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Fast Idle Plunger Repair (TDM 900) [ie Cold Start ]


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#21 catsbum

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Posted 03 October 2008 - 08:06 pm

Just read this. Well done that man. clapping.gif

#22 Baron

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 12:03 pm

QUOTE(CatsBum @ Fri 3rd Oct 2008, 08:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Just read this. Well done that man. clapping.gif

I found the lazy blokes way of addressing the problem.....here
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#23 treadman

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 04:17 pm

last week i did the job as described , took the bike out for a run , everthing was rosy, until today when thetickover rose to 2000 again, on getting home i whipped the the tank and airbox out of the way and took of the fast idler again, the pin is sliding like a good un , so what else can be causing the fast tickover,i loosely put the bike back together and started her up, theb rev,s dropped ok but rose steadily as the engine got hotter,about 1700 revs s the fan kicked in the revs rose a little more, is this what you would expect when the bikes sat still in the garage,am i just panicking.
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#24 Guest_E.T._*

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 08:30 pm

Is the spring pulling the adjuster back in again, after the plunger has pushed it out?


Did you adjust the idle speed to compensate for the plunger not working, and haven't readjusted it after fixing?



#25 treadman

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 09:32 pm

Hi ET, no i didn,t adjust the tickover , to be honest i don,t know how to,as for the pin being pulled back , i will have a look tomorrow, what actually happens ,inside the fast idle plunger can you describe the way it works.
Neil

#26 dandywarhol

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 10:52 pm

QUOTE(treadman @ Sun 9th Nov 2008, 09:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi ET, no i didn,t adjust the tickover , to be honest i don,t know how to,as for the pin being pulled back , i will have a look tomorrow, what actually happens ,inside the fast idle plunger can you describe the way it works.
Neil


A wax filled element (which expands as it heats up) pushes the pin. Problem can be that the stainless steel pin and alloy housing can corrode together. Mine did that - pulled it apart, cleaned it up, lubed with coppaslip and the jobs a goodun!

Edited by dandywarhol, 09 November 2008 - 10:54 pm.

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#27 divvxj

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 09:20 am

there must be something in the air as mine has developed the same symptoms over the weekend ,needed 2 prods on the starter button and it idled at 1000revs once warmed up it was sitting at 1500,is this normal,and will i be busy at the weekend trying to push the plunger back in,

#28 divvxj

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 09:28 am

just as an after thought ,i sprayed the bike with acf50 last weekend ,is it possible that this has got on to the plunger and attracted crud on to it and stuck it ??? or would it more likely be corrosion on the inside

#29 treadman

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 05:15 pm

Hi lads,well i have just put the airbox back on, after pointlessly stripping the idler cos i know i did a good job 1st time round , anyway i fired her up and once agian eveything is ok ,the revs sit at 1600 then fall to 1200,perfect, the thing is after doing a good job the 1st time ,how come the revs went back to 2000.thats after about 75mls of riding.
Anyway, i,ll put all the plastic on tomorrow and see what the weekend brings, thanks lads ,i will keep you informed.
Safe riding
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#30 Guest_E.T._*

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 07:44 pm

Yeah what Dandy said...its exactly the same as a thermostatic radiator valve at home



#31 divvxj

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 09:52 am

if i can reach the plunger with a pair of curved pliars would i be able to push the plunger in and then give it a good soak with oil!!!!!

#32 treadman

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 09:35 pm

hi lads,just a quickie, i have been keeping an eye on the level of coolant in the expansion bottle, is up and down like a you know what, i fell into the trap of topping up to the lower level before, when the level was low, but i know now that whats gone from the bottle will return and cause an overflow, so just leave it to sort its self out.
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#33 divvxj

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Posted 16 November 2008 - 03:53 pm

i sprayed the idler unit with wd on friday and let it soak in ,this morning i had a poke around and then fired up the bike and every thing seems to be working fine ,let it warm up and it settled down to a nice even tick over about 1100-1200 revs but will have to see what it is like after my daily commute tomorrow

#34 divvxj

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 08:49 am

way hay ,working fine ,but i will keep my eye on it yahoo.gif

#35 wicklamulla

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 01:06 pm

is it pissible to shroud the fast idle mech to help prevent seizing or is it a case of giving it a quick squirt of WD every now and then ?

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#36 divvxj

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 08:52 pm

to follow on from the last message would wd40 suffice or would a thicker oil be better help.gif

#37 Guest_E.T._*

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 09:31 pm

I have a sneaky suspicion that the corrosion is electrolytic, the differnce between the stainless pin and the alloy body, producing a small current (a battery) and corroding that way. That's why I stuck copper grease on mine, as this would stop this happening. I'm not sure that WD would do this?

#38 divvxj

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 07:24 am

ok ,will try and put copper grease on at the weekend drinks.gif

#39 divvxj

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Posted 23 November 2008 - 12:01 pm

good.gif one week later and everything is A ok,(apart from the 5 inches of snow that is)let her warm up and tickover comes down nicely ,and now for some grease ,and i will keep my eye on the tacho for any tell tale signs good.gif

#40 Guest_Kelpie_*

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Posted 14 December 2008 - 12:09 pm

Had a look at the cold start thingy yesterday. It's moving freely, but it's not moving left when the bike's warm. Sounds like the wax element is fupped. Now what? unsure.gif


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