40 replies to this topic

[idlebloke]

My 'new' bike - http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=31973

Tempest did a previous post  ( http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=31955)before he decided to sell.  I have been through it and made notes of the initial advice.

Spent a couple of hours today fitting the new battery (still firing on one) and now started taking bits off and have the carbs exposed.  I now need to learn all about these, the component parts, possible quick fix and full strip down and rebuild deets.  I'll spend more time later searching, but in the meantime anyone able to point to in the right direction for that lot (I 'know' it will be here somewhere....).  I noticed on another post just now mention of diff carbs in the MK2's as well??

In addition to the above I don't want to keep putting the tank back on and off while working on this, so want to make a temp fuel supply.  Any posts on that already anyone knows of?

Tank tap leaking when removing as well.  Took it apart, cleaned it all up and is holding now, but washers hard and I broke the bottom off of the 'mouth' (if you know what I mean.  Looks like 2 eyes and a mouth!), so Repair kit for that on the shopping list.  

While taking off the tap.....loads of filth in bottom of tank!!  I had the tank tilted forward on a makeshift bench, propped up on the airbox.  Clever me thought I'd just dump a but of fuel out to get rid of that muck (or at least some of it).  This is the colour of what came out!!  

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Took it into the road and tipped more out.  Job for winter......sort the inside of the tank.  Added to shopping list.  New fuel filter

Need a new one of these as well (tank to filter).  I do have some reinforced fuel pipe in the garage, but tight angles and obviously don't want to kink it.  What would you do?  Make one up, or buy original?

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Was quite surprised to see this on the top of my airbox as well!!

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Edited by idlebloke, 10 August 2015 - 07:41 pm.

[Wildbill]

New battery didn't cure single cylinder running.

Tank full of rusty gunge.(as will be the carbs)

 

Well I never !

 

Shorten the special fuel pipe just past the damaged end and refit, there is enough slack.

If the pipe is NLA or on B.O use a light spring length over generic fuel pipe to prevent kinking and restriction. (which it will do when hot)

 

The snorkel is labelled 3VD because that is what model it was first used on.

Just because an earlier part was used on later models,the stamping data and part no. is not changed.....chaos would ensue with stocking duplicated parts.

 

A specific auxillary fuel supply tank is nice.

One may use an old type round "Fairy" washing up bottle......the type that has a splayed end nozzle is ideal when a repair job is in progress and the proper aux. tank is not available.

Edited by Wildbill, 02 August 2015 - 06:17 pm.

[idlebloke]

Cheers Bill.

Well it was always a long shot     Would have been nice, but of course prepped for more anyway.

Just looked for the pipe that I know I have, but like most things in my garage....buried somewhere     Never done it before, but my idea was to cut a bit to length (the plastic stuff with fibres criss crossed thru' it), poke a wire coat hanger through it, bend it to shape (plus a bit) then drop it in some boiling water for a few seconds,

Good call with the washing up liquid bottle     Will see if I can find one

 

[Wildbill]

The first part of my reply was not really for your benefit. (the laughing bit)

 

 

That pipe you intend to use will revert back to being nipped/kinked where a sharp bend occurs as soon as the engine heats up.

 

You might get away with leaving the stiffener wire inside the pipe but the external spring is more professional if you think the original

pipe won't  stand shortening.

 

How much is a new pipe ?

[idlebloke]

No idea.  Not looked yet.

Doing a bit of 'work' at the same time as looking for manual and carb info

 

How much is a new pipe ?

[idlebloke]

£13.59!!

[Tempest]

Eeek at the color of that fuel... Sorry about that

 

There was about 1 gallon that had been sitting in the tank, but as bike was in Garage (dry) did not really consider it would get gunky.

I did (think it was in one of my 1st posts) Syphon out all of the old fuel I could, and I put in 1 minty fresh gallon of Shell.

 

So it was new (gunky) fuel.

 

In hindsight I guess I should of removed the tank, sloshed it around and done a drain, but I was not expecting any issues so never occured at the time.

 

Oh and by the way, that's a virtually new Air Filter inside there. Fitted a new one, just before I stopped riding the bike much, so no need to worry about air filter.

I guess a new Fuel filter will be on the cards (easy to get to at the moment anyway)

 

Hope this turns out to be a easy carb gunk fix. My other card is in even more bits tonight, had floats out, and all jets out.

how many extra bits will I have when I'm finished I wonder

 

Good luck and I'm very interested to hear your story develop (hope it's simple)

[TDMick]

I have a spare MK2 Tank (somewhere) if you need it.

