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#1 gozer

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Posted 28 January 2023 - 02:37 pm

I`ve stripped, reprayed and rebuilt the master cylinder and all seems to be working ok but the brakes are still dragging too much to pass an mot. I guess it`s gonna have to be a caliper rebuild next :rant: . Will the pistons have enough room to come out without having to split the calipers??

Also, if they are split, do I need specific O rings for the  crossovers, or are generic O rings ok?


Edited by gozer, 28 January 2023 - 02:41 pm.


#2 SirRealEd

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Posted 29 January 2023 - 03:56 pm

I`ve stripped, reprayed and rebuilt the master cylinder and all seems to be working ok but the brakes are still dragging too much to pass an mot. I guess it`s gonna have to be a caliper rebuild next :rant: . Will the pistons have enough room to come out without having to split the calipers??

Also, if they are split, do I need specific O rings for the  crossovers, or are generic O rings ok?

 

Do you still have the original rubber brake lines?  Sometimes they can deteriorate and act like check valves prevent fluid from getting back to the master cylinder freely.

 

I've had pretty good luck with removing the pads and pumping the pistons out a little bit and cleaning up the pistons with a soft brush and adding a little rubber lubricant to the seals, then pushing the piston back into the caliper.  Do this a couple times and it might free up nicely.

 

If you know the seal dimensions, you might find seals from an industrial source.  Chemical compatibility is a factor.  You might have to buy in bulk.  Might be cheaper and easier to use OEM seals.  Flush your brakes annually and you might be good for 20 years.



#3 dapleb

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Posted 29 January 2023 - 04:03 pm

If ewe search powerhouse it'll find ewe a thread with lots of info. They do noice piston and seal kits including calipot arf seals
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#4 dablik

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Posted 29 January 2023 - 10:49 pm

Yup pistons will come out okay, generic O'rings no good, caliper pot ones are more flat in profile, loike a rubber band.


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#5 leehenty

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Posted 30 January 2023 - 12:09 pm

Caliper seals have a square or rectangular profile
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#6 gozer

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Posted 30 January 2023 - 01:51 pm

 

Do you still have the original rubber brake lines?  Sometimes they can deteriorate and act like check valves prevent fluid from getting back to the master cylinder freely.

 

I've had pretty good luck with removing the pads and pumping the pistons out a little bit and cleaning up the pistons with a soft brush and adding a little rubber lubricant to the seals, then pushing the piston back into the caliper.  Do this a couple times and it might free up nicely.

 

 

Yes, still got OE hoses but the flow seems good back to the master cylinder when I push the pistons back. I`ve had the pistons in and out more times than a fiddlers elbow and cleaned them each time. It seems that three out of the eight are a bit  more sluggish to return so probably a build up of muck between the dust seal and the piston seal causing the issue is my guess. More unexpected arsing about it is then :rolleyes:

 

Yup pistons will come out okay, generic O'rings no good, caliper pot ones are more flat in profile, loike a rubber band.

 

Caliper seals have a square or rectangular profile

Thanks for clarification chaps :good:



#7 gozer

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Posted 02 February 2023 - 03:11 pm

I can`t for love nor money get the pistons out of the calipers so I`ll have to split them. Not had to split a caliper before so when I put the two halves back together, is there a recommended torque for the joining bolts? I don`t see one anywhere in the manual, or is it just a case of wind them in until they stop and then nip them up a quarter turn?

I don`t wanna find out I`ve done summat wrong as I`m approaching a bus/lamp post/brick wall at a rate of knots!!!  :unsure2:



#8 dapleb

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Posted 02 February 2023 - 03:45 pm

Thread on ear talks abooot getting pistons ooot and torquing arfs. Search "pistoons".
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#9 Catteeclan

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Posted 02 February 2023 - 04:44 pm

Must be well tight if you can"t get them out with brake lever.


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#10 Favs

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Posted 02 February 2023 - 06:20 pm

Just had a look in the shed and woohoo  left over from when I swapped to blue spots -  I have both standard front calipers from my Mk2A and the hoses and they have the original black plastic caps over the pads too. Just in case it all goes belly up :good: Now you know this - all will go fine :) 

 

Also is present Mk1 headlight glass/lense + gear lever.- I think I'll have a proper looksee tomorrow for owtelze


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2008 reg. Black TDM 900 ABS

 

 

 


#11 Snowbird

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Posted 03 February 2023 - 06:18 am

I also have a full front mk2a front stopperiser system in my shed so spares are available if it all goes tits up.
So you should be fine, the curse is broken.

