18 replies to this topic

[OnionTerror]

Hi guys, Hope your all having a wonderful time with your runners now that the warm weather has come back from holiday!

 

My bike:

TDM 850 3VD

100,000km+

 

Recently I took my 3VD to a mechanic to have the valve clearances checked, and to my horror was informed that the valve seats had worn so much that there are no shims small enough, and that I should get a new engine at some point if I want to keep the bike.

 

I have however got several leads on cylinder heads for decent prices, and low milage, one of which however, is a cylinderhead from a 4TX with really low kilometres (im in Austria). My question is would this head function and fit onto the 3VD engine? Ive noticed one or two small differences in the construction, but I cannot tell if these will interfere with the assembly. 

 

I also realize that 100,000+ kilometres is quite a lot, and therefore are there any other problem areas I should be aware of?

 

Thanks very much fellas!

[Studley Ramrod]

Warm weather !   10C here today !

 

The compression ratio is different between a mk1 and mk2.  Given that the piston diameter, cc capacity and stroke length are the same, it could be the cylinder heads that account for the difference in compression.  That said, I don't know if this would be detrimental or not.

The rocker covers/gaskets are different as are the camshaft holders that the cover bolts onto.

 

Worth checking that the cylinders haven't ovalled and I'd recommend getting them measured and honed if they're in good shape.  I'd also renew the piston rings, valve stem seals and gudgeon pin circlips.  Pistons should be fine but worth checking, along with gudgeon pins and conrod play.

 

Check the camchain for stretching, noticeable if you can't quite get the timing marks lined up and the camchain tensioner is fully extended.

[dapleb]

Think I did a comparison of mkI,II and 9er pistonias somewhere but cannae remember where.  The pistons have diff squish areas atwix mkI and II and diff pistonia profiles I think.  Not sure about the heeds interchangeable.

 

Aggrozzle about bore wear and honing/rings while you are in there.

 

Lettuce snow how it goes, will be interested to know.

[OnionTerror]

Thanks for the tips fellas, ive fired off my inquiries but noone has reponded yet, seems like the other head could work. If the guy quotes me a cheap price for it ill snap it up and have a go at it, so long as it opens and closes the valves correctly, should be r8. Shall keep thee posted.

[ChrisG]

Chances are the valves have worn more than the seats, in which case new valves would sort the problem, can't remember how much it cost me to do mine compared the the cost of a new head though.

 

You can see mine had worn really badly

 

[erdferkel]

Hi there,

had the same issue with my MK II at about 110,000km. I had new valves fitted and new piston rings. Bores and pistons were still in spec.

Now she runs like new again.

One user in the German forum states that the head will fit a MK I, but the camshafts have to be from the MKI of course.

 

Glückauf
Ralf

[Sidarta]

Hi there,

had the same issue with my MK II at about 110,000km. I had new valves fitted and new piston rings. Bores and pistons were still in spec.

Now she runs like new again.

One user in the German forum states that the head will fit a MK I, but the camshafts have to be from the MKI of course.

 

Glückauf
Ralf

 

Hi to all!

 

Hey Ralf!

 

Although consume oil, I see that the MKII also has longevity in the engine.
110,000 km and only exchanged rings without grinding of cylinders and pistons exchange.  
So this is not only the privilege 9niner?

Good to know, because my MKII is with 55.000km and is consuming more than 300ml of oil per 500km.

This after I started using the oil semi synthetic 10w40.
Consumption with 20W50 oil (mineral), was less = 200ml per 500km.

 

Cheers!

[erdferkel]

Hey Sidartha,

 

now she is approaching 130.000km and still going strong. No major parts had to be replaced yet (knock on wood) Mostly consumables (brakes, suspension, tyres, one or two wheel bearings, crash parts like fairing, levers...)

Oil consumption has been dramatically reduced. Running 10W40 semi as well. I consider the TDM engine family as extremely robust. Most engines thad died in my vicinity did so because the rider failed to check oil.

 

Glückauf

Ralf

 

Hi to all!

 

Hey Ralf!

 

Although consume oil, I see that the MKII also has longevity in the engine.
110,000 km and only exchanged rings without grinding of cylinders and pistons exchange.  
So this is not only the privilege 9niner?

