15 replies to this topic

[Sidarta]

Hi to all!

 

TDM 850 years 2001 - 55.500km
Needles and float valve, trim the vats, side skirt (all recently changed)

 

Recently I watched gasoline on the garage floor very little, very little.
The engine oil also has been contaminated.
I made the maintenance (oil + filter - internally cleaned carbs and raised the level of the float to 11mm.
The height of the buoys were in 10mm been almost two years.
I set up everything today and the bike worked very well. Immediately noticed
which originates from bit leak in the pipe which interconnects the two carburetors.
Location: in the two joints (ends) of the tube with the carbs.
It is very little but comes to humidify the outside of the vats and after drips.

see the 2 photos

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=3&o=1
So I have a few questions?
1) this pipe has the function of balancing the gas volume between both carburetors ??
2) there orings (seals) at the ends of this tube?
3) anyone has had this problem?
4) someone already desuniu the two carburetors?
5) are two long screws that attach the two carburetors.
Taking these screws, the carbs off easily?

Please you guys need the help.

 

Cheers!

Edited by Sidarta, 26 February 2015 - 04:23 pm.

[Studley Ramrod]

Hi to all!

 

TDM 850 years 2001 - 55.500km
Needles and float valve, trim the vats, side skirt (all recently changed)

 

Recently I watched gasoline on the garage floor very little, very little.
The engine oil also has been contaminated.
I made the maintenance (oil + filter - internally cleaned carbs and raised the level of the float to 11mm.
The height of the buoys were in 10mm been almost two years.
I set up everything today and the bike worked very well. Immediately noticed
which originates from bit leak in the pipe which interconnects the two carburetors.
Location: in the two joints (ends) of the tube with the carbs.
It is very little but comes to humidify the outside of the vats and after drips.

see the 2 photos

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=3&o=1
So I have a few questions?
1) this pipe has the function of balancing the gas volume between both carburetors ?? Yes
2) there orings (seals) at the ends of this tube? Yes
3) anyone has had this problem? I don't think so
4) someone already desuniu the two carburetors? Not that I'm aware of.
5) are two long screws that attach the two carburetors. I don't know.  
Taking these screws, the carbs off easily?  You may only need to split the carbs a little, just enough to release the pipe.

Please you guys need the help.

 

Cheers!

[Sidarta]

Hi Studley!

 

Studley, once again I am grateful for his return.
Simply knowing that maybe they can be distanced enough, so that the tube is removed, it is of great help.
Now that you said, I also remembered that he had seen a post on this topic here at Carpe. I'll research more about it. Regardless, I already feel encouraged to correct the defect. I'll take them apart and will be documenting and photographing. When everything is ok I will continue the topic.
A simple sometimes return opens a window.

Sometimes a cry for help, serves time to calm or enlighten the mind.
Many, many thanks.

 

Cheers!

[Studley Ramrod]

  I look forward to seeing how you get on.

[divvxj]

pictures are good

[Sidarta]

Hi guys!

 

Only today 03/03/2015 I could continue the topic. The two carburetors were separated with relative ease.

 

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=3&o=1

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0

Working sequence:
1) removal of the set trigger choke (2 Philips head screws) and the return spring to the rest position
2) removal of the allen screw "long" (5mm allen key). This screw holds the piece that supports the choke wire rope. It also has the function of joining the one hand, both carburetors. In the bottom left picture can be seen that it carries two spacers.
3) removal of the hex screw "long" (10mm wrench). Its function is to unite the carbs on the other side. At the top picture, it is observed that it also carries a single spacer. Now carbs already allow some movement of separation.
4) The two spacer small acute pin (same size) has already disengage position and can be removed.
5) Rubber T already allows it to be removed.
6) a small spring working on together to equalization of butterflies of carbs should also be removed from the position. (Only plug). Finally withdraws the tube (my executioner) which comprises orings at both ends. At this stage there is some resistance in the separation of carbs. Gently pull firmly and bingo. The two carburetors are separated.
Note: in the steps above, there are no parts that can be designed and fly away. The stronger springs (admission butterflies), each remains in its respective carburetor and untouched. The equalization screw remains in the right carburetor with their respective spring.
I bought 2 orings on a supplier specializing in seals (industrial, vehicles, etc.).
I took the tube with the old orings still in place. Cost of the two new orings £ 0.60.
All parts were cleaned and tomorrow I intend to mount them..

 

 

Cheers!

[RolfieB]

good going Sid.

[JBX]

Good luck Sid !

I remember having disassembled the carburetors on my old XTZ, this was not the easiest job I've done on it.

Actually it was more like a nightmare but as always cursing helps a lot...

[Sidarta]

Hi guys!

 

Gentlemen both orings (measures 6.75 x 1,77mm) connecting pipe between the carburetors were replaced.
The carburetors were reassembled and installed on the motorcycle lying on the stand at the rear wheel. The engine worked very well and apparently there are no leaks. I am currently in phase equalize carbs.
I mounted this device, which prevents suck the liquid into the engine (water and aniline), but confess myself with difficulty.
The level changes all the time, not fixed.

I know that the screw is touch sensitive and the response is not immediate. But think is there any air leaks.

 

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=4&o=0

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=4&o=1

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=4&o=2

I am intending to do the simplest as well as the device mounted by masterbrewer. Use a single hose with oil, so I discard the air leak. If the engine will suck sucking oil
Please, i need the help of you. I researched this link post masterbrewer: http://www.carpe-tdm...?showtopic=8416.
But I still have doubts due to translation.  
1) The equalization process is done with the air filter box off the motorcycle?
2) At what RPM range the basic process should be done?
3) The air filter again only for the motorcycle to 4,000 RPM test. Simulating cruise trip?