It's black, with no fittings as I recall.u need it.

[dicky1]

My previous bike a mk2 tdm was prone to running on 1 cylinder under load, with the help of some advice from here tracked it down to failing spark plug leads. Its a relatively cheap and simple fix to remove from possibilities. I would suggest you change the the lead plugs as well.

[idlebloke]

How I did this on my 3VD I have no idea!!  Maybe I took my time, but I want to get this running and in use!!

Carbs off.  I did have a quick look under the top cover.  Diaphram looked good, so straight back on and thought I'd concentrate on the jets.

Are all the 'bits' I need to clean within the float chamber?

This is where I am atm.  

Lot of muck around where the fuel comes in!  Should I be able to remove 'that' at the red arrow (float needle seat?)?  It does move but is resisting being pulled out.  

Pic isn't great but where the green arrow is there is a brass rod poking out (this was exposed when removing the 'screw' red arrowed in 2nd pic) that doesn't seem to want to move.  Should it?.  It's similar in look to the rod just below it that comes out at an angle (blue arrow), which also doesn't want to move.

How about the bit at yellow arrow?  Should I be able to remove that one?
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[Studley Ramrod]

Float needle seat is removable, it's got an o ring behind it which might be holding it back.

 

The 'screw' you removed is the main jet, don't think the brass rod behind it is removable.  Yellow wan, I don't think it's removable.

 

Gotta go, I'm off to sort Sidey's bike today.

[idlebloke]

Cheers mate.

Left all removed bits to soak over night.  Will give bowl a good clean today and remove float needle seat, clean all, blow it thru', then back together and 'hope'.

GL with Sidey's

 

 

Float needle seat is removable, it's got an o ring behind it which might be holding it back.

 

The 'screw' you removed is the main jet, don't think the brass rod behind it is removable.  Yellow wan, I don't think it's removable.

 

Gotta go, I'm off to sort Sidey's bike today.

[idlebloke]

Update time....in a min.  Replies first.

Where are you Paul? All done and dusted?  Running properly?



"I have a spare MK2 Tank (somewhere) if you need it.

It's black, with no fittings as I recall.u need it."

Thanks Mick.  Not got back to the tank yet (saving that until I am up and running).  Tap repair kit arrived.  Will remove tap, strain fuel through a clean rag into a can.  Fuel back into tank, slosh around, drain again, etc.....  Once tank is empty I'll check the inside to see what it looks like and come back to you if I do have an issue there.  Now.....if you had a black MK1 tank!!  I know that my one is rough, but that bike is on the back burner atm.
 

 

"with the help of some advice from here tracked it down to failing spark plug leads. Its a relatively cheap and simple fix to remove from possibilities. I would suggest you change the the lead plugs as well. "  

Dicky.  How did you confirm the leads were failing?  TBH, I don't think that is my issue, but will be comparing sparks side by side tomo.  I know you can get a red herring sometimes as they'll fail under load, but I'm not getting it as far as any loading atm.  Plus, did you buy the original leads?  Not explored yet, but while getting a fuel filter at Wemoto earlier I touched on leads.  They sell it by the length, but couldn't do the cap.  May not need to as screw it in?  As I say, not explored yet.

Tks for the posts all.  Just gonna download some pics and see where I am and post again.  Still not working atm

 

Edited by idlebloke, 07 August 2015 - 06:42 pm.

[idlebloke]

What next?

Cleaned the offending carb and the parts as in prev photo.  Soaked jets overnight, brushed more carb cleaner on then blew through at 50psi (dry).  Put back together and same as before.  Went and bought new plugs for the sake of it and still no difference (pic below).

What didn't I do.  I didn't check the float height.  I was very careful to try and not bend the tang, plus I was pushed for time. so didn't go there.  I didn't replace anything at all in the carb, just cleaned and put back together.

Back to when Paul had the bike.  Is there any relevance/ideas on the fact that.....Choke on, bike starts and 'runs' (left cylinder only tho', from the view of the rider).  Move the throttle >0.5mm and it dies?

This is what the new plugs look like after last attempt.  I did feel that both were wet and while the pic isn't great, you can see that the right hand one in the pic (lh one from rider perspective) has been 'working' and the other doesn't look like it has.

