16 replies to this topic

[Favs]

Dear Illuminati

 

I have a set of auxillary LED lamps which are 1x Hi and 1x dip. 

 

My 9er is (55wHID) dip on automatically (no switch).

 

What I'd like to happen is:

 

Daytime riding = std dip only

 

Nighttime riding = std dip only, I decide when I want aux dip on & then it stays on.

 

Nighttime High beam on = high beam, dip beam & aux hi beam & aux dip on.

 

Nighttime flick High beam off = std dip & aux dip remain on, others are off.

 

 

My thinking   is ..........

 

 

Aux hi = simple relay job no probs here.

 

 

Switching for aux dip hmmm a bit more complicated maybe? - use hi beam as trigger to a latching relay (bought or connect my own diode or a pair of relays wired to change momentary to constant), to enable aux dip, which means (I think), that I can simply    use the pass switch or hi beam switch to activate aux dip independently of hi beam remaining on. I am unsure if another high beam signal to the latching relay would cause it to drop dip aux when dealing with oncoming traffic.  

 

What I don't want is any extra switches on handlebars or cockpit etc. ( I don't use the pass function often (hardly ever and can live with aux dip being on during the day on the odd occasion)), but I do often ride 300 miles in a night in all weathers and extra lamps are most welcome when one is trying to make some darktime P ing down progress.

 

Your thoughts & diagrams are most welcome.

 

Cheers folks

 

Penelope Hawe

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bjørge]

What about this - using one relay for lo and one for hi:

 

Attached Files

•  Aux_lights.png   10.12KB   0 downloads

[ChrisG]

I have a 3 way switch on mine, which is fitted in the +ve feed to the lamps

 

Centre position is off

Down takes a feed from relay which is switched by the dipped lights (attached to the connector block behind the left side panel), so the lights come on with the dipped lights

Up takes a feed from a relay which is switched by main beam (same connector block) so the light come on with main beam.

 

Riding in the day I have the switch down so they're always on meaning I show up well, riding at night I have the switch up so they only come on with my main beam because they're a bit bright and unfocussed so I don't want to dazzle people.  The problem with this is I don't have any additional running lights on at night.

 

 

Not quite answering your question but I'd set your dipped one to be always on, and have your high beam one switchable to be on with main or dipped, you only need to set the selector switch once and then control it with the normal main beam switch.

[Favs]

Thanks but I don't think that will do what I want Bjorge.

 

I want to have hi beam switch on high beam & hi aux & dip aux, but when hi beam is cancelled, dip & dip aux remain on. In all other cases normal dip only to be lit.

 

With your diagram if I use hi beam as a trigger then dip & hi aux are on  :good:but when hi beam is off so are both aux lamps  .I don't want aux dip on during the day unless I energise the hi beam circuit. As far as I can work out, that circuit would require another signal for dip to stay on independently of std dip, e.g. a switch.

[fixitsan]

How are you getting daytime riding and nightime riding scenarios as different entities. It doesn't matter with my 900.....day or night tge same lights are always on and i have no control. .... any additional functionality is going to need a switch of some sort isn't it ?

[fixitsan]

How about this......

Set default aux dip state how you want it to be whenever you get on the bike.
Use the start switch/button as a 12V switching signal to drop or unlatch a relay in the aux circuit.

You can safely press the start button with the engine running (momentarily at least)....and until the engine is running the lighting circuit is unpowered.

The changeover from not running to a running state needs some sort of delay before the light switching function of it becomes active.

[Favs]

Where Brown is signal from Hi beam, Red is fused supply from battery +, Black is ground, Blue is supply to aux dip and, R1 is relay one and R2 is relay rwo.

 

Your input please on this being a solution please

 

 

Alternatively....

 

I think I could also use only one relay with a diode between 87 and 85 to provide the same functionality.

 

Thoughts about this too please

Edited by Favs, 18 August 2016 - 08:11 am.

