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#1 Gio

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 05:52 pm

Hi,

just been out today and all was working fine then all of a sudden the rev counter started to act strangely, sort of jumping a couple of hundred rpm up and down without any change in engine speed - so electrics of some sort. The rev counter is stuck at 6,000 rpm at the moment. A few miles later I also noticed that the temperature guage had stopped working too blink.gif

The speedo was working fine so no problems there.

My question is has this happened to anyone else and is it a simple case of finding the cable/connector and making sure it is connected or am I looking at something a bit more complicted?

I am only just in and didn't have time to start taking the bike apart to try and figure out what the problem could be. Any ideas?

Many thanks.

Gio

Edited by Gio, 01 August 2010 - 05:56 pm.


#2 hammerman

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 07:14 pm

When my rectifier failed it damaged the rev counter. Put a multimeter across the battery terminals and rev the bike it shouldn't go above 14v if it does (and keeps going up with the revs), the rectifier needs looking at.

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 08:23 pm

This is a method often used on older cars to tell you there has been a problem.
Have a look on the digital display, is there an error code showing?
Is the RPM needle stuck at 6000 with the ignition off or only when you switch it on?
If there was a momentary error that cleared itself you may need to reset the the ECU error cache.

#4 Gio

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 07:08 am

Thanks for the replies.

To answer the additional questions, the rev counter started to flicker and then started 'sticking', it was only when I reved a bit higher that it moved and eventually stopped at 6k. It is now showing 6k even when stopped.

I didn't see any error code on the display when this happened. I did do a quick stop - switched engine off and back on again but that didn't clear the rev counter. The bike was then stopped for about 30 minutes - no change in the rev counter or temperature guage, even after starting up agaon. Didn't notice/feel any problems with the bike on the ride home.

I will have a look at the display and rectifier tonight as a starting point.

Thanks again for the help and will report back once I've had a look.

Gio

#5 wicklamulla

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 07:33 am

sounds loike the faulty Throttle position sensor and or possibly arching coils/HT leads. The TPS modification should be carried out foc by a yamaha dealer.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#6 Daveb

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 11:39 am

Gio, the instruments only display the information they are given. Most people think the gauges have failed in some manner but 99% of the time its an electrical problem and not the gauges.

I would check as the guys say on here connections for shorting out, etc.



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#7 Geordie Guy

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:29 pm

If you disconect the power to the back of the Rev display then as said above it should go back to Zero.

But to me it sounds as if you described only the the needle sticking ?

If the power is off and it is still at 6,000 then its more likely to be the rev counter fault than electrical.

Good luck Ivan
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#8 Gio

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:44 pm

Thanks again guys for all the replies.

#9 Gio

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 12:56 pm

Just an update to the above.

I managed to find some time to investigate a bit further. Got the multimeter on the battery and it was reading just over 14V, when revving it but no change with a change in revs - does that indicate the rectifier is still working properly or is about to go?

Also had a look at the error codes in diag mode and the first one there was code 17 - had a look in the pdf document but couldn't see any reference code. Second was code 100, once again didn't see that in the documentation I have. Anyone know what it could be?

Didn't find any loose connection or notice any wires touching that could cause a shorting.

Gio

PS: TPS was carried out last year.

#10 Geordie Guy

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 05:02 pm

Yep, I cannot see them either.

Stumped ? blink.gif

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#11 hammerman

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 07:24 pm

14v and not rising sounds OK, mine just kept going up with the revs, it got to 17v at about 6000rpm (I backed off at this point and decided the rectifier was knackered).

Sounds like your issue is elsewhere

#12 wicklamulla

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 08:52 pm

coils/HT leads.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

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#13 Gio

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:14 am

Hi,

just to finish up this topic - dropped the bike in for a service @ AMS in Reading and asked them to have a look at the issue with the clocks/dials - mechanic told me that all connections working fine and that it was likely to be the dash unit on its way out.

So the question is - anyone got a spare set of clocks they are likely to sell?

Will post in the wanted section too.

