12 replies to this topic

[Buzzo]

Hi Fellas.

I was just wondering if at some stage we could get a start
to finish tune up section in the knowledge base for the 900, like the Service
on a 9er by Cleticbiker. I do understand how much work is involved..... 

There have been many great write ups over the years for
things like the TPS and throttle bodies but with each passing year and stubbie
I find them harder and harder to find.

It seems like every year I get on here and ask for tuning
advice. Surely it can’t be that hard, from what I gather the 900 isn’t very
high tech but this particular bike has been a pain in the arse for a long time.
I can get it to run half reasonably for a short period (without ever finding a
cause) and then it runs like crap again. At the moment I’d go as far as it’s
dangerous. It’s cut out completely a few times lately, in roundabouts and
coming up to lights.  I’ve almost had a
gut full. It’s a shame because they’re a great bike.

Over the years I’ve done the air box mod, taken it off again,
blocked the EGR and unblocked it. Put self amalgamating tape around the spark plug
leads, been using fuel additives, and adjusted the throttle bodies with the
Morgan Carbtune gauges. It’s all back to standard now except for the Beowulf
cans. I love em but if they’re the cause I wouldn’t hesitate to take them off.

So..... Can anybody tell me where to start and finish and
what to look for when it comes to tuning a 900?

Cheers 

[Studley Ramrod]

Generally speaking, the more information you can provide relating to the problem, ie the symptoms, the better chance you'll have of getting someone to suggest what's causing it.  Saying you can get it to run half reasonably for a short period and then it runs crap again, isn't really much to go on.

 

Yeah, it'd be great to find a start to finish tune up guide that would magically cure all known problems regarding any bike, but I doubt it'd be possible in reality.

Given that experts like Haynes and Yamaha have been doing this for decades, I can't see how a bunch of hammer chewers, loike wot we is, could better their attempts. 

 

Regarding your problem, I wonder if it could be a sticking cold start mechanism ?

[vicens66]

Hi it looklike your tps playing up.

What its the rpm at tickover?

does it cut of went the the bike its cold or hot?

[Rallyist]

Its not used often enough, fuel degradation and gumming of injectors, run some injector cleaner through the system and before laying up run fuel stabiliser in the fuel, prevents gumming whilst standing.

You never had the problem whilst over here, maybe it needs another UK holiday.

[Buzzo]

That’s a fair call Studley, reading back I was pretty vague.

Okay, the dreaded on – off throttle control under 4000 rpm
has got a lot worse. It is impossible to ride smoothly while cornering it’s
like it cuts out a couple of times for a split second before wanting to take
off. Which is unpleasant when there is a bit of loose stuff on the roads.  I find I have to ride the clutch a little bit
when changing gears with a pillion because I’m continually getting head butted
otherwise from the jerky acceleration.  I’ve
worked an equal time roster for years which meant it could sit for six weeks at
a time before being ridden for the next six (that hasn’t been the case since
last November and had been ridden consistently until parking it up a week ago).
A lot of advice has focused on that aspect and I have taken the tank off and
made sure it was clean before treating it with fuel additives continually
since.  I took apart and cleaned the cold
start mechanism a year or so ago, it was clean and working fine then, I’ll
check it out again.  The stalling has
been happening irregularly  when hot, for
example after riding 400 Km and coming to a set of traffic lights after already
going through multiple others first.

So now back to my wishful thinking.........  

My time on the internet is limited at the moment because of work;
I grab a look in whenever I can.  I’m guessing
most of the write ups are already on here somewhere and it’s just a matter of searching
(time).  The idea of a thread in the Knowledge
Base that combined them in the order that they should be undertaken from start
to finish would be a benefit to a lot of us who are mechanically inept but
willing to give it a go. PLUS stop the brain dead like myself from having to
ask for the same help year in year out......

Oh and don’t sell yourselves short on your write ups over
the likes of Haynes. There generic and would have us pulling out the complete
engines to change plugs instead of an easier way found by owners.

Lol.... I wish Graham...

[AzzA]

Buzzo,

 

try this link for a spiel: http://www.carpe-tdm...=25814&p=250259

 

Then this one for a comprehensive fix: http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=25955

 

The 2007+ bikes don't benefit from the air-box mod, leave it stock for best results.

 

The O2 sensors on the TDM are very basic and this seems to be the major cause for lousy on-off throttle response. Our fuel quality isn't great in Oz; so if you've been off the beaten track to refuel, god knows what's been through your tank. Once the O2 sensor is kaput the engine will run lean, and that sucks.

 

Given you've opened up your exhaust flow with the Beowulfs, your bike will be running a tad leaner too and... once again... that sucks.

 

You could replace the O2 sensor and hope that no more adjustment is needed, and that it lasts more than another 20,000kms, or bypass it and know the EFI will work as you tell it.

 

Search the forums for "Dobeck" and "TFI-1025"... buy one on ebay or elsewhere... follow the guide I've given (above) and you will be most happy.

 

Four very good tips for the 900:

1. balance the throttle bodies and set the vacuum at its highest possible setting within the advised range (see the manual),

2. set the idle at around 1150-1200 RPM once the engine is hot.

3. adjust chain tension correctly,

4. adjust throttle cable slack to higher end of advised limit (see manual)

[Studley Ramrod]

 

Okeedokee, keep us posted Buzzo.

 

Regarding wishful thinking, yeah the same thought has also crossed my mind when I've spent hours searching and finding the info needed to fix summat.  It can be frustrating. However, when you sit down and think about the job at hand, finding and organising useful information, removing all the inevitable off topic 'chit chat' and then presenting it all in a structured coherent manner, the reality sets in.