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I also recorded a sound file.  To get it to do this, I have to leave on choke for a while until hot.  Kill the engine, start again on choke with throttle open a bit and once fired up, bring up the revs and kill the choke.  Hear that 'spitting'!!??  If I let it drop to 1000 rpm, it dies

https://www.dropbox....ey/tdm.wav?dl=0

Oh...one other thing.  Oil level is lower that it should be!!  Not good I know, but shouldn't be having any impact here?

 

Edited by idlebloke, 07 August 2015 - 07:39 pm.

[Tempest]

This is an odd one, as I spoke to you on the phone, the bike has, since the day I bought it, never missed a beat and always been dead easy to start.

Been always kept in garage, and almost never run in the rain (unless I got caught out)

When it was last MOT'd, as always, running perfect, then it's just been sitting in dry garage.

 

I find it hard to believe electrics just decide to go wrong totally out of the blue. And, as we can both testify, both plugs are sparking.

Air filter I changed, so it's not that.

Carb gummed up, just seemed the obvious thing it must be.

 

I can confirm what's being said here..........

Choke on, and the bike fires up on the left cylinder, give even the tiniest amount of throttle and the engine dies.  That must mean something to someone.... No ?

 

If you let it warm a bit (running on one cyclinder, which I only did once as I felt it may not be good for it) and nurse the engine, choke, you can, just manage, using luck and tiny tiny movements to get to a point where you can get the revs up, but it's not a happy bunny, and will easy die again.

 

It just will not run at all on no choke.

 

To me, before selling it. I presumed the choke must be holding something "extra" open that's allowing the fuel/air to go in, and the moment that's closed it can't carry on.

 

Really hoping someone here can have a flash of inspiration and come up with the answer for "idlebloke"  Perhaps there is one little part of the carbs that he missed?

 

It's the fact that, from cold, starts on choke (only one cylinder) then open the throttle just a fraction and the engine dies. that must be a key thing that means something.

It never ever did this to me in my years of ownership, so, as we thought... Carb Block?

[idlebloke]

A new day....

"Really hoping someone here can have a flash of inspiration and come up with the answer for "idlebloke"  Perhaps there is one little part of the carbs that he missed?".....Yes please...

For the sake of it, I did remove the choke rail while carbs were off, then the plunger assemblies but did no more than look at them and down the port they were each in and then put them back again.  I couldn't see where they could be causing the issue.

For the sake of it (just to completely kill of an electrical issue), first job this morning will be so swap the coils/leads.  If they will stretch far enough, I hope to just leave all intact and just put cap no.1 on plug no. 2 and vice versa.  Anyone see any issue with that method?  It's not as if I will be interfering with the firing order!!
 

[Studley Ramrod]

Did you check the main jets weren't blocked ? you shudda been able to see the light through them.

 

Could you see fuel spraying out into both venturi ?

 

Prolly a bit late now but yeah, iirc it's a wasted spark so you can swap the leads over.

[idlebloke]

Cheers Ian

Yh, was all clean and could see/blow (tried with mouth, but blew dry compressed thru before reassemble as well) through all bits I took off.

Crossed over the leads (after spending ages rerouting), but no joy (wouldn't start).  Swapped entire coil and leads over and same as before (still firing on the same cylinder), so as a belts and braces that's leccy def ruled out.

Just gonna pop to the garage down the road and see if the blokes there have any sort of theories/ideas

[Studley Ramrod]

Well, if it was running fine before the problem appeared then I guess you can rule out a broken valve or slipped timing.  That only leaves the carbs, maybe check the fuel levels just to be sure you're not flooding the cylinder or starving it from fuel ?  Check the diaphragms aren't torn or pierced and the caps are on squarely.  When you push the sliders you should feel some resistance and you can hear them sucking when you let go.  If they just flop then it'll be the diaphragms.

 

Make sure the fuel supply pipe is fitted to the upper front connection and the lickle fuel filter is clear.

 

Oh, one other thing, check the vacuum hoses running from the inlets and make sure they aren't cracked and letting any air in.  The ends should also have bungs in them.

[idlebloke]

Cheers mate.  Yh....Gonna have to bite the bullet and do the full monty this time.

"Make sure the fuel supply pipe is fitted to the upper front connection and the lickle fuel filter is clear.".  Funny you should mention that.  Filter wasn't in there when I took it off. Forgot to take a note of that!!

"check the vacuum hoses running from the inlets and make sure they aren't cracked and letting any air in.  The ends should also have bungs in them".  Will do,  Gonna have a rest from it atm and attack again later