[fixitsan]

Where Brown is signal from Hi beam, Red is fused supply from battery +, Black is ground, Blue is supply to aux dip and, R1 is relay one and R2 is relay rwo.
 
Your input please on this being a solution please
 
 
Alternatively....
 
I think I could also use only one relay with a diode between 87 and 85 to provide the same functionality.
 
Thoughts about this too please

So R2 latches up by itself after being switched on by R1.... whatever R1 does after that does not affect R2 because once R2 is on it stays on.

If you never flash your pass switch, go into a dark tunnel or underground carpark (ones which might tempt you to use high beam in daylight), you should be fine.

I still think the start button is a candidate. Fit one of these cheap time delay relays on the dipped headlight beam and set a time delay of 5 seconds.....have it switch 12v out to a latching relay which is triggered by the start button.... then , after the engine has been running for 5 seconds you can bring the aux leds on by pinging the start switch bfiefly.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231567901540

[JBX]

I've seen a long time ago a commercially available electronic toggle switch that uses the pass switch with a long press to switch-on / switch-off additional headlights.

 

It was before the Arduino era !

[Favs]

Gonna try the one relay and diode (SB560) first.

 

I may also put a NC relay in the feedback loop with a signal from the starter button which would allow me to cancel aux dip so making it controllable.

Edited by Favs, 19 August 2016 - 02:05 pm.

[Favs]

Prototyped this out today

 

H3 is for dip aux lamp simulation purposes

 

Seems to work & I'm hoping you can read my labels..........bollox not at all 

 

Heavy red wire onto H3 tail is feed to aux lamp,

 

Orange is 12v transfer from R1 (left) to R2

 

Yellow wire label is signal from starter button to turn off dip aux lamp

 

Brown - Hi beam signal wire triggers aux dip & must have a diode or feedback to Hi beam occurs (tested with a second lamp in place of Hi beam).

 

Skinny red wire with Brown attached by a scotchblock is feedback (latching loop)

 

I reckon I have Dip aux lamp that requires no additional switches to be fitted to the bike and is on or off as I choose.

 

 

If you can spot any problems before I build this - please point them out.

 

Edited by Favs, 31 August 2016 - 02:05 pm.

[Favs]

Here's the wiring diagram (so far)

 

[dmmsta]

Bit of a high-jack, but seems people are on the ball with my post...

 

I'm looking at putting a power point in/near the dash, and wondered if it would be possible to use it to connect up my Optimate, rather than lift the seat all the time, or put a fly-lead dedicated for the charger.

 

 

Thanks in advance...

[fixitsan]

Bit of a high-jack, but seems people are on the ball with my post...

 

I'm looking at putting a power point in/near the dash, and wondered if it would be possible to use it to connect up my Optimate, rather than lift the seat all the time, or put a fly-lead dedicated for the charger.

 

 

Thanks in advance...

 

 

Yes you can. But it's difficult to do it if the socket is connected through a relay, or else the main relay will latch on. (you need to use a few diodes)

 

Might be easier to wire a separate connector in the end

[dmmsta]

Cool

Easier to have the dedicated wire then...no point over complicating things

[steve27bha]

I've got an Optimate charging pigtail (which includes a fuse) on the battery and led out the RHS above the rear peg. There's a stick-on clip to hold it and also the end of a supply wire to the front of the bike (for a GPS speedo/compass) using a Tamiya plug to match (from Maplin's) shown plugged in here.

The Optimate lead has a waterproof cap for when it is not in use, visible at the bottom.

IIRC Optimate now do a range of different plug/socket fittings so you can choose to suit your application.

 Various - sort 002.JPG   112.1KB   3 downloads

Edited by steve27bha, 04 September 2016 - 10:07 pm.

[dmmsta]

Thats an option...

 

Use the lead for the optimate as source for dash power.

I'm not going to need both at the same time ever, so makes sense - will also mean if I ge IP65 connectors I can keep them sealed