After last nights heavy rain, I think I need to bite the bullet and do the waterproofing of the HT system thing. It's definitely not happy in heavy road spray and I do already have a front fender extender and rear hugger fitted.
It might well be time to renew the HT leads, the bike is now on 37½k miles
So, I need to get the tank off. Mr. Haynes & his lovely Manuel talks about a lot of fairing dismantling before getting to the tank but I was wondering how much of it is really necessary.
TIA for any useful tips.
Mark.
Tank Removal On A Mk2 850
Started by
Mark
, Jul 10 2008 11:32 am
6 replies to this topic
#2
robelst
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Posted 10 July 2008 - 11:49 am
Just take off the side panels (3 bolts and pin in rubber at each side), easy enough. There are a 2 bolts in the frame (one on each side) and one under the seat that hold the tank. You probably don't want to completely remove the tank, you either lift it or turn it 90 or 180 degrees, resting on the rear subframe: That will save you taking fuel hoses and fuel-gauge wiring off. Note the little tubes that come easily off under the tank (breather and overfill-drain hose). I replaced the plugleads (NGK) and taped in the coils (not sure if that really helps but I was at it anyway); my TDM is 100% waterproof, unless it's around freezing when there's a little tendency to carb-cing. I use an additive to prevent that, but not really needed at this time of year (not even in our climate 
)
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That was not a banana, Dougal
#3
Mark
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discovering Carpe
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Posted 10 July 2008 - 01:22 pm
Thanks for that, sounds like it's fairly straightforward.
Interested to read about the NGK plug leads. Were these a straight swap for the OE Yamaha ones?
Mark.
Interested to read about the NGK plug leads. Were these a straight swap for the OE Yamaha ones?
Mark.
#4
robelst
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Posted 10 July 2008 - 05:25 pm
QUOTE(Mark @ Thu 10th Jul 2008, 02:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for that, sounds like it's fairly straightforward.Interested to read about the NGK plug leads. Were these a straight swap for the OE Yamaha ones?Mark.
Yes, I ordered them on-line, just picking the make & model and in the basket they went. 
They even fitted when they arrived. It's a while ago but I think I got them from Busters.By the way: Once the tank is off you may be slightly disappointed by the fact that the airbox still covers much of the area where the coils and leads can be found. If you want to remove that, then its really easy too: Just loosen the clamps on the carbs and remove a bolt at the top and pull it off. This unit also has some hoses connected to it but nothing to worry about. Maybe a good opportunity to check on the air-filter?
That was not a banana, Dougal
#5
Guest_Pantboy_*
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Posted 10 July 2008 - 05:46 pm
while your in there, you may also want to unplug and clean up ALL the connector blocks cos they are probably starting to fur up a little by 37k
the only thing that prevented my 850 from cutting out in the wet was the addition of a plastic deflector which is gaffa taped to the air box and stops the water running off the petrol tank from soaking the coils (thanks to bn2tdm)
the only thing that prevented my 850 from cutting out in the wet was the addition of a plastic deflector which is gaffa taped to the air box and stops the water running off the petrol tank from soaking the coils (thanks to bn2tdm)
#6
wicklamulla
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- Location:Parish of Cruwys (pronounced 'Cruise' just loike Tom) Morchard, Mid Devon.
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Posted 10 July 2008 - 07:07 pm
my length of HT lead cost £2 fer 2 meters, simply cut off what ya need and screw fit them to the plug caps and coils. Oh and check/adjust yer TPS since yer under the tank.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
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#7
bondy
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850 going for 900
- Location:Overton. Hampshire, UK
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Posted 13 July 2008 - 06:12 pm
QUOTE(Mark @ Thu 10th Jul 2008, 12:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
After last nights heavy rain, I think I need to bite the bullet and do the waterproofing of the HT system thing. It's definitely not happy in heavy road spray and I do already have a front fender extender and rear hugger fitted.
It might well be time to renew the HT leads, the bike is now on 37½k miles
So, I need to get the tank off. Mr. Haynes & his lovely Manuel talks about a lot of fairing dismantling before getting to the tank but I was wondering how much of it is really necessary.
TIA for any useful tips.
Mark.
It might well be time to renew the HT leads, the bike is now on 37½k miles
So, I need to get the tank off. Mr. Haynes & his lovely Manuel talks about a lot of fairing dismantling before getting to the tank but I was wondering how much of it is really necessary.
TIA for any useful tips.
Mark.
Make sure you put the fuel lines back the right way round or you'll look a twonk like me when you run out of fuel on the RTT
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