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I4 Vs I2 Engine


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#1 Kalts

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 06:29 pm

Reading the "Power Commander" and "Boosterplug" threads I got confused.

QUOTE(cortez)
Have to agree with JBX. To each their own but, chugging around in a high gear at low revs isn't doing the TDM motor any favours, it's not a four.

This is contrary to common knowledge that same displacement I4 engine will do worse in low-rev torque department than I2 or V2 engine.
So it seems a bit backwards to me, the 9'er almost-a-litre I2 should be competent lugging in high gears. This is a necessity as the lower gears
are too jerky to be really usable. Endless clutchwork is a fact of life for 9'er rider, I do it now almost unconsciously. This is a shortcoming, not a feature.

If I got something backwards then please enlighten me. I am in search for better bike for some time now (as said before..) and would appreciate all comments.

Edited by Kalts, 17 August 2012 - 08:44 pm.

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#2 AzzA

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 01:17 am

It seems that retuning a TDM900 is as contentious as Imperialist Colonisation... (I feel a Python moment coming)

Many citizens will resist the idea of change and make accommodations for the status quo, heralding their imperialist overlords as worthy of serving, and freely offer their lives to the monarch; because that is the way things are and always have been... amen to Mr Yamaha for as our King he is so close to God.

Whilst anyone that opposes the status quo in search of a better way of living is labelled as an anarchist, republican, heretic, and must be summarily dispatch to the God of motorcycling... praise be to Mr Yamaha for he is always so right and mighty.

Laws and regulations have been enacted to preserve the rule of Empire and King; "Thou shalt not touch that knob thingy on thy scoot, for thou shalt be thrust into the dungeon for EPA and EPA amen."

Edited by AzzA, 18 August 2012 - 02:24 am.

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#3 AzzA

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 01:47 am

In all seriousness...

Sadly, it's well documented that some TDM900's are much less than tractable in low to mid range RPM.

However, it has been proven that the TDM900 can be tuned to be a very tractable machine using one of several methods.

Thankfully, you do have options available for the TDM900 to remedy the situation.

Choose which one suits your budget and/or abilities:
- make inlet and exhaust modifications, that are likely in some cases to require further tuning. e.g. after-market exhaust and filter. Edit: and the airbox mod.
. (In many cases you're well on your way going this route.)
- retune with very particular attention to throttle body vacuums and offset of the TPS, progressively retuning for optimum.
. (for capable purists)
- PCIII add-on, and pay for someone wise and experienced with a dynamometer.
. (cashed up enough to throw some money at it)
- Dobeck/Techlusion add-on, and tune as you would a carburettor (simple enough for DIY).
. (coz I did it my way)
- apply a somewhat more band-aid method by tricking one of the sensor to cause a richer A/F.
. (snake oil is good for ya)
- any combination of the above.
. (no two bikes are the same and everyone loves farkles)

Personally I can't see any reason why someone should have to just live with it if it is an issue for them.

Viva la revolution.

Edited by AzzA, 23 August 2012 - 02:31 pm.

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#4 wicklamulla

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 08:46 pm

well said AzzA.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#5 Kalts

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 03:44 pm

Yes, a good concise summary.
I've done it all, except for tuning CO with the help of CO-meter. PC is too expensive and esoteric for everyday
bike, IMO. Cannot undo airbox mod as the first owner did it permanently: no flap, no actuator..
Re-setting TPS, adjusting TB vacuum to highest level and having less chain slack were most helpful,
still the "character" remains. I will try Dobeck FI-1025 as a last resort, should be delivered next week.

Because this "character" seems to be well agreed upon I thought that perhaps am simply riding wrong bike and
expecting something it is not designed for. I still think so.

To be honest my remark about I4 engine being gutless at low revs is not entirely true. I've been digging around
and it seems that there is nothing which prevents designing such engine. But this would be quite a low-revving I4
and market demands howling I4-s for the sportbike cult. I will try Bandit 1250 tomorrow if all goes well, this is one
rare exception to the common I4 engine trend.

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