[Buzzo]

You’re a legend Azza,

I’ve got a good feeling that you’re onto something with the
O2 sensor. I’ve never even thought about it let alone looked at it. The old
girl has had more than a couple of fills from 44’s and done a few thousand K’s
of dirt. I’ll look at getting a "TFI-1025" and bypassing it.
One question that popped straight into my little brain was, does by passing the
O2 sensor and setting the injection like a carbs, pilot, needle and main jets,
will it lean out noticeably in the mountains ? I thought the sensor helped in
that regard.....  Actually a couple of
other things have been rattling around in my head for a while. Why do diesels
engines recommend replacing the fuel injectors every 100,000 ks and not
petrols? Plus I’ve heard a few of the boys at work talking about having to
clean the MAF sensor on their (diesel) cars because the EGR covers it in S@*t and causes
them to run badly. Could that be a cause with ours?

 

I'll let you know how I go.... maybe a few weeks.

Cheers Steve

[Matt101]

As Vincens suggested have you tried the TPS? My mate had similar problems and it turned out to be the TPS having intermittent problems.

[AzzA]

Thanks Buzzo,

 

no MAF in a TDM, and no sulphur rich SEA diesel... so don't worry too much about the injectors, just yet... there's no EGR either; however there is an Air Induction system that dumps fresh air into the exhaust ports, and this is probably what you blocked, but it should only be active while the engine warms up. (so you might notice a few exhaust pops with after-market cans until the engine warms up)

 

If the O2 sensor is disconnected or goes bad the TDM will run lean, very lean.

 

I've had my TDM over Mounts Kosciusko and Hotham a few times since the TFI-1025 went in and had no problems; this is because the temperature and pressure sensors are still helping the EFI set the final AFR. It's done the alp's with snow and molten asphalt, not in the same day obviously, and the performance was linear at all times.

 

I don't like using the brakes through the hills, I'd rather use the gears and engine braking, that's another reason why I like the TDM. Being able to rev cleanly from idle to red-line helps that riding style and the TFI-1025 fixes the fault that can limit some TDM's from doing just that.

 

If you're FIFO, order one on-line and it should be at home when you get there... shop around and you should be able to find one for around, or under, A$200... money well spent, in my book.

http://www.ebay.com....=item5d302f57c1

There's only one on ebay at the moment, and it's a tad dearer than in the past, and it wont come with the connectors that are pictured (which you wont need anyway)... still worth it though.

 

Once you've got it sorted you'll be grinning at the usable low end grunt you'll pick-up... then try gearing it down with 15/43 F/R sprockets, if you're not regularly doing 130+kph, and you will have a very grunty tractable mountain killer.

 

Cheers,

AzzA

 

EDIT:

You can check the TPS using the dash buttons; it should change values smoothly as you twist slowly.

 

EDIT:

This place is slow shipping, but they've always delivered: http://www.cruisercu...?action=reviews

You might like to check out the reviews, they're strongly positive.

Edited by AzzA, 06 March 2013 - 09:55 am.

[Buzzo]

Thanks Matt, I've only ever
checked the TPS the way Azza suggested by the dash buttons a while ago. I
remember a post on checking the Ohms’ or something but it was a little over my
head.

 

Cheers Azza, I'm not FIFO for the first time in years but
working big hour days at the moment so things will move slowly. I'm ordering
the TFI-1025 right after this post and just out of curiosity
(frustration) if an O2 sensor isn’t too dear I’d really like to change it out
before hand and see if it has been the major culprit. Then I’ll follow your
instructions........... 

[AzzA]

If you're going to approach Yamaha for a replacement O2 sensor you had best take your own sturdy seat; it will be a price gouge for sure... and I'd be very ruddy surprised if I'm wrong.

 

You can buy 2 x O2 sensors for under A$80, posted to you, to fit an early Holden sedan: http://www.ebay.com....em=120758644350

The Yamaha 2 wire TDM one is practically no different.

 

Don't get caught thinking you need to buy OEM; you don't.

 

Any zirconium dioxide two wire O2 sensor that fits the hole and has roughly the same dimensions will do the same job... you may have to swap the old plug is all... the physics/chemistry is all the same.

 

If you want to see how much they'll want for a Yamaha part, have a Google around... here's a snippet:

http://www.ebay.ca/i...0-/320927704340

http://www.kfm-motor...id=5PS8592A1000

Somewhere between A$200 and A$400+, plus the Australian two wheel stealership rip-off margin rate (that they seem to obligated to charge).

 

(If you've got an early TDM900 and it's got the 4 wire O2 sensor, the same applies, just get any good 4 wire sensor that fits the hole and wire it to the old Yamaha plug. The extra 2 wires are for a heater coil that make the sensor more efficient earlier in the run cycle: these sensors also last much longer so you're much less likely to have one fail under ~160 thousand kms.)

[Buzzo]

Thanks again Azza,

Well I’ve ordered a Dobeck...... Fingers crossed I get it
right with the old girl this time. lol.

 

There’s no way I’m spending that on a sensor from Yamaha,
having said that and with your info I might see what I can pick up and try.
Regardless the tuner is going on and the O2 sensor bypassed but I really would
like to know if it’s been my problem all along.

I’m guessing you haven’t heard the last from me..... My electrical
skills are unfortunately even lower than my mechanical ones..

Cheers  Steve..