Guys,
Has anyone had experience of using these rechargeable floodlights as I'm thinking of getting a couple for mine as I've no power in it. It's a normal size garage and just wanting enough light to work 3/4 hrs at a time in it under cover.
Any help or advice would be welcome.
Rechargeable Floodlights For Garage?
Started by
Latestarter
, Dec 04 2016 02:34 pm
15 replies to this topic
#1
Latestarter
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 02:34 pm
2003 TDM900 in Galaxy Blue with 32k on the clock
Scottolier, TDM Gel Saddle, Blue HEL Brake Line Upgrade Feeding Blue Spot Callipers. Air Intake Mod,
Oxford Heated Grips, Polisport Handguards, RM-G Crash bars & Centre Stand, Givi
Touring & Double Bubble Screens, Bar Risers, Renthal 755 Riser Bars,
Givi E22N Panniers & Top Box, Clear Indicator Lens Conversation, Clear LED Rear Light Conversion, Mirror Extenders, TDM Stainless Radiator Cover and Stainless Screen Screws, SP Performance Carbon Tri-Oval Cans, HID Headlight Upgrade, DRL Spotlights and Still Spending But Dont Tell The Wife!!
#2
drewpy
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 04:47 pm
links?
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#3
divvxj
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 05:30 pm
sausages
#4
Favs
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 05:31 pm
One of my mates uses something like these on his cherry pickers & reckons they're great. http://www.ebay.co.u...fMAAOSwEetV8Apx
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#5
Latestarter
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 05:34 pm
The word 'these' used in the wrong context.. sorry. I wasn't asking about any particular model.
2003 TDM900 in Galaxy Blue with 32k on the clock
Scottolier, TDM Gel Saddle, Blue HEL Brake Line Upgrade Feeding Blue Spot Callipers. Air Intake Mod,
Oxford Heated Grips, Polisport Handguards, RM-G Crash bars & Centre Stand, Givi
Touring & Double Bubble Screens, Bar Risers, Renthal 755 Riser Bars,
Givi E22N Panniers & Top Box, Clear Indicator Lens Conversation, Clear LED Rear Light Conversion, Mirror Extenders, TDM Stainless Radiator Cover and Stainless Screen Screws, SP Performance Carbon Tri-Oval Cans, HID Headlight Upgrade, DRL Spotlights and Still Spending But Dont Tell The Wife!!
#6
Apache
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 05:54 pm
Screw fix rechargeable 23w led worklight mounted on a stand with handle. 2 light levels. Great product but £30. Screw fix code 7042K. 6 to 8 hrs between charge.
Just checked favs link and it's basically the same. Screwfix cheaper because it's 23w but it's more than enough light. I have one in the garage and use them at my work too.
Just checked favs link and it's basically the same. Screwfix cheaper because it's 23w but it's more than enough light. I have one in the garage and use them at my work too.
#7
Pedro
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 06:14 pm
i've got the same problem in my garage. i use two old van batteries and an 8w solar charger stuck to a window and a couple of 12v bulbs. barely enough light to see what i'm doing. i never realised there were such things as rechargable floodlights! just the solution to my problems. cheers!
#8
TYREDNGRUMPEE
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 07:09 pm
One of my mates uses something like these on his cherry pickers & reckons they're great. http://www.ebay.co.u...fMAAOSwEetV8Apx
Aim this away from your work area into a tight corner between two walls and the ceiling. The reflected light alone, fills the entire space. 
#9
Latestarter
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 08:09 pm
So is it all about w size, 10w, 20w 50w etc. So the more watts the better the light?
I know it's the obvious answer with normal bulbs/lights but not sure about led rechargeables.
I know it's the obvious answer with normal bulbs/lights but not sure about led rechargeables.
2003 TDM900 in Galaxy Blue with 32k on the clock
Scottolier, TDM Gel Saddle, Blue HEL Brake Line Upgrade Feeding Blue Spot Callipers. Air Intake Mod,
Oxford Heated Grips, Polisport Handguards, RM-G Crash bars & Centre Stand, Givi
Touring & Double Bubble Screens, Bar Risers, Renthal 755 Riser Bars,
Givi E22N Panniers & Top Box, Clear Indicator Lens Conversation, Clear LED Rear Light Conversion, Mirror Extenders, TDM Stainless Radiator Cover and Stainless Screen Screws, SP Performance Carbon Tri-Oval Cans, HID Headlight Upgrade, DRL Spotlights and Still Spending But Dont Tell The Wife!!
