Recommended Oil?
#1
Posted 02 April 2010 - 05:20 pm
Follow my 2013 Pyrenees tour on http://pyreneestdm.tumblr.com
#2
Posted 02 April 2010 - 05:26 pm
#3
Posted 02 April 2010 - 05:56 pm
Agree. Their mineral is good as well, although they rarely seem to stock that these days. HG often do good deals as well (including Silkolene or Motul).
Some experiment with cheaper car-oil which could work well but there is always some risk in clutch operation. Unless your bike uses more oil than fuel it doesn't seem worth the risk when compared to basic motorcycle oil.
There seems little point in investing in very expensive bike-oil unless it gets red-lined all of the time. Better change it a little more often for those that get nervous when not spending loads of money on their bike
#4 Guest_leehenty_*
Posted 02 April 2010 - 06:55 pm
The niner does not use oil in between services as far as I can tell. The fazer did use about 500ml over about 4K
So long as the oil conforms to JASO MA as regards wet clutches there shouldn't be a problem. Don't forget that car oils are not designed to go through the gears that a bike has. It's the gears that shear the oil, so bike oils have an additive pack with pressure additives such as zinc to help with this.
Yer pays yer money and take yer choice I suppose, but a good oil is cheaper than wrecking parts of the engine.
I get my motul 7100 for £34:92 from huntersmotorcycles on ebay.
#5
Posted 02 April 2010 - 09:40 pm
Been using Silkolene "SUPER 4" 10W-40 oil for the last few years with no problems, Opie oils are doing it for £21 at the moment.
#6
Posted 02 April 2010 - 10:48 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#7
Posted 03 April 2010 - 03:45 am
i bought my 2006 900 2 mo ago and replaced oil and filter 10d ago.
i used "liquymoly Touring High Tech 20 W-50-1255"
Had very good experience with it in my BMW K100 (dry clutch). improved both heat issues and quieter running.
my impression on TDm is also of quieter running.
as we are a hot country the 20x50 makes sense - i do not know if in England or europe considerations are the same.
the word "mineral" in german is somewhere on package...?
I was told repeatedly by people who i trust that replacing oils frequently is best policy and thaht most oils are "good enough"
Roy
Edited by roys, 03 April 2010 - 03:45 am.
#8
Posted 03 April 2010 - 08:11 am
Sylkolene Super 4 is good value. Opie Oils will do a 10-20% discount if you register your Carpe user ID, but it will cost a fiver postage.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/
hope this helps
Mark
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#9
Posted 03 April 2010 - 09:48 am
Used them for 20 yrs and all is good...
10/40w semi synth
My Super Modded TDM has gone to a new home
I'm now a carbon whore!
#10
Posted 03 April 2010 - 10:23 am
#11
Posted 03 April 2010 - 11:06 am
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I think there may be a discount code for Carpe members. I am sure some one could let us have it
71 Norton 750 Fastback
#12
Posted 03 April 2010 - 11:21 am
England is hot as well, but unfortunately not weather-wise.
I always used 20W50 in my K100 too because it was the recommended viscosity. The K100 engine is essentially a small car engine (very similar to the Peugeot 104 engine layout that they used in the K's prototypes) with modest power and low rev-levels; in our kind of climate it will probably survive on ear-wax
Using 20W50 over 10W40 seems a good plan when riding in really warm climates: you get more protection to cope with high temperatures while "cold" starts should still be fine.
#13
Posted 05 April 2010 - 06:32 am
Had very good experience with it in my BMW K100 (dry clutch). improved both heat issues and quieter running.
Does the moly refer to a molybdenum friction modifier? Everything I've read says to avoid them on bikes with wet clutches....
I'm using Yamaha fully synthetic, but my brother is a Yamaha dealer so I get it at cost. The "4-FS" oil designation makes me think Yamaha are prompting the customer what to say when they get the invoice...
Edited by cypher, 05 April 2010 - 06:39 am.
#14
Posted 05 April 2010 - 07:31 am
Used them for 20 yrs and all is good...
10/40w semi synth
+1
#15
Posted 05 April 2010 - 07:39 am
Follow my 2013 Pyrenees tour on http://pyreneestdm.tumblr.com
#16
Posted 05 April 2010 - 07:52 am
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#17
Posted 05 April 2010 - 04:46 pm
I always used 20W50 in my K100 too because it was the recommended viscosity. The K100 engine is essentially a small car engine (very similar to the Peugeot 104 engine layout that they used in the K's prototypes) with modest power and low rev-levels; in our kind of climate it will probably survive on ear-wax
Using 20W50 over 10W40 seems a good plan when riding in really warm climates: you get more protection to cope with high temperatures while "cold" starts should still be fine.
hi,
england
Great bike the k100 - how many TDM owners have a K in garage now or had one in past i wonder?
I have to admit that after 2 mo and ~2000 km I am falling for the TDM - it is everything i expected and more with a few annoyances i admit, cheifly i wish the front were a 17" wheel.
Roy
#18
Posted 05 April 2010 - 04:59 pm
chris
Edited by Chris TDM, 05 April 2010 - 04:59 pm.
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