 

Thank you.

 

Cheers!

[Studley Ramrod]

Hi guys!

 

Gentlemen both orings (measures 6.75 x 1,77mm) connecting pipe between the carburetors were replaced.
The carburetors were reassembled and installed on the motorcycle lying on the stand at the rear wheel. The engine worked very well and apparently there are no leaks. I am currently in phase equalize carbs.
I mounted this device, which prevents suck the liquid into the engine (water and aniline), but confess myself with difficulty.
The level changes all the time, not fixed.

I know that the screw is touch sensitive and the response is not immediate. But think is there any air leaks.

 

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=4&o=0

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=4&o=1

http://s1067.photobu...html?sort=4&o=2

I am intending to do the simplest as well as the device mounted by masterbrewer. Use a single hose with oil, so I discard the air leak. If the engine will suck sucking oil
Please, i need the help of you. I researched this link post masterbrewer: http://www.carpe-tdm...?showtopic=8416.
But I still have doubts due to translation.  
1) The equalization process is done with the air filter box off the motorcycle? Keep airbox on if possible
2) At what RPM range the basic process should be done? As low RPM as possible.  1000rpm
3) The air filter again only for the motorcycle to 4,000 RPM test. Simulating cruise trip? No

 

Thank you.

 

Cheers!

[Sidarta]

Hi guys!

 

Studley,

 

today I made the simplest model equalizer (by masterbrewer).

http://s1067.photobu...lu76vq.jpg.html
Used automatic transmission oil. I liked most of this model.
I was all part of the morning trying to equalize and ......
At all times gives a different result.
Tried in RPM 1150, 1200, 1300 and 1500, with filter and without an air filter.
If you turn off the motorcycle and connects again, give another result.
Made a year ago; intake and exhaust valves, seat and float needles, pistonete needle latch in the middle position, mixture screw (almost 2 laps) and the bike was great. For the first time will equalize and I can not.
I'm beginning to think it would be better, be spending energy on a given starting system cold, isolation coils, TFI, co1, co2 .....  
Suggestions are accepted.

 

Cheers!

Edited by Sidarta, 08 March 2015 - 05:57 pm.

[RolfieB]

You are warming the engine first aren't you Sid.

The screw for balancing them is awkward to see at times. Easiest way to spot it is shine a torch between the carbs, twist the throttle slightly & you'll see it.

Even with a right angled screwdriver it's awkward to get on with the engine running.

TNG did mine by running the bike, checking the bottles. Switch bike off, turn screw a gnats fart. Run bike up & see what the bottles are doing, & repeat until all's well with the world.

Seems a bit of a pain, but didn't take long to do mine 3 weeks ago

[Sidarta]

Hi RolfieB!

 

Thanks for trying to help.

 

The bike was well heated before and I used a fan all the time, because the engine heat was too much.

As for the screw difficult to access, I did as you said. Turned off the bike, twisted the throttle and made the adjustment.
I installed a container 500ml as tank.
Between yesterday and today I replenished 4 times = 2 liters, trying to equalize the carbs.

It was a long period of time with repeated attempts.
Tomorrow 09/03/2015 I will remove the carbs again and see what is wrong.
Tomorrow is another day

 

Cheers!

 

[JBX]

Hi guys!

 

Studley,

 

today I made the simplest model equalizer (by masterbrewer).

http://s1067.photobu...lu76vq.jpg.html
Used automatic transmission oil. I liked most of this model.
I was all part of the morning trying to equalize and ......
At all times gives a different result.
Tried in RPM 1150, 1200, 1300 and 1500, with filter and without an air filter.
If you turn off the motorcycle and connects again, give another result.
Made a year ago; intake and exhaust valves, seat and float needles, pistonete needle latch in the middle position, mixture screw (almost 2 laps) and the bike was great. For the first time will equalize and I can not.
I'm beginning to think it would be better, be spending energy on a given starting system cold, isolation coils, TFI, co1, co2 .....  
Suggestions are accepted.

 

Cheers!

I did try the same setting to check the throttle bodies synchronization, but it didn't work very well at all.

Better use a real vacuum gauge with a surge damping, it gives readable absolute values.

And it don't suck oil !

[Sidarta]

Hi Guys!

 

Only on 11/03/2015 I could go back to work on the bike.

I removed all the carbs revised again and just did new agreement in the mixture screws.
On 12/03/2015 installed carbs again and tried to equalization.
It's amazing the interference of the mixture screw adjustment for equalization. Now the liquid (the hoses) stabilizes with relative ease the 1150/1200 rpm. But when the speed goes up, the left cylinder (always he) demonstrates + vacuum. The engine is running smoothly at idle and without great swing of the needle rpm. In quick acceleration, revs go up without the motor choke. Releasing the accelerator the revs drop immediately.
At least for now, I will not worry about the perfection of equalization.
13/03/2015 Today in the morning, I made the conference hoses and tightening of bolts and installed and cleaned fairings. In the afternoon I rode about 60km and the bike is perfect.

 

I consider therefore that the separation of carbs, which was the focus of the post was completed successfully. Fix the leak having to separate the carburetors and replacing orings. I hope my English (made in google) was not impediment so that you guys could understand the information.
I also hope that in case of need, one can benefit from the information. To all who opined giving suggestions, my eternal gratitude.

 

Cheers!

Edited by Sidarta, 14 March 2015 - 03:04 am.

[Studley Ramrod]

  Success !  I like a happy ending, well done Sid.