#10
Latestarter
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Posted 04 December 2016 - 10:48 pm
Gonna go for one of these badboys, try one first then if I need another will pick it up ... great reviews!
http://www.screwfix....tails_container
Will let you know how I get on chaps.
http://www.screwfix....tails_container
Will let you know how I get on chaps.
2003 TDM900 in Galaxy Blue with 32k on the clock
Scottolier, TDM Gel Saddle, Blue HEL Brake Line Upgrade Feeding Blue Spot Callipers. Air Intake Mod,
Oxford Heated Grips, Polisport Handguards, RM-G Crash bars & Centre Stand, Givi
Touring & Double Bubble Screens, Bar Risers, Renthal 755 Riser Bars,
Givi E22N Panniers & Top Box, Clear Indicator Lens Conversation, Clear LED Rear Light Conversion, Mirror Extenders, TDM Stainless Radiator Cover and Stainless Screen Screws, SP Performance Carbon Tri-Oval Cans, HID Headlight Upgrade, DRL Spotlights and Still Spending But Dont Tell The Wife!!
#11
Apache
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Posted 05 December 2016 - 08:50 am
It'll be more than adequate latestarter
#12
fixitsan
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Posted 05 December 2016 - 09:39 am
So is it all about w size, 10w, 20w 50w etc. So the more watts the better the light?
I know it's the obvious answer with normal bulbs/lights but not sure about led rechargeables.
It's still the same, with the added benefit that LED's tend to be much more efficient than tungsten filament bulbs (which waste a huge percentage of electricity as heat)
Watts = Amps X Volts.
A 50W 12V filament (incandescent) bulb will draw just over 4Amps of current....and an LED bulb will too. But you will probably have noticed that LED day running light's can be wired directly into the lighting harness in most cases, without any additional wiring, because to produce the same light output (measured in Lumens) as a filament bulb they use much less current
That lower current demand is what makes rechargeable batteries last longer than using filament bulbs in this sort of application
As an example, an incandescent 60W bulb creates about 800 Lumens of light output. To get the same amount of light from an LED source you will use about 6-8W of electrical power....so you can work ona rough 1:10 light output ratio.... a !00W filament bulb can be replaced with a 10W LED....althought the light patterns, and colours can be quite different.
A solar panel on the roof, an old car battery and couple of cheap LED drl's would serve you well....but not as compact, simple to use or robust and portable as the Screwfix examples given already !
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#13
Bjørge
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Posted 05 December 2016 - 10:06 am
...and the best things about LED worklights: a) They don't go dark every time they're shaken, and b) The lack of heat avoids fire and excessive temperatures. I bought a 40W LED worklight a short while ago - prolly my best investment ever.
Bjørge
#14
steve27bha
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Posted 06 December 2016 - 05:26 pm
Gonna go for one of these badboys, try one first then if I need another will pick it up ... great reviews!
http://www.screwfix....tails_container
Will let you know how I get on chaps.
That looks as if you could undo the lamp unit from the yellow base and then screw it to the wall or roof.
However you'd then have a problem moving it to a charging point - hmmm.
Quick-release screw of some sort?
Ideas on a postcard.....
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with 
CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
#15
CaptainSlow
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Posted 07 December 2016 - 09:12 am
I put some of these LED self-adhesive strips up at the wife's livery yard, connected to an old car battery and a cheap solar charger from Maplin. Needs a top-up charge halfway through the season but otherwise it's self-sustaining. I even found an old RF remote control for it! Lovely and bright, and if you don't mind a bit of soldering you can cut the strips into smaller sections to spread them out. I use waste Cat5 cable to join them.
https://goo.gl/photo...iWw2zGnyTNZ29W6
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#16
ChrisG
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Posted 07 December 2016 - 10:57 am
That looks as if you could undo the lamp unit from the yellow base and then screw it to the wall or roof.
However you'd then have a problem moving it to a charging point - hmmm.
Quick-release screw of some sort?
Ideas on a postcard.....
A couple of pipe brackets on the wall and you could just slot the mounting frame in and lift it straight out when you want to charge it.
23W should be plenty, I've got a pair of 20W LED spots on the bike and they're brighter than the headlight.
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now 
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