113 replies to this topic

[chrisr]

So, at the third attempt, Mr.Henty managed to defeat his nemesis, my rear suspension bush. After 4 hours of grinding out with a Dremel, destroying numerous stones in the process he finally managed to draw it out of the frame lug. 
The pictures in order show the bush clinging on to the lug till the very end, the new and old bushes, and the amount he had to grind out of the old bush before it would move.The bearing was completely shot. Rallyist and Dablik, it seems to be the only way to do it.Good luck! The rest of you, keep them greased!
m/user/chrisr0458/media/photo2.jpg.html]
 Thanks for doing all the hard work Lee!

Edited by chrisr, 05 October 2014 - 06:39 pm.

[muddy]

Poor ol' Lee. I hope you kept the tea flowing there Chris.

[chrisr]

Yep, I was tea boy and pie and chip fetcher,I know my place!

[Studley Ramrod]

Well done Lee, dunno what peeps would do without you.

[muddy]

Well done Lee, dunno what peeps would do without you.

Fecked and broke   I hope he knows that he's got a lot of huge favours to call in should he ever need or want to.

[PICARD]

Makes me feel much much much better about failing with the same job on Dabliks bike last year!!
Well in Lee.....Reeeeespect !!

[leehenty]

If any of you do this, know that the bush is hardened all the way through. I was hoping it was case hardened only and to grind out the case hardened layer and drill out the soft core. It was not to be. Yamaha san made this bit very well.

It is absolutely imperative that you do not in any way go outside the bush with the grinder into the alloy frame lug.

 

It would be very difficult to recover from this as the new bush would be loose in the frame lug.

Go slowly and carefully and grind the bush out for a depth of 12.6mm.

Once you have a thin shell,tap the edge of it gently with a Brass punch and it will shatter inwards as the hard metal is very brittle. This will relieve the gripping effect of the corrosion between the steel and alloy.

You will need to extract the old needle bearing from the link and install a new one. (Bearing is IKO TA1720Z) Seals are grease seals, 17x24x3 Get them from here if you want to avoid Yamaha prices. You need two. The bush/collar seems to be a Yamaha only part as it is longer than the bearing.

 

Seals.

 

http://www.bearingst...easeSeal17X24X3

 

Bearing

http://www.bearingst...?PartNo=TA1720Z

 

 

A steel top hat turned to 17mm for 20mm long with a 23.8mm top rim 3mm thick and a stepped 32mm steel spacer with a 23.8mm lip for 3mm to locate the other end to pull on, will draw in the new bearing.

Drill both parts 10mm and use a long 12.9 grade M10 cap screw and nut to draw it in. These will have to be made on a lathe.

You cannot hit this type of bearing, it will destroy it.

To make your life easier you need very good access. Remove the side stand, the exhausts and the headers, shock and rear wheel, tying up the swingarm.

Trust me, it's much easier to do all this before you start. I didn't and we sort of learned as we went along. Support the bike on an Abba Stand. Wear eye protection lots of very hot glowing bits will fly out.

 

Best get to removing and greasing this bush every year.

Dremel grinding stones for hard metal. Plus the 4.8mm chainsaw one for hardened metal to start off. You will need plenty 

 

http://www.clasohlso...nes/Pr408539000

 

http://www.clasohlso...nes/Pr408539000

 

 

Link to all the suspension part numbers:

https://www.dropbox.... parts.doc?dl=0

 

Thanks go to ChrisR for providing the lunch and making tea at regular intervals and for his infinite patience, during a long, slow and difficult job.

Edited by leehenty, 08 October 2014 - 09:32 am.

[Bjørge]

Wow ! I'm impressed, both about persistence and willingness !

 

Guess you really would need this mindset of "I don't know by now exactly how this thing will be coming out. I just know that it will." ...which is the most important tool of them all....

 

[dablik]

Bullocks....just bullocks.....but we'll done Lee, let's get married

[Matlock]

Well done Lee 

 

Bullocks....just bullocks.....but we'll done Lee, let's get married

Hadn't you better divorce Dave first Cliff? 

[ChrisG]

That's persistence for you, top work Lee.

[dablik]

Well done Lee 

 

Hadn't you better divorce Dave first Cliff? 

I'm sure he'll be very upset..needs must eh.

[leehenty]

This is a real embuggerance of a job. Eventually, you will have to get in there, as the alternative is seizure and frame lug breakage.

 

Be prepared for the all day job on this one. Once you've done it, you will be greasing it religiously after. 

After two embarrassing failures to remove it, my reputation was at stake.    

 

Cliff, We will need somewhere under cover or erect a tent over the bike for this one.

[muddy]

Sorry for the dumb question, but why did it need to come out in the first place?

[JBX]

I knew it was difficult to remove the spacer, but not to that point !

I managed to remove it using heat & cold strategy :

- a blow with a hot air gun on the frame lug.

- then a few freeze spay inside the spacer (I used a spray I had for electronic stuffs, plumbers spray also works).

 

It came out without too much offensive words...

[leehenty]

when we took the linkage apart at dmmsta's fettle day the bearing was lumpy and rough with noticeable play.

I had already tried heat and two ways of drawing it out, it was stuck solid.

I still had to draw it out with an expanding mandrel and a bolt even when we had freed it off.

Looked like it had never seen grease.

It's a bit of a silly design, why not just have a bush and and a bolt straight through the lot like most bikes.

Usually heat and a rawlbolt will draw it out. We broke the rawl bolt trying to move it last time.

[JBX]

I didn't see much grease on it either, I suspect they don't use any at all when mounting the suspension linkage !

I think I was lucky because I decided to have some maintenance job on the rear part of the chassis earlier than recommended by the maintenance schedule - I like to remove & replace parts to "see how it's made"...

There was not much corrosion on parts as I avoid wet riding, except on the main swing arm pivot but this part may be easily removed.

 

I remember the XTZ750 swing arm had some usefull grease nipples, I guess now Yamaha don't put any to reduce production costs.

[dablik]

This is a real embuggerance of a job. Eventually, you will have to get in there, as the alternative is seizure and frame lug breakage.

 

Be prepared for the all day job on this one. Once you've done it, you will be greasing it religiously after. 

After two embarrassing failures to remove it, my reputation was at stake.    

 

Cliff, We will need somewhere under cover or erect a tent over the bike for this one.

 

 

I may decide to Sorn the bike Lee, tax runs out end of the month and besides this issue has been bugging me since i had the bike, in my time of ownership the swing arm has come out at the start of every season and still never managed to get that bugger out, more concerned about riding it especially as swmbo has more time and an inclination to come out with me.....think the best thing would then be for me to make an appointment with you and bring her down, do you have an approx cost of replacement bits and bobs from doing Chris's bike !! or Chris i guess you would know..

[masterbrewer]

_{A bloody legend a real legend     .............................. wish he lived next door}   

Edited by masterbrewer, 07 October 2014 - 08:33 am.

[leehenty]

Cliff,

genuine bits about £55, but you can get that down to about £35 - 40 ish using only the Yamaha collar and getting the bearing and seals elsewhere.

 

I generally keep a full kit of parts in stock for this job.

 

If folks take it out each year and the seals look at all worn, just pop them out and replace them, they cost about £3 each. The seals are the same for all the linkage bearings btw.

Edited by leehenty, 07 October 2014 - 11:13 am.