Many thanks

Gio

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 11:36 am

Honestly can't see a clock unit failing, more likely to be a bad something else.
On a trip to Manchester recently everything had been fine all day. Filled up with fuel to come back turned the key and it went fzzzt and the rev counter and fuel gauge started dancing.
Turned out to be (after 20 mins of searching) the ignition switch problem again. A good wiggle of the key whilst turning on the power and presto, all back to normal.

#15 Daveb

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:51 pm

QUOTE(Daveb @ Mon 2nd Aug 2010, 12:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Gio, the instruments only display the information they are given. Most people think the gauges have failed in some manner but 99% of the time its an electrical problem and not the gauges.

I would check as the guys say on here connections for shorting out, etc.



Gio,

I guess the Tacho is fed from the ecu, the speedo signal is fed from the front sprocket (900) and front wheel on 850's. Temp gauge signal might be direct from the temp transmitter or going via the ecu. thinking about it the instruments look like single gauges although they are a panel.
so as its a panel there would be a common ground, common positive, common illumination connections. the differences would be the signal input wires.

if the panel was breaking down then I would expect all the gauges to play up.

its a shame you cant borrow a panel to see if the problem is still there, this would confirm if there is a problem else where rather than the panel.

it still could be crud in the plug connections, grounding out 1 or more pins, or even a bent connector pin in 1 of the plug housings.

Edited by Daveb, 09 September 2010 - 01:53 pm.




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#16 JBX

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 10:43 pm

I never heard of this issue on a 9er (funny thing it looks like the old reg/rec issue on the 850 ! )
IMHO the problem comes from the dash itself, but it's better to check the dash connector before buying a new one.
Does the dash go thru the autotest procedure when switching the main switch on ?



The dash displays infos thru the ECU data-link (a bidirectional serial interface), except the fuel level gauge, headlight indicator, turn signal, neutral...
In case of a faulty data link, the dash displays an "Err-x" message.

The dash has a permanent +12V connection, and a switched 12V connection.
In case of power failure, nothing is displayed at all.

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#17 Gio

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Posted 10 September 2010 - 07:23 am

Thanks again for the replies.

Will have a go at taking it all apart once I get a bit of free time. It may well be a loose connection somewhere as the LCD display is still working fine - speed/fuel/trips. At the moment I'm trying to get used to looking down at the rev counter and getting a scare when I see it at 6k ohmy.gif (and travelling at slower speeds).

DaveB - will have a look at the connections and see if the problem is there.

JBX - the dash goes through the autotest but only for the LCD part - tacho is still stuck at 6,000 rpm.

celticbiker - will try your key trick to see if it works.


Gio



#18 wicklamulla

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Posted 10 September 2010 - 02:55 pm

TPS gone tits up ?

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#19 JBX

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Posted 10 September 2010 - 03:45 pm

QUOTE(Gio @ Fri 10th Sep 2010, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks again for the replies.

Will have a go at taking it all apart once I get a bit of free time. It may well be a loose connection somewhere as the LCD display is still working fine - speed/fuel/trips. At the moment I'm trying to get used to looking down at the rev counter and getting a scare when I see it at 6k ohmy.gif (and travelling at slower speeds).

DaveB - will have a look at the connections and see if the problem is there.

JBX - the dash goes through the autotest but only for the LCD part - tacho is still stuck at 6,000 rpm.

celticbiker - will try your key trick to see if it works.
Gio


Looks like the dash is defective, either this is the stepper motor of the tachometer, either it's the electronic which drives it.
If the speedometer works fine, then you can be sure there is no power/data link connection problem.

The stepper motor may be replaced, not a very easy job but doable.


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#20 Daveb

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 11:30 am

remember if you remove the pointers (needles) from the panel this will affect the calibration. even if you think you have put them back in the correct position. The amount of gauges we get in work in bits when some one with no expreience of gauges is quite high, usually a bag of bits.

The stepper motor might be 1 of 2 types. one requires a stop pin, as the motor will keep on rotating, the other type has a built in mechanical stop. so on switch on you will ovserve the pointer resetting agains the stops.





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