The Very Very Very Slow Build Of A (4 D T) Enjun
#1
Posted 13 February 2012 - 03:24 pm
The porpoise of the build is to build from scratch a long lasting and practical enjun for no other reason than its challenging and enjoyable. Reliability is going to be important and mayhaps a wee tweak here and there but noubt close to the exciting stuff in MadAds build.
Bought this from Exeter (via ebay) a few years ago from a TRX owner who had supposed that all TDM engines were the same and wanted parts for his TRX. This may well mean that there are some generic bits missing loike side covers and a water pump (cous I gave it away:)) but the garden ornament department should have enough bits to sustain the build.
Today is the project start date as it was lugged from outdoors into a workspace. Anyone who has had the painful experience of watching me do stuff on a boike will know that I work at a snails pace so this is not going to be loike watching a 3 man team building a Bettle Enjun.
Another added challenge is that this enjun is incomplete and already dismantled, badly dismantled at that. Nothing is labelled or containerised its just a box of components and the components are also stripped so things like the oil pumps are dismantled and the screws/internals scattered amongst all of the other bits!
Sadly there will be no pics as the upload facility/gallery remains broken.
So on to stuff done so far:
13FEB12: Lugged box into the office. Uncovered. Took some pics and unburied the crankshaft burrings (uninstalled and loose in the box ). This leaves an exciting dilemma as without knowing where they came from the irritation of tryin to decipher Yamahas stupid colour coding sytem is irrelevent as no way of telling where the shells came from. I have spoken to Yamaha before about the ACTUAL SIZES of shells without any of this colour nonsense and cant remember if I got a straight answer.
Next step: I need to dig out the c.case halves and try to identify all the case bolts ...they should all be numbered which will help greatly. Take the numbers from the conrods and engraved on crankcase to calc the stupid Yamaha colour codes as they are not visible on the shells (as usual).
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#2
Posted 13 February 2012 - 05:33 pm
Good luck with this project Master
#3
Posted 13 February 2012 - 06:11 pm
#4
Posted 13 February 2012 - 08:22 pm
Wehooooo !
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#5
Posted 14 February 2012 - 05:26 am
Photobucket?
I'm interested to see how it goes as I've got half an engine sat on the garage floor......
#6
Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:36 am
I'm not so sure about all the crankcase bolts being numbered, I thought it was the bolt holes that are numbered
I deffo remember having to tag each bolt so I knew where it went.
Anyhoos, if that is the case, then I may be able to decipher the parts file and find the length/diameter of each bolt for ya.
Pity about the gallery (still) not working Must be 2-3 years now.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#7
Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:25 am
I don't like bucketsofphotos because alot of the threads over the years end up with the red cross.....or pictures of someones cat! Don't have a cat so this is not such a big worry but would like to keep the focus on the gallery being fixed rather than ignoring the problems in the hopes they will at some point magically fix themselves. It must be at least that amount of time since the upload had been bust. I will however be taking pictures of as much as possible in the hope that some day they can be uploaded.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#8
Posted 14 February 2012 - 10:07 am
Oil have a go at finding the casing bolt sizes, fingers crossed Is it deffo a mk1 engwin then Dappers ?
I have a problem using Flickr for my photos as I'm only allowed 200 images and I'm almost up to my limit, so my blog is gonna be picture deficient
They can take our pictures from us, but they'll never take our cake !
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#9
Posted 14 February 2012 - 12:29 pm
Single-handedly reviving the Wave.
2008 reg. Black TDM 900 ABS
#10
Posted 14 February 2012 - 12:41 pm
I now have all the *available* info for the process of big end and main burring size calculations. This is covered in the Heinz Manuel but with some inaccuracies.
Stamped at the end of the crankshaft on the web is the first clue. There should be 5 numbers, first two relate to big end bearing and last three to main burrings and values start from left side. My numbers are "11 232", so Left BigEnd=1, Right BigEnd=1, Left Main=2, Mid Main=3, Right Main=2.