Good to know, because my MKII is with 55.000km and is consuming more than 300ml of oil per 500km.

This after I started using the oil semi synthetic 10w40.
Consumption with 20W50 oil (mineral), was less = 200ml per 500km.

 

Cheers!

 

[Sidarta]

Hi to all!

 

erdferkel, you are right.

The longevity of the engine is intrinsic to the care of the owner.

The area where I live has an average temperature (colder months) around 20,1ºc.
In the warmer months, has an average temperature of 26ºC.
I'm thinking of trying the semi-synthetic 20W50.
In my town does not have, I would have to purchase online.
The intention is to reduce oil consumption.

 

Cheers!

[OnionTerror]

Thanks for the replies guys! Ill check out the situation with the valves, ill have a go at the rings too, im also consuming large amounts of oil during autobahn driving, dont know when or even IF ill get around to this as i dont have any workshop space at the moment! Ive noticed now that it seems to be using much less oil, and after an oil change and a bit of running, hasnt turned black yet, so im wondering if the oil pump has gone now... Ahhh bikes, so much maintenance. thats half the fun though i suppose!

Hey Sidartha,

 

now she is approaching 130.000km and still going strong. No major parts had to be replaced yet (knock on wood) Mostly consumables (brakes, suspension, tyres, one or two wheel bearings, crash parts like fairing, levers...)

Oil consumption has been dramatically reduced. Running 10W40 semi as well. I consider the TDM engine family as extremely robust. Most engines thad died in my vicinity did so because the rider failed to check oil.

 

Glückauf

Ralf

 

Schade dass du so weit weg sind! ich bin in der naehe vom Muenchen/Passau! Viellecht koennen wir zeit finden irgandwann, und in der mitte zwichen uns treffen!

[dablik]

You will use more oil on the autobahn at constant revs OT, is blue danube still on the airwaves, used to tune in every week driving through to Slovakia..

[Bythesea]

This might be worth a punt:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20fadbda06

[erdferkel]

Hey Onion Terror,

 

I'll be at the MT with the German Forum. It's in the Black Forrest region. Perhaps you want to take a look.
Lars has a thread going here with all information.

Glückauf

Ralf

[OnionTerror]

Sorry for the unresponsiveness my end fellas, been away from home quite a bit.

 

Got my filthy mitts on a cylinder head with about 50k km on it, looks to be in pretty good nik, the guy I bought it off even threw in the cylinder block and pistons for free, all in all set me back 130€.

 

A bit of a surprise for me while driving down however was that the exhaust head wore out on the left hand side and disconnected from the main pipe, resulting in a TDM Harley Davidson. Attempts at repairing this have prooved so far futile, as the flanges are refusing to budge as they are gunked up with grit and etc!

 

Shall post a pic of the new bits asap

Edited by OnionTerror, 19 May 2015 - 08:19 pm.

[OnionTerror]

Been a year chaps sorry, situation here got somewhat grim and i had to bugger off to germany for quite a long time. my situation has finally improved greatly so im back in vienna and back to the bike engine. Ive been compiling a montage of steps on the engine rebuild that i will post when its all finished.

 

So far ive hit a bit of confusion while aligning my crankshaft to the top dead center position. there appear to be two markings visible through the timing straight plug on the side of the case, one with a simple line "l" and another that looks something like a "H". my repair manual fails to shed light on whats going on here and says i should in fact be looking for a "T" but that is none-existant, any chance of enlightenment from you fine fellas?

 

Also instructions on aligning of the cams shafts is somewhat vague.

there are markings on the sprockets indicating intake and exhaust positions, and APPARENTLY these should be aligned with the cylinder head top surface. this however requires the cams to be forced round which slightly opens the valves (while the cylinder is in TDC naturally). any thoughts?

[dablik]

Hi OT scroll down the page, ChrisG has all the info you require.

[OnionTerror]

Thanks very much for that! all the info i need indeed! ill finish fitting the new head them im off for a pint!

[OnionTerror]

after fitting the timing chain back on (with all the dots and engine positions in the correct place) i find that the chain gets quite tight at the point when the intake cams push down and then loose again as I turn the engine by hand. doesnt seem as tight when it pushes the exhaust valves. is this normal?

[Studley Ramrod]

Yes, there are less valve springs to compress on the exhaust side.