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Alternator Or Reg/rec?


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#1 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 02:23 am

Dunno when it started (today obviously) but started the bike , went to work(45mls), started bike, rode most of the way home(35mls), went into Asda for about 15 mins come out and 'click'.
Battery dead. Mr RAC came jump started me and it fired first time and run fine, put a meter across the battery and it was showing 11.3v with no fluctuation to correspond to engine revs and the lights burn steady too (no fluctuation with revs).
Obviously the battery is not being charged but why?
Alternator down (is this how it goes MarkyMark) or reg/rec gone open circuit?

#2 JBX

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 02:30 am

Check the main fuse first, then the R/R, then the alternator.

I bet one big cake it's the main fuse.

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#3 Guest_LDRider_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 03:15 am

I'm betting on the R/R.

#4 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 03:35 am

Which is the main fuse JBX, is it the big green thing next to the starter relay? (A pic would be nice)
I was going to check it later in the hope that it was the cause.

#5 wicklamulla

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 06:46 am

fook i hope tis a fuse as them alt's. are big £££

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#6 JBX

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:29 am

QUOTE(celticbiker @ Fri 12th Mar 2010, 04:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Which is the main fuse JBX, is it the big green thing next to the starter relay? (A pic would be nice)
I was going to check it later in the hope that it was the cause.


That's it, close to the starter relay, on the right side.
There is a pic inside the user's manual.

Edited by JBX, 12 March 2010 - 02:57 pm.

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#7 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:27 am

Gotta wait for SWMBO to get home with the car so I can go get a new multi meter cos mines broke, main fuse is quite black but looks intact though.
Checked west country windings and they list TDM850, TRX, XTZ750 stators are any of these the same as the 900?
Also there is a reg/rec on ebay anyone heard of the company? They're in Derby apparently.

Wicky,
I hope it's only the fuse cos the stator is about £600, WCW list similar (see above) ones for about £80. Also gonna make a call to a guy suggested by GuyGraham, apparently he's just down the road from you.

Edit:

Just spoke to WCW and they can rewind for £122

Edit 2;

Just spoke to Robin-:

Robin Williams
29 Coleman Avenue
Teignmouth
Devon
TQ14 9DU

01626 772791

He quoted me £50 including return postage and said if I posted it Monday I'd have it back on Friday (depending on postal system).

Edited by celticbiker, 12 March 2010 - 11:02 am.


#8 MarkyMark

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 12:44 pm

Comiserations.

My local guy found a rewind guy and sorted it all for £200.

I know that there are rewinds available cheeper - but I could not figure out if it was definitely alternator. Then there were too many wires to connect.

As you may be aware - I have had 2 alternators go - first at 48K second at 96k - thats exactly 46k both times. Only think ever gone wrong. Should be ok now until 144k

Hope yours turns out to be a fuse.


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#9 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 12:52 pm

Thanx Mark but it's not the fuse unfortunately, is there any way (connector block maybe) to test the stator (resistance/continuity) without taking the casing off?
Looks like there should be 3 white wires going to the reg/rec.

Edited by celticbiker, 12 March 2010 - 12:53 pm.


#10 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 01:10 pm

On the 850 you can test the resistance of the 3 white wires coming fron the alternator.

You'd need to know the spec for the resistance of the stator coil for yours though. EDIT: it's 0.18 - 0.28ohms.

The test is shown in the 900 service manual

4.Stator coil resistance
Remove the generator cover.Connect the pocket tester ( 1) to the stator coils as shown.
Positive tester probe white1
Negative tester probe white2
Positive tester probe white1
Negative tester probe white3

Measure the stator coil resistances.

Edited by Studley Ramrod, 12 March 2010 - 01:15 pm.

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#11 Guest_brianvg_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 01:16 pm

You said the fuse was black... Did you actually stick a multimeter across it and make sure it is still intact? (showing no resistance)

#12 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 01:22 pm

QUOTE(Studley Ramrod @ Fri 12th Mar 2010, 01:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
On the 850 you can test the resistance of the 3 white wires coming fron the alternator.

You'd need to know the spec for the resistance of the stator coil for yours though. EDIT: it's 0.18 - 0.28ohms.

The test is shown in the 900 service manual

4.Stator coil resistance
Remove the generator cover.Connect the pocket tester ( 1) to the stator coils as shown.
Positive tester probe white1
Negative tester probe white2
Positive tester probe white1
Negative tester probe white3

Measure the stator coil resistances.

Yeh I know how to test just wondered if it could be done without removing the engine case. Thanx for the info though.
Gonna get to it tomorrow, too pissed off today.

QUOTE(brianvg @ Fri 12th Mar 2010, 01:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You said the fuse was black... Did you actually stick a multimeter across it and make sure it is still intact? (showing no resistance)

Yeh, put a meter across it (continuity test) and it isn't broken, dya think it needs checking for resistance too?

Edited by celticbiker, 12 March 2010 - 01:25 pm.


#13 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 01:23 pm

The white wires from the windings should end up at a block connector, might be under your seat somewhere.

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#14 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 01:33 pm

Ta.


#15 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 10:02 am

Right, put the meter on it and I got

1/2- 8 ohms
1/3- 8 ohms

but

2/3 0.2 ohms

So it tells me there is a problem on 1 agreed?

Just thinking though, if I start the bike can I check what's coming out across any 2 poles(?) and if so what should I get?

#16 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 05:04 pm

Right, been out there again and started it.
I'm getting about 1vac out of the alternator across 2 wires (is that right or should I be checking 1 wire and earth)
And thus 1vdc from +ive from the reg/rec and -ive to the frame.
Also there is continuity between all 3 white wires and the frame.
So it looks like the stator to me, anyone concur or any other advice before I start stripping the casing off.

#17 ChrisG

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 05:09 pm

Is this any help?
http://www.electrosp...ing-diagram.pdf

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#18 Guest_celticbiker_*

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 06:18 pm

Thanx Chris good.gif , that pretty much confirms all the results I had got sad.gif
Looks like I'll be removing the stator tomorrow mad.gif and sending it to Robin.

#19 iz4dja

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Posted 14 March 2010 - 01:07 am

QUOTE(celticbiker @ Sat 13th Mar 2010, 06:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Also there is continuity between all 3 white wires and the frame.


If you have zero ohm between all 3 white wires to the ground , frame , chassis or what ever you call it , you need to change the stator, Trust me my bike did the same ....

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 04:39 pm

Right folks, got an update for ya.

Removed the stator and sent it off to Robin last Friday and got it back on Wednesday.
Put it on today an hey presto 13.9 volts across the battery at idle, went for a 40 mile run left it for about 30 mins and checked again (engine off) and got 12.9v so it looks like that was the problem.
So thanx to everyone for your input (JBX you owe me a big cake) and hope to see you all sometime this year.



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