Next clues are much more cryptic. For the Bigend shells Heinz suggests there is a manly stamp across the cap/rod joint. I have yet to actually see this on any TDM engine. The reality is some crappy illegible ink down the side of the cap/rod join. A trick from last time came back to me and taking a photo and then viewing on PC actually makes this weird inky thing much easier to see. This worked for one of the wods but the other was completely illegible. This is not such a big issue at the moment but to show how big end shell size is then calculated from this info, you subtract the crankshaft web number from the cap number. In the case of the legible cap, the number was 4. So the standard bigend shell size is 4 - 1 = ermm err 3. Sneaky edit: Since new wods are going to be fitted and the new wods have visible markings of 4 and 4, that gives me big end burring sizes of 4-1=3 and 4-1=3, So BEL=Browny BER=Browny.
Big End Colour Codes: 1=Blue, 2=Black, 3=Brown, 4=Green. So we have a number 3 = Browny.
Now onto the main burrings: Scratched (not stamped) on the upper c.case is a series of numbers. Either last or first or not at all (I have seen all of these!) are a series of numbers relating to the main burrings. You want the series of three numbers in a row for main bearing size calcs. Luckily these cases have them, 6 6 6. So to calculate my standard main burring sizes the same subtraction process is required. So Bearing size Left Main=6-2=4, Mid Main=6-3=3 and Right Main=6-2=4.
Main Burring Colour Codes: 1=Blue, 2=Black, 3=Brown, 4=Green, 5=Yella, 6=Pink, 7=Red. So we have LM=Green, MM=Broon, RM=Green.
I inspected the crank journals and they look excellent particularly considering the multiple shell situation! One of the shell halves from the bottom of the box looks to have had something get atwix it and the crank but the shell has done its job and the crud has either been pushed into the shell of found its way out as all other shell halves are clean.
Studders, thanks for the offer on bolt sizes, will be takin all the help oi can git as its a bit loike a dead TDM crime scene ear. The number I was thunkin of is the grade stamped on the crank bolts all of them have an "8" stamped on the heed I think. Have started collecting the ones I recognise but think I threw away my old cardboard template in the last tidy up. I'd say its defo a 3VD lookin at me crankeroony though the first thing I took out of the box was a TRX cam which concerned me slightly.
Next step: Find and arrange the ccase bolts with the aid of Ramrod....as we know...if anyone can.. Then check sizes and quantity of new? bearing shells. Also noticed that there is a code stamped on the shells so am going to investigate if this code can be matched to stupid colour system.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#11
Posted 14 February 2012 - 03:30 pm
I found out what the 4DT means
It's the model code for the 1992 TDM850 in America. As you can see from the piccy of the service info in the 1992 parts file. You can tell it's American 'cos the oil is measured in quarts and the gallons are small
I'll email you the bolt info when I've worked 'em out.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#12
Posted 14 February 2012 - 03:54 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#13
Posted 14 February 2012 - 04:52 pm
To Do List - HID Bi-Xenon Projectors - MRA Vario Screen.
#14
Posted 14 February 2012 - 06:42 pm
#15
Posted 14 February 2012 - 06:59 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#16
Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:55 pm
At least we have a name for it now - 6 6 6 is the number of The Beast
Stu
#17
Posted 14 February 2012 - 11:24 pm
Interesting so far and I'm sure the journey will be a fun one
#18
Posted 15 February 2012 - 06:33 am
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#19
Posted 15 February 2012 - 12:05 pm
Simply print off the piccy to an A4, stick it onto some card and use as a template, or, alternatively, ignite one end and use for lighting a fire if it's not correct I'll forward a copy via email.
I can't guarantee them all being correct as the parts file doesn't show all of the bolts, so I've made an educated guess, based on a coin !
I've put the piccy up in case anyone else needs the info, I will need to remove it in the near future though.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#20
Posted 15 February 2012 - 02:04 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
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