicking & rattling noise coming from the cam-chain from time to time, then more frequently. When it occurs, it is time to change the tensioner asap or the cam-chain may jump, leading to a major valves failure and a hole in your wallet !

Yamaha is aware of the problem : the tensioner was changed in 2005. The new tensioner looks externally the same (although it is not) but the internal part is different : the spring and the casing are much bigger. This allows a longer travel to the shaft, which was not long enough with the old part. The part numbers were changed too : the old tensioner bears part # 5PS-12210-00, the new tensioner bears part # 5PS-12210-10 (trailing number 10 stands for modified part)."

Yeah read that.  I'll do nowt till I need to.



#7 fixitsan

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 06:17 am

Had your monies worth out of that one then.

 

 

 

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#8 thelodger

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 08:12 am

Fixitsan says the chain wear changed the timing by 2 degrees. Out of interest would a worn chain advance or retard the ignition?



#9 fixitsan

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 09:38 am

Fixitsan says the chain wear changed the timing by 2 degrees. Out of interest would a worn chain advance or retard the ignition?

 

The ignition timing stays the same relative to the crank position. The valve timing is retarded, later opening and later closing

 

It is easy to think of the TDM engine as a bit agricultural, however if two were grafted together you would have a 4 cylinder 20-valve engine with an output of over 170HP, which for a normally aspirated engine is pretty hot, by anyone's standard.

 

At those performance levels most tuners consider cam timing to be an important parameter. On a single cam low state of tune engine it isn't so important, but this engine is much more than that, and I consider valve timing to be important.

 

One thing I've observed from tests is that the fuel injectors fire before the inlet vale opens. This is done for a variety of performance related reasons. The engine has a cylinder identification sensor which runs from one of the cam, but I haven't been able to establish if injector timing is run from the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor.

 

Ignition timing should always be tied to crank position, and I'm inclined to think that injector timing is also timed to the crank with this engine..

 

Retardation of exhaust valve opening can  cause a loss of power because of the resistance presented to the rising piston when the exhaust valve doesn't open soon enough.

 

The 3 inlet valves open at different times, the middle valve opens slightly earlier than the two outer ones (per cylinder) if this is delayed by a worn chain then the early opening of the middle valve, often done to cause acceleration of the air in the intake tract before the partner valves open, is not as beneficial due to the changed timing.

 

From observation the inlet sound especially around 3500-4000rpm is more raspy now since changing the chain. I have no idea if there is any increase in power, I do think it is a good idea though to run the engine with valve timing most like that which it was delivered with from the factory, because they seemed to know what they were doing.


Edited by fixitsan, 15 August 2018 - 09:55 am.

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#10 Nog

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 11:16 am

One thing I've observed from tests is that the fuel injectors fire before the inlet vale opens. This is done for a variety of performance related reasons.

 

This is common for non-direct injection engines, mainly done to keep the valves cool.  Hitting hot inlet valves with the fuel causes the fuel to vaporise which takes a lot of heat from the valves and prevents them overheating.  Then you also have a pre-vaporised mixture ready for inlet.

 

Interesting the centre valve opens first, probably explains why the centre one is nice and clean (in mine anyway) and the two side valves are a lot dirtier, so I presume the middle valve gets more exposure to the fuel mix for this reason which in turn keeps it cleaner.




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