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Battery Recharge Amperage Question...

Battery Recharge

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#1 mikehit47

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 12:27 am

As I can see the battery on the TDM is of 10Ah. Can I charge it with a charger that gives out 5Ah ? That would be considered as a fast charger, meaning that the battery should be completely charged in 2 hours... I'm worried that the battery will heat too much or I'll do damage to the electrical system. Did anybody try using this amperage to recharge?

 

Btw, I don't want to fully charge it with this charger. I would like to charge it a little at least so it could start (like 30 mins or something), I need to get the bike to the garage ASAP, the weather worsening here... So I have this deal on a new battery charger, China made but I plan to measure it before buying.  It says that it gives out 5Ah on either 6V or 12V. Raggie RG-C5 is the device.

 

Later edit: I also plan charging the battery without removing it, I can see that I can access the +/- cables under the seat and I got a power source near the bike. Removing the battery seems to much of a hassle and I don't have the right tools :(

 

Thanks in advance guys!


Edited by mikehit47, 09 December 2014 - 12:39 am.

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#2 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 07:21 am

A 5amp charge is too high and you risk damaging the battery.  Haynes says a maximum of 3amps can be used for 1 hr in emergencies, but in general it should be charged at a rate of 0.4amps.


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#3 JBX

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 11:36 am

As a general rule, lead-acid batteries should be charged at around 10% of their capacity.

 

Yuasa technical manual says 1.2A for the YT12B.

 

Using higher current may give... unexpected results !


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#4 gswede

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 05:03 pm

 They call it a:     6V~12V 5Ah Auto bike Lead Acid Battery Charger

so the 5Ah probably refers to the size of the bike battery it is intended for.

Further down on the page it states:

Charge current:  2A



#5 mikehit47

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 10:51 pm

Thanks for the responses

 

I actually bought a German ULG 3.8 A1, got it on a deal with a multimeter. I used it with the 3.8Ah car mode for about one hour, the exhaust started to give some signs of life but it didn't start and the battery seemed to drain again. I left it charging with 0.8Ah for the next 12 hours of so, this device should start trickle charge once the battery is full.

 

Showed 12.02v when I measured it dry, after being charged 1hour with 3.8Ah and the trails (and fails...) to start it.

 

Now I hope for the best after I wake up :)

 

I also got an option with using 2 batteries at once, I also got a Bosch 12V 8Ah from my old motorcycle, an electrician told me that I could use them both at the same time if installed correctly. And my interest is to start the motorcycle!

 

Worst case scenario, I will need to buy a new battery. I didn't get a chance to take this one off to see the year on it but I'm pretty sure it's 4years+ old.

 

Thanks for the advices guys!


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#6 mikehit47

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 12:10 am

Ok, so I left it for about 13 hours charging at 0.8Ah . The led indicator on the charger showed that it's fully charged. Disconnected the charger, measured the battery with the multimeter, showed 13.04V, so far so good. Tried starting it for about 5-10 minutes, no luck and the intensity of the "clicks" started to fade. This was the best try I had on the attempt to start it, the exhaust started humming along with the clicks but didn't bang!  Checked the battery again with the multimeter, showed 12.02V. Although it was like 4 degrees Celsius outside it seems to me that it dropped too much (1V less for a maximum of 10 mins of trying to start it; including multiple 10-15 secs pauses within the 5-10minutes). I re-connected the battery to the charger again and left it to recharge back to 100%.

 

Now I know that I need my carburetors synchronized since the end of this summer but I thought I'll make it to the next spring. Even when it's hot, it needs a small pull of the throttle to have it started (along with the electric start). Another thing I want to mention it's the fact that the shock kills the engine.

 

The how-to when it comes to starting this motorcycle (on temperatures lower than 10 degrees C) would be:

 

Shock fully pulled, electric start, small pull of the throttle (engine starts),  immediately push the shock back, keep it for 20 seconds reved at 1.5k, ride.

 

Now in this conditions, I really don't know... But I have the feeling that if I had battery for 10 more minutes of trying, it would have started.


Edited by mikehit47, 11 December 2014 - 12:11 am.