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#12 gozer

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Posted 04 February 2023 - 01:26 pm

This brake fixing lark is more of a turdfest than it ought to be. I got the left one on the bench as I couldn`t get the pistons out far enough with the lever and I tried a pair of those piston pliers that go inside the piston, about as much use as a chocolate teapot! Caliper split, a big wodge of inner tube and a substantial pair of pliers, and with a fair bit of tugging and swearing, the outer pistons came out. The inners were a different matter. No amount of pushing, pulling, twisting or screaming C@#T at them worked so off to beg the use of a big compressor it was. With about 140 psi squirted in through the bleed nipple hole they eventually came out, very sssslllloooowwwwllllyyyy ! After a lot of faffing blocking holes and about 10 mins of big psi, there was a couple of loud pops and they were out.

Now the strange thing is that it all looks ok. No piston damage and the bores are unmarked. The only iffy bits are in the grooves. There is a lot of crud in the dust seal groove which is pretty resistant to scraping with a pick, and there is what looks like a lot of crystalised brake fluid in the seal groove, but certainly nothing that looks like it should have made them so feckin` hard to remove! Question, is it worth soaking them in brake cleaner / acetone / petrol / bleach or other random liquids to try and soften the crud in the seal groove or is it a case of mega patience and careful scraping to get them clean? I hope the other one is less of a bast. As I`ve gone this far I don`t want to let the bastards beat me!!!

 

 

Just had a look in the shed and woohoo  left over from when I swapped to blue spots -  I have both standard front calipers from my Mk2A and the hoses and they have the original black plastic caps over the pads too. Just in case it all goes belly up :good: Now you know this - all will go fine :)

 

Also is present Mk1 headlight glass/lense + gear lever.- I think I'll have a proper looksee tomorrow for owtelze

 

I also have a full front mk2a front stopperiser system in my shed so spares are available if it all goes tits up.
So you should be fine, the curse is broken.

Thank you chaps, at least I know I have an exit strategy before I get to insanity and use of a sledge hammer! :good:



#13 Catteeclan

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Posted 04 February 2023 - 07:12 pm

I've always scraped it out. Seems a bit butcherist while all the lumps are falling out but does the job.
Be interested to hear if anyone has a better way too. 


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#14 Snowbird

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Posted 04 February 2023 - 07:24 pm

A belt sander and bits of old hacksaw blade can make some very handy shaped scrapers for groove cleaning.

Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

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#15 curlylegend

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Posted 04 February 2023 - 10:03 pm

A belt sander and bits of old hacksaw blade can make some very handy shaped scrapers for groove cleaning.

 Any kind of Dremel tool and a selection of rotary wire wheels usually do the trick.



#16 dablik

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Posted 05 February 2023 - 10:47 am

I'm with curly, done them quite a number of times, dremel makes it easy, these and Bluespots need regular attention and they work lubberly... good luck, half way their  :good:


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#17 Favs

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Posted 05 February 2023 - 05:20 pm

Living on a prayer ... ooohhh aaahh

Single-handedly reviving the Wave.

 

2008 reg. Black TDM 900 ABS

 

 

 


#18 dablik

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Posted 05 February 2023 - 08:51 pm

Living on a prayer ... ooohhh aaahh

:lol:


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#19 gozer

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 06:00 pm

The right hand side was half as sticky again as the left with no obvious reason but all done now. There is still a bit more of a spongy feel at the lever than I would like but that`s most likely the OE hoses so braided lines are on the list,

 

 Any kind of Dremel tool and a selection of rotary wire wheels usually do the trick.

 

I'm with curly, done them quite a number of times, dremel makes it easy, these and Bluespots need regular attention and they work lubberly... good luck, half way their  :good:

I went down the dremel route and it worked a treat so thanks for the tip guys.  :good:

Onward to the next disaster now1



#20 jamy

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Posted 17 July 2023 - 04:03 pm

Hope it isn't an issue reviving this thread as I am about to service the front brakes on my TDM 900A.

 

I have no real worries about undertaking the work, my only issue is: how do I avoid getting air in the lines, and subsequently ABS system, when removing the calipers?

 

Any advice and tips would be more than welcome.

 

James.




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