26 replies to this topic

[timoc]

Its time to dig the bike out of winter hibernation, I noticed a tiny bit of sideways play in the swing arm last year, so need to sort it out, is it just a case of getting the bike on a stand, removing the wheel and swing arm nut and nipping up the adjuster until the play has disappeared? the bike only has 9000 miles so I don't think it needs stripping down and re greasing yet.

[celticbiker]

Nipping up might help but they are not conical bearings so it won't cure the problem, best bet is to replace the bearings and tube,only takes a couple of hours.

[timoc]

It shouldn't need bearings at 9k miles, especially as its only been used in dry weather? I noticed the play with the wheel and linkage out, its not as noticeable with everything tightened up.

[leehenty]

yamaha are sparing with grease on the bearings.

Pop it out and repack with a good moly grease and the job will be done for a few years.

The one that can be a problem is the lower frame pivot where the sleeve goes through the left frame lug on the rising link.

That one needs a grease every year to keep it free.

[timoc]

Without a torque wrench small enough for the adjuster, how is the best way to tighten the adjuster, and whats the best way to remove the sleeve on the linkage?

[dablik]

At 9000 miles i would hope the sleeve on the linkage would pop out without problems, some people have used a rawl plug, metal rawl plug, anchor bolt sleeve for example, a search should pull up a bit of info timoc...in the meantime have a look at this page, worth doing now really as they tend to get well stuck otherwise.

[timoc]

^{Thanks Guys}

[celticbiker]

@Mr Henty
Lol lol lol lol
Every year. I have to do mine every other month.

[leehenty]

use needle nose pliers and turn it until snug, it's fine threaded doesn't need to be bar tight.

 

There is a special tool for doing this which uses a 1/4 sq drive bar. part 90890-01455 or 90890-01471 either will fit.

Used to be a guy on ebay doing these.

Edited by leehenty, 26 February 2014 - 11:53 am.

[Oil patch]

Look for turbosuzuki on ebay. He makes tools to fit unique nuts ! I just bought one for the head stock race. Fantastic piece of kit, it allows easy removal, fitting and torquing of headstock castleated nuts.

[timoc]

Thanks for that, found him and ordered the tool

[steve27bha]

It took me longer than usual to find turbosuzuki so here are his contact details:-

 

email:- TURBOSUZUKIS@YAHOO.CO.UK

 

Phone:- 0786 775 6637

 

last ebay item:- http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=261033131785

 

He has nothing for sale right now.

[timoc]

I contacted him and he had them in stock, a nice chap, despatched it straight away.

[steve27bha]

I've had a go at fettling the rear suspension linkage and offer the following to add to the comments above. The bike is an '09 registered 2008 build 900A model at 22,000 miles, owned by me for about 15 months.

 

I used a Rawlbolt to remove the front bearing collar. I don't see how else it can be done since there is no lip to force against. Maybe a large size well nut would do the job. Once I got the Rawlplug in situ I could not yank the thing out by pulling on the bolt - I got a hook end version - and was casting about to make up a slide hammer without success. I decided to make up a press tool using a long 6mm fully threaded screw in the Rawlbolt and a socket to bear against the frame bracket. I checked out the screw for clearance first, then tried levering it out against the large washer I'd added under the nut but without success, and finally decided to have a wee tap (I've read the warnings about the fragile frame lug) to see if that would be enough to shift the collar. I made sure the drift was narrow enough to only hit the screw rather than the Rawlbolt section, and hey! it  worked. So, no need to rake around for the bits to make the puller.

Pix show the Rawlplug (the tubular M6 size, not the thicker cast design) and removed collar, and the collection of tools used to remove the collar.

 DSC07982 - 600.JPG   39.77KB   45 downloads   DSC07980 - 800.JPG   51.85KB   47 downloads

 

I cleaned out the link bearings with paraffin sprayed in and got a lot of crud out, then stuck the thing in my Aldi ultrasonic cleaner with more clean paraffin and cooked it on both sides (it came out warm!) to change the colour somewhat.

 DSC07987 - b4 600.JPG   53.28KB   42 downloads   DSC07989 - after 600.JPG   62.43KB   32 downloads

 

It all started with an oil & filter change! I double-bent a bit of 1/2" copper pipe to make refilling easier, using heavy plastic coated wire to support the funnel from a fairing gap. I'm using my recently acquired EazyRizer bike lift to get down and a wee bit less dirty.

 DSC07985 - 600.JPG   63.49KB   33 downloads   DSC07991 - 600.JPG   77.23KB   29 downloads

 

I'm waiting on rear brake pads due in today before getting out and about again tomorrow.

 

MUCH LATER ADDITION: See p2 of this thread for an alternative tool and pix.

Edited by steve27bha, 05 February 2023 - 01:24 pm.

[dablik]

Nice post Steve but damn i wish my bugger would pop out so easily, tried all this as posted plus heat to no avail, when i tried to gently tap out the collar as you mentioned it just pushed out the rawlplug...... think i may have to try again, i really want it out as, thats the only part of the suspension that's not had an annual lube properly.

 

Got a feeling even the proper sized blind puller would struggle to shift it..

[timoc]

One of the relay arm bearings feels very gritty, are these stock bearings or are they Yamaha special order?

[steve27bha]

Does a good clean and flush not smooth it out? Don't go spinning the thing dry, just gentle rotation.

 

The wemoto site only lists a bearing kit for the swingarm (http://www.wemoto.co...x_ay_abs/05-09/)

 

However my reading of the parts on AJSutton's site (http://www.yamahamot.../rear arm?uID=0) suggests the swingarm bearings are the same as some of the link bearings.

 

If you know of another parts fiche available online, that may have a bearing reference or size mentioned. Honda fiches do in most cases.

 

I'd think you should replace the collar at the same time as the rollers, and that is more likely to be Yamaha-specific to the length. Is it marked at all? Mine had witness marks form the work it had done, but no damage.

 

Is there no number engraved on the edge of the bearing race? You'd need to remove the oil seal to see. Stock bearings seem to be in a relatively small range of sizes. Have a go at measuring and look up online a supplier/manufacturer to see if you can match the size. Or go to a bearing supplier in your nearest engineering area and ask for help with the link & collars in hand. They seem to like a challenge. They may even advise on serviceability of what you have.

 

Good luck.

[leehenty]

TDM900
suspension linkage parts.

4 off TA1715Z - IKO  (examples : http://simplybearing...roducts_id=9702 ) (http://www.bearingst..._Roller/TA1715Z )

 

2 off TA1720Z - IKO

 

6 off 17x20x3 oil seals

 

2 off 90387 - 126Y1 Collar (Yamaha)

 

1 off 90387 - 1012B Collar (Yamaha)

 

1 off 90387 - 127W0 Collar (Yamaha)

 

You will need some sort of press and tool to put them in with, or you can used a turned steel centreing piece and high tensile bolt to draw them in. A thick tube and the same bit will draw the old ones out. A 10mm fine threaded bolt will serve as the force.

Edited by leehenty, 07 March 2014 - 04:20 pm.

[timoc]

Got it done today, the collar on the frame mount came out with nothing more than a bit of sand paper wrapped on the bolt, wiggled it into the collar, one twist and it slid out. Thanks to all for your help.   

[leehenty]

One of the relay arm bearings feels very gritty, are these stock bearings or are they Yamaha special order?

wash the bearing out with paraffin and then meths to dry it out, repack with a decent moly grease and it should be ok.

Are there deep scoring marks or dents on the bush ?