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#7 Catteeclan

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 07:19 am

I wouldn't touch the throttle myself. Most carb bikes I'd just pull the choke and press the starter.


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#8 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 07:44 am

:wifgeni:

Sounds to me like you need to get the carbs/fuel pump sorted.  If the bike doesn't start within the first minute, there'll be a good chance that the engine is flooded and it's highly unlikely the bike will start once this has happened.


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#9 dandywarhol

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 06:47 pm

Using the choke (shock) and throttle together will mean that the choke is bypassed - probably ok for summer in Romania. This sounds like the carbs are running rich (overfuelling)


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#10 mikehit47

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 08:27 pm

Most probably dandywarhol is right.

 

Now I tried to start it again with the battery fully charged - no go. Connected the battery from a car (without running the car) and I tried to start it for like... 20 minutes. It eventually backfired and I quit.

 

Now I don't have the tools (or the space) necessary to take out the spark plugs and dry them so I left them for the night to dry out themselves.

 

I'll try and start it again tomorrow, don't know what technique to use though... :)

 

P.S: The guy I bought it from 5 months ago told me that the bike stayed still for quite a while, so carbs seem to be my problem at the moment...


Edited by mikehit47, 11 December 2014 - 09:17 pm.

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#11 James

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 09:51 pm

Have you had the bike running ever?

Is fuel getting to the carbs?

Are the carb jets blocked/float valve stuck?

Have you tried starting it with no choke and no throttle, just press the button?

...it's been stood a while...

Edited by Jim, 11 December 2014 - 09:54 pm.

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#12 mikehit47

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 10:10 pm

Yes I had it running, I clocked about 2500km on it. But it started weird from day one I got it, as I stated above.

 

If it was hot: I could simply electric start it with a small pull of the throttle.

If it was a little cold (5-10 degrees Celsius): I needed to pull the shock, electric start it with a pull of the throttle and as the engine starts, immediately push back the shock (if I don't push it back and release the throttle - engine dies). Than I'm keeping it reved manually within the 1500-2000 rpm range for 1-2 minutes until it heats up a little.

 

Without pulling the throttle I cannot start it straight off, but it starts just fine after it ran for at least 10 minutes.

 

For example if I wanted to go buy cigarettes after I woke up, I would use electric start along with a little smudge of the throttle to have it going (and the shock too if it was a cold day) but after I got out the shop and start the engine again I just use the electric start as you would on any normal bike. 

 

I need to look into what you said though, I guess that fuel gets to the carbs, being that I had it going. But I don't know if the jets are blocked or if the float valve is stuck, I need to make some research for that :)

 

P.S.: Another particular thing that's happening to this bike, when I have it going and rev it over 5000-6000rpm, black smoke comes out the exhausts...

 

P.S.S.: In my bad english, choke = shock and vice-versa :)


Edited by mikehit47, 11 December 2014 - 10:38 pm.

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#13 mikehit47

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 11:55 am

I quit. It backfires quite often now (every 2-3 minutes I try to start it) and it seems that my lights stopped working for some reason... I only have signals and the park light (the one that is activated when you block the front wheel). I'm doing more harm than good it seems. I'll have it delivered with a truck to it's hibernating place and there I'll turn it in pieces and see what's wrong... Keep you updated, what can I say :)


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#14 Catteeclan

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 07:31 pm

Difficult to pin point your prob over the net.

Keep at it, you'll get there in the end.


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#15 danceswithmopeds

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 08:42 pm

Here's a tech manual from YUASA, see page 12 for notes on re-charging batteries.  http://www.yuasabatt...Manual_2014.pdf



#16 mikehit47

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 10:22 pm

Thanks for the support and the manual :)

 

I got a charger that deliveres 0.8Ah for motorcycle batteries and includes trickle charge. So I had it covered. But for nothing. The bike probably doesn't even have a faulty battery...

 

This motorcycle needs to be inspected more deeply :D I'll take care of that in this winter and keep you updated.


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#17 dandywarhol

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Posted 13 December 2014 - 07:14 pm

Black smoke = running rich - problem sounds like fuelling to me (again)


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