
What About This Method For Changing Oil Seals ?
#1
Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:28 pm
I'm about to change oil seals for the n'th time, mainly because I made a mistake when inserting Vesrah ones.
Well, not a big & difficult job, but it's a pitty ruining the teflon coated bushings when dismantling the fork.
Today I found this link, describing an alternative method for getting them old seals out:
http://www.motorcycl...eals/index.html
It sounds quite simple, and, you don't destroy the bushings:
1) remove the cap
2) remove spring
3) remove oil seal locking clip
4) extend fork tube maximally
5) fill the fork leg with (preferrably cheap) oil
6) reinsert fork cap
If no air is present, you'll have a closed chamber filled with oil.
7) Now, compressing the fork will make the oil pressure pop out the seal...
...ehh, will it ?
Anyone tried this ?
Bjorge
#2
Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:57 pm
Someone on here reckoned screwing a self tapping screw in to the seal to get something to pull on worked well, but need to be carefull you don't scratch the chrome as you pull it.
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#3
Posted 18 May 2009 - 03:28 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#4
Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:09 pm
Wrap a cloth around the fork seal area to catch the blown out seal and minimise the mess.
Also remember to put the retaining clips back in after the new seals ......... cos its embarrassing otherwise after the first time you jump on the bike to go any where .......

currently owned ....
1996 YAMAHA TRX850 gone away for little holiday with Andrea
1997 YAMAHA TDM850 which are obviously an acquired taste. I fink I'm starting to get it now.....
1998 DUCATI 748 ... one way of keeping an old man broke.
1999 YAMAHA Thunderace there is STILL no finer motorcycle
2008 SUZUKI Bandit 1250SA ...... fecked by yours truly, but ......... still fitted with the worlds most uncomfortable bike seat. ouch!
#5
Posted 18 May 2009 - 09:34 pm
Wrap a cloth around the fork seal area to catch the blown out seal and minimise the mess.
Also remember to put the retaining clips back in after the new seals ......... cos its embarrassing otherwise after the first time you jump on the bike to go any where .......

But one thing I don't understand: How do you get the air out of the space between inner and outer tube ?
#6
Posted 18 May 2009 - 10:18 pm

I'd love to see the Heath Robinson alternative using oil pressure on YouTube though

#7
Posted 18 May 2009 - 10:29 pm
I may well try the oil thing tomato as there is an old TDM fork about ear somewhere that need some learning. Wonder if I could find a cheaper substance than oil....hmm. Have cam corder

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#8
Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:14 am
To my experience this happens in about 2 of 3 cases - the third one miracolously comes out in one piece (ehhh...two pieces).

Well, there is a point using a substance that will not simply "pass" between the seal lip and the tube - as the seal (at least in my case) is actually not 100% ok. I'll record everything - I guess thursday may be the day...
#9
Posted 19 May 2009 - 08:23 am

I'm annoyed that I threw out 10 litres of veg oil at the weekend that had been cluttering up the garage for ages 'cos I've got a spare fork too

1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#10
Posted 19 May 2009 - 01:23 pm
Decided to put a milk container condom on to try and eliminate the possibilty of any "red eye".

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#11
Posted 19 May 2009 - 02:00 pm
Alternatively look at it as a good excuse to make yourself a cider press.
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#12
Posted 19 May 2009 - 02:13 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#13
Posted 19 May 2009 - 05:45 pm
Thought you'd have perfected that by now with your nocturnal activities....................................

1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, 2014 Kawasaki W800, 2011 Aprilia Tuono 1000 V4, 2020 Yamaha XSR900
"At the cutting edge of technophobia"
#14
Guest_Dannyboy_*
Posted 19 May 2009 - 07:16 pm

This is going to end in tears.
#15
Posted 20 May 2009 - 08:38 am
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#16
Posted 20 May 2009 - 08:44 am
All I could think of last night to compress fork enough was a ratshit strap around a plank and the fork but someone has a lend of me ratshits at the moment. Might have a go at ChrisG's idea later. Forgot how much I love the smell of pickled onion water.....mmmm nice.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#17
Posted 20 May 2009 - 02:55 pm
The seal came out. No powerful jets of pickled onion water or mess, the fork condom did its thang.
A little irritated that after spedning some time thinking about this I couldn't come up with this solution with my own pea brain. Also it doesn't account for worn bushes that need replacing anyroad. But a few times I have had a new seal leak for no apparent reason and it has irked me bad to have to destroy brand new bushes to change the seal.
Thanks for sharing this info Bjorge and thanks for the jack idea Chris.
b0o0op
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#18
Posted 20 May 2009 - 10:05 pm
...and thank you for trying this out before I got hands on a new pair of oil seals...

Just one thing: Is there an issue with getting the fork filled 100% with oil (or whatever) ?
...could it be an idea filling it with Coke Light and Mentos, put the cap back on, shake it a few times and run ?

#19
Posted 20 May 2009 - 10:08 pm

Growing old is compulsory, growing up is optional
Who dies with the most toys wins!
2010 'stealth' grey 900. '14 plate. engine bars, Centre stand, datatool alarm, datatag, E22s, Cree DRLs, Barkbuster handguards, Carpe sticker. Led running lights
#20
Posted 20 May 2009 - 10:43 pm
Nope, just fully extend, wrap some tape at the base to keep it extended, fill and close. The only thing I would be careful of is make sure the fork IS totally fully as otherwise you might be compressing/mashing fork internals rather than popping the seal. I had one fork dismantled so used those inards to mark off where the internals were to make sure this didnt happen. With the fork fulll there is obviously next to no movement before the seal pops which is how you want it.
Its all on the video, which I might post up on pootube for you to all larf at. Set up an account but then Wicky dragged me off to Paignton Boike Noight.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users