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Help With Valve Clearances


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#1 madmike

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 03:26 pm

Any body in wales who knows how to do valve clearances.Need them done and I don't trust the local garages.

#2 MickC

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 07:13 pm

Get a manual and read it, some feeler gauges and a shim removing tool, do it yourself in the long run you will save a fortune in shop bills.


Edited by MickC, 11 September 2019 - 07:13 pm.


#3 spike240

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 07:54 pm

My bike is the 900. I presume yours is the 900. If not, I think the 850 is very similar to check.
The job was quite daunting for me, but there is some information on this site and if you don't rush it, it is easily achievable. I suppose it depends what your mechanical background is.

Good luck whichever way you go with it.

#4 ChrisG

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 08:58 pm

There's a thread in the knowledgebase I started some years back when doing them on my Mk1, it's been added to over the years and has 900 info too.

 

http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=12948

 

you want to do it when the engine's cold, and you'll need a feeler gauge to check them and a torque wrench to do everything up (pretty low torque settings and the head's alloy so you don't want to overtighten anything)

 

This link should take you to the service manual

https://www.dropbox....2_Serv.pdf?dl=0

Section 5-7 covers taking the cylinder head cover off, the cylinder head seal should be reusable unless there's obvious damage.


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#5 madmike

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 09:17 pm

Ok cheers everybody.

#6 Bjørge

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 04:43 pm

you want to do it when the engine's cold, and you'll need a feeler gauge to check them and a torque wrench to do everything up (pretty low torque settings and the head's alloy so you don't want to overtighten anything)


Heat won't be an issue-before you get everything disassembled engine is cold 😁

It's not very hard, just do it in a calm state of mind and make notes on clearances and shims. Also, use zip ties to keep chain and sprockets in position. Good luck!
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#7 steve27bha

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Posted 13 September 2019 - 12:57 pm

Be aware that the cam cover torque value in the workshop manual is wrong. I comment on this and some other stuff in this post #66 and following ones.

http://www.carpe-tdm...=12948&p=312541

Just read up first, take it step by step, take pix to aid the memory, and zip tie the chain to the cam sprockets as already mentioned, plus only take out one camshaft at a time.

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#8 Bjørge

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 12:05 pm

Also, remember to use sealant silicone on valve cover gasket. Otherwise you'll have a serious oil leak
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#9 Snowbird

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 12:56 pm

Also, remember to use sealant silicone on valve cover gasket. Otherwise you'll have a serious oil leak

But only a thin smear, silicon sealer is great in the right places but it's serious trouble when squeezed out bits get stuck in oilways, seen it sooo many times.


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#10 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 02:01 pm

Never used any sealant on mine, prefer to buy a new gasket if a leak appeared.  I did have some sealant on one I bought ages ago, right pain removing it and making sure none of it found it's way into the engine.


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#11 TKH

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 07:52 pm

Be aware that the cam cover torque value in the workshop manual is wrong. I comment on this and some other stuff in this post #66 and following ones.

http://www.carpe-tdm...=12948&p=312541

Just read up first, take it step by step, take pix to aid the memory, and zip tie the chain to the cam sprockets as already mentioned, plus only take out one camshaft at a time.

 

I did my first one and followed what I thought was the 50nm setting in the manual. Sheared the bolt. Found another page that said 10nm........


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#12 PICARD

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 02:22 am

Never used any sealant on mine, prefer to buy a new gasket if a leak appeared.  I did have some sealant on one I bought ages ago, right pain removing it and making sure none of it found it's way into the engine.


+1.....didn't need it 2nd time, and found bits I used first time ...in the oil filter!!
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#13 gautrek

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 06:12 am

I'm sorry but silicon sealant is for using round baths and sinks. Nasty horrible stuff. There is proper gasket speaker if you really need it. Like my vertical split crankcase joints on my old Panthers. Metal to metal seal and a built in oil tank. Used wellseal and a fair bit of time with a filed. Both don't leak. If you need silicon sealant on an engine something is wrong big time

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#14 PICARD

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 07:34 am

Again, agreed. Whenever I see silicon sealant used here, I assume it's a generic term for a liquid gasket material.
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#15 ChrisG

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 12:27 pm

I used a little dab of liquid gasket stuff to hold the seal in place while putting it together.  It's a rubber seal rather than a thin gasket.


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2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.

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#16 Bjørge

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 06:07 am

I mounted my valve cover with only the seal and had substantial leaks. 1 litre in 450kms! A reassembly with some gasket silicone cured it.
..also happened with my MkI, although less substantial leak then
Bjørge


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