60 replies to this topic

[duibhce Kaelann]

wood the CO setting revert to a default setting if the battery was removed perhaps ???

hmm, I just disconnected the battery last weekend to hook up the GPS and intercom straight into the start circuit. I'll check this weekend whether this reset the CO settings, but I doubt it.

or if she stalled and the clocks reset like has happened to a few of you wonderful, lovely 900 riders ????

Mine did that a couple of times. So i cleaned out the unit that holds the start and kill switches. Cleaned it out nicely and filled it up with grease. Haven't had the problem since...

[wicklamulla]

I did wonder if this might turn out to be TPS rather than ECU. TPS probs are known about on the early 9's but I thought they were sorted by now. I sometimes wonder if mine operates the way it should. There is stuff on the old site about this I think... Dappers, Alan, over to you...

really ??? i thought they only suffered from dicky ECU's

[Pict]

I did wonder if this might turn out to be TPS rather than ECU. TPS probs are known about on the early 9's but I thought they were sorted by now. I sometimes wonder if mine operates the way it should. There is stuff on the old site about this I think... Dappers, Alan, over to you...

Just came across this earlier posting - so Yamaha are only now catching up on an old fault with their safety recall?? Such integrity.

Edited by Pict, 14 November 2006 - 10:57 pm.

[Doc]

wood the CO setting revert to a default setting if the battery was removed perhaps ??? or if she stalled and the clocks reset like has happened to a few of you wonderful, lovely 900 riders ????

Thanks for reviving this post, Pict. My bike coughed while starting and reset the clock and trips today. First time it's happened. Unfortunately it didn't reset the odometer! Is this likely to be a 1 off, or should I try to do something about it?

Just got me letter from Yamaha re the TPS so I'll have to find a dealer to get it done. Guess they've all had some practice by now

[E-njoy]

Just waking up an old thread here...

Since I have the new Superpole cans it seems the throttle sensitivity at lower revs when crawling through town or traffic is slighty worse. Pickup is bit abrupt, not that smooth and with constant load the on-off behaviour is back (or worse at least, since disconnecting and plugging the valve hose).

Will adjusting the CO level smoothen this behaviour? In which intervals you guys think it's best to adjust the CO numbers (per 5, per 10)? Don't you want to keep the same difference as default (to adjust for cooling differences) between the cilinders (for instance go from 9 22 to 19 32)? Or is everybody just guessing wildly? Does this influence warranty?

[dandywarhol]

Thanks for reviving this post, Pict. My bike coughed while starting and reset the clock and trips today. First time it's happened. Unfortunately it didn't reset the odometer! Is this likely to be a 1 off, or should I try to do something about it?

Just got me letter from Yamaha re the TPS so I'll have to find a dealer to get it done. Guess they've all had some practice by now

Just saw this post Doc...........they seem to do that if the battery is a bit low or an ECU setting isn't right (TPS?) Mines done it a few times

[AJ_Blizzard]

Just waking up an old thread here...

Since I have the new Superpole cans it seems the throttle sensitivity at lower revs when crawling through town or traffic is slighty worse. Pickup is bit abrupt, not that smooth and with constant load the on-off behaviour is back (or worse at least, since disconnecting and plugging the valve hose).

Will adjusting the CO level smoothen this behaviour? In which intervals you guys think it's best to adjust the CO numbers (per 5, per 10)? Don't you want to keep the same difference as default (to adjust for cooling differences) between the cilinders (for instance go from 9 22 to 19 32)? Or is everybody just guessing wildly? Does this influence warranty?

Ok... No response to E-njoy on this one... Let's try again, now that an unexpected problem occured:

My Powercommander doesn't work anymore... I discovered this yesterday when I conncted my laptop to it.
There's no sign of life (no lights on PC when 9 volt battery is connected or ignition on...), Powercommander Control Centre on my laptop kindly informed me that there's "no connection". No nothing...
So I removed it (the damned thing )...
And I will drive mye TDM without it until it's sorted - either having it fixed, if possible, or get a new one on warranty.
I still have the Laser Duo-Tech slipons and I intend to keep them.

Now my question is:
How do I map the injection to make the fuel mix rich enough? Without any adjustments I'm afraid the mixture will be too lean with the Lasers... And that's no good...

Are there any TDeeMers here who can guide me to get things right? What settings do you suggest based on your own experience (with Laser Duo-Tech cans, by any chance...)?

All inputs will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks...

[Toraneko]

Please excuse my ignorance gents, but how do we know C2 runs hotter than C1 & if so who can tell me what the temperature difference is ?
It doesn't make much sense to me as the engine is water cooled & being side by side cooling from airflow should be the same. Wouldn't combustion chamber temp's have to be pretty similar as a result ?
Based on that I would expect any temperature difference between cylinders to be minimal.

Isn't the best way ( if you don't have a Dyno ) of checking for correct cylinder temp' & engine efficiency to check the appearance of each spark plug ?
I.E. the electrode insulator should be a nice tan colour. Too white or eroding your engine's running lean & too hot, to dark & mixture is too rich.
Carbon deposit's - you're burning oil.


Is there a fuel injection / engine tuning Guru out there who can enlighten us all ?

[alloypiston]

There is an operating temperature difference between C1 and C2. C2 runs hotter than the C1.
It is nothing to do with the Fuel injection or carb issue, whatever setting you tries, the C2 will run hotter than the C1 and it is to do with the 270 crank. I have had it with a TRX850 and the now with the 900.
Is quite clear from the uneven discoloring of the two header pipes and I had a laser temperature gauge pointed at the headers that quite clearly shown this.

[Tom]

Excuse my ignorance, but does anyone know how to reset the ECU to the factory defaults. using settings for C1 @ 5 and C2 @ 10. but would like to know the factory defaults for them if possible, any help welcome.

[ansmania]

There is an operating temperature difference between C1 and C2. C2 runs hotter than the C1.
It is nothing to do with the Fuel injection or carb issue, whatever setting you tries, the C2 will run hotter than the C1 and it is to do with the 270 crank. I have had it with a TRX850 and the now with the 900.
Is quite clear from the uneven discoloring of the two header pipes and I had a laser temperature gauge pointed at the headers that quite clearly shown this.

Anyway, just a matter of interest, I have actually tried evening out the temperature difference using the settings via a laser thermometer but in vain..

Oh well..

[JBX]

Excuse my ignorance, but does anyone know how to reset the ECU to the factory defaults. using settings for C1 @ 5 and C2 @ 10. but would like to know the factory defaults for them if possible, any help welcome.

There is no factory default for CO setting, as well as there is no "good" nor "wrong" universal CO setting.
No ECU reset too.
Each engine is tunned in the factory with a CO meter.

The purpose of the CO setting is to compensate for any engine built variation, as well as fuel pressure regulator differences (there is no fuel pressure sensor).

[poldark]

There is no factory default for CO setting, as well as there is no "good" nor "wrong" universal CO setting.
No ECU reset too.
Each engine is tunned in the factory with a CO meter.

The purpose of the CO setting is to compensate for any engine built variation, as well as fuel pressure regulator differences (there is no fuel pressure sensor).

Is it worthwhile taking the TDM to a dyno place, could they check or tune the CO settings.

Is it likely a suitably qualified dyno person would know what to do, is there some ideal CO output they could measure and tweak the settings to achieve equal performance on both cylinders?

Can you tell I'm not very technical.

[Tom]

Ok thats fine, thanks for the input, my original settings were C1 @ 5 and C2 @ 20.this was causing a lot of stuttering at low revs. have used dandywarhol's settings,and that has smoothed that problem out. Was wondering if farting about with the C1 and C2 settings would do any damage.

Thanks for the replys

Tam

[poldark]

I took the trouble recently to set mine up using a co meter (MOT station) and was surprised how rich it was running. Having set the co to correct readings, it now runs a treat with no hunting/ jerky behaviour that it suffered before, even with a power commander fitted. I've even undone the airbox mod, as it now makes no difference.

Do you adjust until the CO output is as low as you can get it?

What sort of settings did you end up needing to lean it down to?

[poldark]

I adjusted each cylinder individually in small stages (swapping the probe to which ever cylinder I was checking at the time) and followed the guidance in the workshop manual, eg, blank off the air valve hose first.

The final co reading ended up at spot on 3.5% with dash settings at -9 and -7 for C1 and C2.

When I started, the settings were 8 and 12 C1 and C2 with the co reading at just over 7%.

I had my hybrid remus grand prix/revolution cans fitted for the check (grand prix cans with revolution rear end cap inc baffle) and the power commander disconnected (I think it may be faulty, but haven't tried it since resetting the co) and KN filter fitted. It has been said before, but the only way to set the mixture accurately, is to measure it with a co meter. You can tune by ear to some extent, but it won't be that close to optimum.

Well worth the cost of a Bacon butty for the nice mot tester! (it helps as I used to be his boss lol)

It's worth noting that all bikes will be slightly different in their settings depending on a whole load of things, so please don't just take my settings in case it's too weak for your engine and causes damage.

Is 3.5% listed in the workshop manual as being the required level, or just the lowest you could get to by adjusting?